What thickness of the spacers will fit for front wheels on OEM studs? Any ideas. Thanks!

 

Don’t do it, just do the 20mm on the rear’s

 

4 mil

 

I did 20 mil in the front, have since removed and gone to 3 or 4 I can't remember exactly. The 20 needed a very specific castor set during the alignment to keep the tire from hitting the inner plastic splash shields. The major issue was the fender inside edge touching the tire on the limited track time I did, and this was with -2 degrees negative camber, and my car is lowered on the collars. Looked great though!

 

7mm

 

Where do you buy the fronts? All I see is the rears unless you buy a set.

 

For those who put spacers on the front, how did you deal with the stock lug/lug nuts not interfering with the wheel sitting flush on the spacer? My understanding is anything less then 20mm and they won’t sit flush without cutting down the lugs

 

... Then, simply shave the tips of the lugs! The tips of the lugs are rounded and have no threads anyways! I have a set of 15mm bolt on spacers coming tomorrow, and I know I will just shave a bit off the tip if I run into that problem.

 

...

 

Yeah but I was under the impression the lugs are the issue, 10mm is only .39”, 15mm is .59”, the lug is longer then that…

 

You are confused about what's at play, and how it all works. The lugs of the car's hub ... pass thru openings in the spacer! The spacer, itself ... has new lugs that replace the function of the original car's lug studs, and these are the ones that pass thru and bolt onto your wheels . Now, here is where the issue sometimes comes up, ... The wheels that will be used have "Receiving Pockets" on the backside of the mounting face of the wheel! (NOTE: THESE RECEIVING POCKETS ARE NOT THE LUG BOLT HOLES OF THE WHEEL) .... So, you see ... the real concern is not the thickness of the spacer, as much as it is the "DEPTH" of those receiving pockets on the backside of the wheel. If those pockets are deep enough, they will easily accept and receive the length of the studs that have passed through the spacer ... and are needing a new home to reside. If the depth of those receiving pockets on the backside of the wheel is not sufficient, then the spacer won't mate up flush with the wheel and will have some "play".!!!... The easy solution to fix this is to take a bit of shavings off the tip of the studs to shorten them and make them fit comfortably into the depth of the corresponding pocket without bottoming out . (NOTE: SOMETIMES THE WHEEL MFG DONT ALWAYS BORE ALL THE POCKETS TO THE EXACT SAME PERFECT DEPTH!), ... and sometimes the lug studs may not be perfectly exactly the same length IN protrusion as well. I said all of that it to say, ... sometimes , if the tolerances are REALLY close, you could have a wheel that bolts up perfectly, but then if you take it off and rotate it to different studs, .. there could somehow now have a slight problem mating up completely flush! Generally this is not an issue if the studs are trimmed back sufficiently the first time (If needed at all .... )

Was just looking at the backside of my 10 spoke Z06 wheel that came out for the 2025 Z06, and noticed the receiving pockets on this wheel are DEEP!!!! ... some of the deepest I have noticed! Seems almost like Chevy knew guys would want to run bolt on spacers with the wheels, so they went ahead and made sure there was plenty of clearance room in those pockets! Pocket depth is why with the original Stingray wheels ... the base 5 spoke wheels often, (but not always ...) needed to have the studs tips grinded due to the pocket depth being just a bit shy when trying to run 20mm spacers. Now, the optional Trident Wheel didn't need any studs grinding because the Trident apparently has deeper receiving pockets. .... Long winded explanation, ... but I hope it was understood.

 

Thanks…I fully understand how they work….as you said..not all wheels have "Receiving Pockets" on the backside of the mounting face of the wheel and that was my point.
When I was adding the 20mm to the rear of my Z06 I was speaking with Paragon and asked about smaller spacers for the front, they said the only way to add spacers less then 20mm on the front using stock wheels was to trim down the lugs (which is a bad idea), they recommended against spacing the fronts…so I left it at that. If you are saying that the stock C8 wheels will allow for the extra protruding length then that is good news for folks that which to add front spacers to stock wheels...

 

... And why exactly is trimming down the lugs .... "a bad idea", as you said??? God only knows how many have trimmed the tips of the studs to gain the needed little bit of clearance. and are running spacers without issue! Have you ever looked closely at your lug studs?? ... About a 1/4" out on the tip of the lugs is nothing but an unthreaded protrusion! (Not all, but many studs are like the included pic.) Removing some of this unthreaded material for clearance will hurt absolutely NOTHING!!! Certainly Paragon has more experience in this than myself, but that statement just doesn't seem to hold water, especially if the wheel's pocket requires only a small "shaving of the tip". .. (Which is usually the case). P.S., .. You said not all wheels have "pockets" on the backside. I personally have never seen a modern wheel that doesn't.

 

I am not trying to convince anyone that cutting down the length of lugs is good or bad….I personally don’t feel it is a good idea and choose not to..Paragon seemed to agree… others may not…

 

Not necessarily trying to convince anyone either, ... but simply know there is no issue. I did just put 20mm bolt ons to the rear, and 15mm bolt ons to the front this very afternoon! No shaving or trimming, and no issues whatsoever.

 

Looks nice!