The closing season
09-25-2003, 01:10 PM
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Melting Slicks
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The closing season
I know, this is not a topic I wanted to start either, but it had to be done. Has anyone in Pack already stored their car, or had their last run of the season? I ask, because my little beast is done for this year. The Port side U-Joints are screaming for attention, and since I haven’t been in the mood lately to replace them, I figure I'll wait until spring.
Greg, did you, or are you switching your blood over to Mobil 1 Synthetic? I know you mentioned something about it. I have 20W50 sitting in 'er right now, and debating if I should put in a low weight oil for winter storage, as I usually run the motor once a week, just to keep everything lubricated. Of course a low weight oil will make a mess on the floor, as it will seep out of the oil sending unit, something that hasn't been happening since the Mobil 1 20W50 went in, in fact: I checked the oil on the weekend, and it's still full! I changed the oil almost a month ago now, and I usually have to add 1/2 a quart by now. Thats either good for my wallet, or bad for the motor :lol: I think having a Christmas party will be a good way to stay in the know, and swap the stories of the past summer, of how Mike got 204 ponies :mad and I got 199.9: which has been forever immortalized by Mike N. in the Dyno video :lol: *****. :lolg:
Greg, did you, or are you switching your blood over to Mobil 1 Synthetic? I know you mentioned something about it. I have 20W50 sitting in 'er right now, and debating if I should put in a low weight oil for winter storage, as I usually run the motor once a week, just to keep everything lubricated. Of course a low weight oil will make a mess on the floor, as it will seep out of the oil sending unit, something that hasn't been happening since the Mobil 1 20W50 went in, in fact: I checked the oil on the weekend, and it's still full! I changed the oil almost a month ago now, and I usually have to add 1/2 a quart by now. Thats either good for my wallet, or bad for the motor :lol: I think having a Christmas party will be a good way to stay in the know, and swap the stories of the past summer, of how Mike got 204 ponies :mad and I got 199.9: which has been forever immortalized by Mike N. in the Dyno video :lol: *****. :lolg:
09-25-2003, 03:19 PM
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Re: The closing season (Dwayne 76)
I usually run the motor once a week, just to keep everything lubricated.
09-25-2003, 03:36 PM
#3
Re: The closing season (Dwayne 76)
I usually run the motor once a week, just to keep everything lubricated.
09-25-2003, 03:45 PM
#4
Re: The closing season (mg62)
i drive mine till the first salting...then it sleeps....last year i did nothing to it...did not even start it...year before i fogged it up and put her on stands....
i would just throw in some fuel stabilizer and drive the car for a few miles to make sure it gets through the entire fuel system...pull the plugs and shoot some oil in the cylinders or spray some fogging oil into the carb while it is running until you get lots of smoke out the back then shut her down....that is all i am doing this year....
and taking off the rims....
i would just throw in some fuel stabilizer and drive the car for a few miles to make sure it gets through the entire fuel system...pull the plugs and shoot some oil in the cylinders or spray some fogging oil into the carb while it is running until you get lots of smoke out the back then shut her down....that is all i am doing this year....
and taking off the rims....
09-25-2003, 03:58 PM
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Re: The closing season (mg62)
I usually run the motor once a week, just to keep everything lubricated.
Dwayne, I'm by no means an expert on this (God knows!), but my recollection from last fall's series of posts on winter storage tips was that running the engine during the winter for that purpose is definitely not recommended. Others with greater knowledge should pipe in.
Dwayne, I'm by no means an expert on this (God knows!), but my recollection from last fall's series of posts on winter storage tips was that running the engine during the winter for that purpose is definitely not recommended. Others with greater knowledge should pipe in.
In my experience (and opinion) it is best to properly prep and store and wait till spring. Mind you, others here have had no problems just parking it ....
There was a post on this in C3 just a few days ago ..... quite thorough.
[Modified by 75Rag, 4:02 PM 9/25/2003]
09-25-2003, 04:14 PM
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Re: The closing season (Dwayne 76)
Info I found on the net...
Storing your vehicle
There are a number of things to do to properly store your rod for winter. Doing it right can take up the better part of a day or two. Take the time to do it right. It will make a difference when it's time to fire it up in the Spring.
Gas and Oil
Change the oil and filter so that no contaminants are left behind. Add fuel stabilizer to your gas prior to filling the tank so that it mixes well. Run the engine long enough so that the stabilized gas makes it through the entire fuel system. Topping up your tank will help to prevent corrosion and adding a stabilizer will make sure your gas remains gas and doesn't turn into gunk.
Wheels and Tires
Overinflating your tires by 5-8 pounds will help prevent flat spotting over the winter. Clean your wheels thoroughly inside and out to remove brake dust and other dirt, then apply a good coat of wax to both sides for protection. Put a coat of tire wax on the tires to keep them moisturized and prevent cracking. On a vehicle that I recently purchased, the tires had very little tread wear but had cracks in the sidewalls caused by UV rays and improper storage.
Exterior
Wash and wax your car to provide an extra layer of protection to your paint. For more information on taking care of your car's exterior, see our article on washing tips.
Vinyl and Rubber
Use a good conditioner on all vinyl and rubber parts to prevent them from drying out. There are lots of good products out there to help with this. The best that I've seen so far are wax based and will last a lot longer than most of the "this will make it shiny" sprays.
Interior
Now's the time to clean the interior thoroughly. Clean the glass, shampoo the carpets, dig in between the seats to see what's there, clean the upholstry, and get into all the nooks and crannies you've wanted to get at all year. Why? Well there's no time like the present to get rid of a season's worth of dirt, and besides, when Spring comes along, you want to be able to drive your car, not scrub it.
Make sure everything is spotless and when you're done, put in some cedar (chips or boards) and silica gel to absorb any excess moisture. I wouldn't recommend using mothballs since the smell can be hard to get rid of. A good source of silica gel is as close as your nearest department or grocery store. It's called kitty litter. There are a few companies selling it as the latest and greatest thing for your cat. While it does work great in Fluffy's litter box, it also works great at absorbing excess moisture in your car.
The engine
Gas and oil have already been covered, but there's still work to be done under the hood. Degreasing and cleaning the engine is a good idea so that you can see if there are any leaks that require maintenance. Check all hoses and wires to make sure everything is in good condition and replace any that need to be. The last thing to do is to make sure the internal components of the engine remain lubricated and don't corrode. There are a number of engine storage produts that are designed to keep moisture and corrosion out while your engine is parked for an extended period. Some of these are known as "fogging" sprays, hence the term "fog it and forget it." One product that I like requires that the engine be idling at operating temperature while you spray the contents into the carburators for about 30 seconds until the engine chokes. I also remove the spark plugs and spray a little into each cylinder for good measure.
Remove the battery
Remove the battery so that you can clean the battery tray and connections to remove any acid or build up that may have accumulated. Your battery should be stored some place relatively warm (not hot) and away from kids, animals, and sources of heat or sparks. Place the battery on a block of wood (metal or concrete can discharge it) and put it out of harm's way. When Spring rolls around, it will need to be placed on a trickle charger prior to being put back in your car.
Change the brake fluid
Brake fluid will absorb moisture and needs to be changed occasionally. Changing it prior to storage means your car gets put away with uncontaminated fluids.
Seal any openings
Seal up the exhaust tips to prevent any corrosion inside the system, but more inportantly, to keep mice, bugs, and other pests out. Make sure all windows, vents, and any other openings that may exist are closed. You don't want your vehicle to become a winter home to unwanted pests so seal everything up and periodically check under, in, and around your car to make sure nothing has found a new winter home. The only thing worse than finding a rodent in your car, is finding him after he's been in there for a few months.
Convertibles
If your car is a convertible, store it with the top up. A folded top can dry out and crack over the winter. Keeping the top up also provides one less method of entry for unwanted pests. Be sure to clean and condition the top prior to storage to prevent it from drying out.
Jack it up or leave it down?
The purpose of blocking up your car is to prevent flat spotting of your tires and to take some of the strain off of the suspension. Whether you put blocks under your car or not is up to you, but if you do, make sure the blocks are under the frame and not the springs. Use something solid and stable, like axle stands, to support your car. This will help to prevent unfortunate accidents while your car is stored and when your getting ready to bring it out again.
Cover your vehicle
Cover your vehicle with a quality car cover that allows air to circulate. Plastic sheeting is not recommended as it keeps moisture in and can stick to your paint. A good car cover will protect your car from dust, scratches, and ultraviolet light.
Don't forget about your vehicle over the winter
Periodically check on your vehicle to make sure it's safe and secure. Check underneath, under the hood, and inside for fluid leaks or unwanted guests.
Putting your vehicle away for the winter accomplishes one objective - preserving your car and your investment. Take the time to do it properly. You'll be glad you did.
Hope this helps :cheers:
Storing your vehicle
There are a number of things to do to properly store your rod for winter. Doing it right can take up the better part of a day or two. Take the time to do it right. It will make a difference when it's time to fire it up in the Spring.
Gas and Oil
Change the oil and filter so that no contaminants are left behind. Add fuel stabilizer to your gas prior to filling the tank so that it mixes well. Run the engine long enough so that the stabilized gas makes it through the entire fuel system. Topping up your tank will help to prevent corrosion and adding a stabilizer will make sure your gas remains gas and doesn't turn into gunk.
Wheels and Tires
Overinflating your tires by 5-8 pounds will help prevent flat spotting over the winter. Clean your wheels thoroughly inside and out to remove brake dust and other dirt, then apply a good coat of wax to both sides for protection. Put a coat of tire wax on the tires to keep them moisturized and prevent cracking. On a vehicle that I recently purchased, the tires had very little tread wear but had cracks in the sidewalls caused by UV rays and improper storage.
Exterior
Wash and wax your car to provide an extra layer of protection to your paint. For more information on taking care of your car's exterior, see our article on washing tips.
Vinyl and Rubber
Use a good conditioner on all vinyl and rubber parts to prevent them from drying out. There are lots of good products out there to help with this. The best that I've seen so far are wax based and will last a lot longer than most of the "this will make it shiny" sprays.
Interior
Now's the time to clean the interior thoroughly. Clean the glass, shampoo the carpets, dig in between the seats to see what's there, clean the upholstry, and get into all the nooks and crannies you've wanted to get at all year. Why? Well there's no time like the present to get rid of a season's worth of dirt, and besides, when Spring comes along, you want to be able to drive your car, not scrub it.
Make sure everything is spotless and when you're done, put in some cedar (chips or boards) and silica gel to absorb any excess moisture. I wouldn't recommend using mothballs since the smell can be hard to get rid of. A good source of silica gel is as close as your nearest department or grocery store. It's called kitty litter. There are a few companies selling it as the latest and greatest thing for your cat. While it does work great in Fluffy's litter box, it also works great at absorbing excess moisture in your car.
The engine
Gas and oil have already been covered, but there's still work to be done under the hood. Degreasing and cleaning the engine is a good idea so that you can see if there are any leaks that require maintenance. Check all hoses and wires to make sure everything is in good condition and replace any that need to be. The last thing to do is to make sure the internal components of the engine remain lubricated and don't corrode. There are a number of engine storage produts that are designed to keep moisture and corrosion out while your engine is parked for an extended period. Some of these are known as "fogging" sprays, hence the term "fog it and forget it." One product that I like requires that the engine be idling at operating temperature while you spray the contents into the carburators for about 30 seconds until the engine chokes. I also remove the spark plugs and spray a little into each cylinder for good measure.
Remove the battery
Remove the battery so that you can clean the battery tray and connections to remove any acid or build up that may have accumulated. Your battery should be stored some place relatively warm (not hot) and away from kids, animals, and sources of heat or sparks. Place the battery on a block of wood (metal or concrete can discharge it) and put it out of harm's way. When Spring rolls around, it will need to be placed on a trickle charger prior to being put back in your car.
Change the brake fluid
Brake fluid will absorb moisture and needs to be changed occasionally. Changing it prior to storage means your car gets put away with uncontaminated fluids.
Seal any openings
Seal up the exhaust tips to prevent any corrosion inside the system, but more inportantly, to keep mice, bugs, and other pests out. Make sure all windows, vents, and any other openings that may exist are closed. You don't want your vehicle to become a winter home to unwanted pests so seal everything up and periodically check under, in, and around your car to make sure nothing has found a new winter home. The only thing worse than finding a rodent in your car, is finding him after he's been in there for a few months.
Convertibles
If your car is a convertible, store it with the top up. A folded top can dry out and crack over the winter. Keeping the top up also provides one less method of entry for unwanted pests. Be sure to clean and condition the top prior to storage to prevent it from drying out.
Jack it up or leave it down?
The purpose of blocking up your car is to prevent flat spotting of your tires and to take some of the strain off of the suspension. Whether you put blocks under your car or not is up to you, but if you do, make sure the blocks are under the frame and not the springs. Use something solid and stable, like axle stands, to support your car. This will help to prevent unfortunate accidents while your car is stored and when your getting ready to bring it out again.
Cover your vehicle
Cover your vehicle with a quality car cover that allows air to circulate. Plastic sheeting is not recommended as it keeps moisture in and can stick to your paint. A good car cover will protect your car from dust, scratches, and ultraviolet light.
Don't forget about your vehicle over the winter
Periodically check on your vehicle to make sure it's safe and secure. Check underneath, under the hood, and inside for fluid leaks or unwanted guests.
Putting your vehicle away for the winter accomplishes one objective - preserving your car and your investment. Take the time to do it properly. You'll be glad you did.
Hope this helps :cheers:
09-25-2003, 04:16 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
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Re: The closing season (Dwayne 76)
..... and swap the stories of the past summer, of how Mike got 204 ponies .......
Mike can you chime in :jester
09-25-2003, 05:02 PM
#8
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Re: The closing season (desi)
A whopping 203.1 rwhp ......... and don't you forget it !! :lol:
Just can't wait till next year, see how much I gain with that new set of plugs and my new air cleaner ....... ;)
Just can't wait till next year, see how much I gain with that new set of plugs and my new air cleaner ....... ;)
09-25-2003, 05:31 PM
#9
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Re: The closing season (75Rag)
A whopping 203.1 rwhp ......... and don't you forget it !! :lol:
Just can't wait till next year, see how much I gain with that new set of plugs and my new air cleaner ....... ;)
Just can't wait till next year, see how much I gain with that new set of plugs and my new air cleaner ....... ;)
09-26-2003, 02:43 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Re: The closing season (Dwayne 76)
I put fuel stabilizer in and once per month let her run for @ 20 minutes, change oil before first run in the spring. Then again I change the oil to 30 wt for the winter and use some of MountainMotor's additive to further reduce friction on cold starts. Other than that no other prep work.