Chets LS3

are ccs pads ok for this process? in the 105/205 thread they seem to think not, thats what I was told to buy

0Autogeek.net

Some prefer flat, some prefer CCS. Either way it won't be a big (if noticeable at all) difference. Both types of pads provide great results.

Chets LS3

I went after it again this evening. I took plenty of advce and decided to go to a new
area of the car...the hood.

Started by claying the hood to get it very clean. Sprayed it with detail. Used brand new zaino mf towel. Used brand new orange pad. Made
a pass on half of hood. Backed into sunlight still micro scratches, much better though. Did the other side. I made a total of 2 passes with 105. The scratches are done a bunch...acceptable to where I'm pleased. Here's where I have a concern. I went at a high speed 5.5 and applied decent pressure. I made 2 passes with white pad/205. Hardly any pressure. After this I applied pinnacle liquid souveran and made a very light pass with a blue pad. Under light in a gasstation etc. It looks as if I have reallly really small pore openings in the paint. That's the best I can describe just looks like pores opened in the paint.

0Autogeek.net

Some deeper scratches may remain. Keep in mind your paint is VERY hard, so the deeper scratches may not come out without a rotary polisher and/or wet sanding.

As for the tiny "speckles" in your paint, that's completely normal. Most cars have it, and I'm really not sure what causes it. Some say it's solvent popping, others say it may be rain etching...either way there is no way to remove it and it's on most cars. You just don't see it until the swirls are removed.

Chets LS3

I was just worried!

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

stand back about 5-7 feet and take a look, thats what everyone else see's. We just get more upclose and personal.

Chets LS3

I got very positive results
from friends on my hood results. I 105-205 about 2-3 passes. Put some liquid souveran with a blue pad on about speed 3-4. Then added a thin thin layer of dodo juice. Hopefully I can do car this weekend and post some results.

DP77Vette

I just ordered a bottle of Rejex from you the other day. What steps should be taken before applying the sealant? Clay, swirl remover, polish, Rejex? What about a wax after the sealant? I've been using Adams for a while now and still have a lot of product and it works great but I wanted to try something different especially since Rejex claims nothing will stick. I like that!

How does Rejex and Liquid Glass compare?

Thanks!

Dan Patton

0Autogeek.net

RejeX is a bit easier to use IMO, and way slicker. It's very easy on/off, SUPER slick, and very durable. Hell, I put some on my sunglasses and they're that much easier to clean.

As for your process, a bare minimum would be a wash and clay before using RejeX. If your paint needs swirl removal, then you will want to use the swirl remover and polish after claying, before applying RejeX. No need to wax after.

Z06 Nate

I got one for ya. My dad and I have been looking at Dual action buffers for a while, so for just a couple guys who go to the car shows on the weekend and dont plan of anything on the national level, which one should we go with? I've looked at the Porter Cable and the FLEX.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

http://www.auto-geek.net/newsletters...-07-17-10.html

Let me first suggest there is no wrong choice in random orbital buffers. All the new ones on the market, and the advent of very user friendly polishes, makes the choice harder than ever.

Porter Cable XP ---- a proven buffer was updated with a slightly more powerful motor and more user friendly design. Most detailers have the original and will discuss the years and years of use.

Griots Random Orbital --- this was an upgrade to their original design and slightly more powerful than the PC-XP. Griots stands behind their machines like no other and enpower resellers like Autogeek to do the same.

Flex --- a very powerful random orbital with a forced drive. When it first released it became the Bentley in buffers and everyone wanted the best. It does cost more, almost twice, but you wont need to spend the extra $$ to upgrade later. It blured the line between RO's and rotary buffers. Its a really cool and powerful option.

Now to be honest I have them all in my garage, and go back and forth with them often. With the PC and Griots I like 5 inch backing plate and flat 5.5 inch pads to really hone in the benefits of these buffers. With the Flex (other than the Edge Adapter and pads) you are locked into the factory backing plate and using 6.5 inch pads for best results.

Z06 Nate

Ok, thanks a ton!!! One more. Is there a difference between the 5 inch and the 6.5 inch pads?? ..and dont say 1.5 inches.. Obviously one offers more area, is one better than the other?
Thanks,
Nate

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

the smaller 5.5 inch pads (remember backing plate would be 5 inches so pad needs to be a bit bigger to protect edge of backing plate from coming into contact with paint) seem to work best and most efficiently with Griots and PC. You do need to purchase the backing plate too.

With the Flex you are limited to 6.5 inch pads due to the 6 inch backing plate which is included with unit.

clif

I have the Flex, and absolutely love it! It has made my black vert shine like nothing I have seen before!

Z06 Nate

Good to know, thanks for the info!

My Z is black, dads is red, so you see EVERYTHING on mine. Actually, Ive never seen her without the swirl marks, think we're gonna pull the trigger on a DA PC purchase.

mosimann

Me again. Bought you kit with PC, Menzerna and a couple more waxes. Used it a couple times, the car looks much better, however I still have lots of scratches and swirls plus a bird drop.

Do I need a more abrasive set? A got a few pads, orange, white, red, black and the Menzerna is medium cut (super intensive polish).

And usually how long does it take to polish the hood ? I don't know if I should spend more time and pass several times or just a couple times should be enough. How much pressure ?

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

SIP is pretty abrasive initially and should work in most cases. I would break hood down into 6 areas (3 per side) and use SIP with an orange pad. Use buffer on high speed and some pressure, but not enough to stop the head from orbiting. Pass over each area in several directions for several minutes until the polish starts to dry and flash.

If you then wipe down with alcohol/water mix you should be able to judge the look. If you have alot of smaller marks (called micromarring) then consider same polish and white pad.

Once you are comfortable with look, use the final polish from kit and grey or blue finishing pads. Use high speed and no pressure and really amp up the gloss and reflection on this step.

It is hard to give an actual time for hood polishing, but in general a couple hours the first time is usually needed. From there if you use good wash and dry techniques you might find only final polishing is needed occassionally.

Rich Mickol

I have a 2007 coupe with silver painted wheels. Will this brush work and will it fit under the caliper. Thanks

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

The Daytona Brush will work and gets around most calipers. The big brake system is harder and the smaller EZ Detail brush is an option or moving car slightly to get area on front wheels where caliper sits close to wheels.

Z06 Nate

Ok, so I just used the PC DA buffer I bought from you guys and I still see water spots and swirls. I followed the instructional DVD all the way to the polish. When I was done with that, water spots were still there. Do I need a more abrasive compound? Im buffing an '01 Black Z, so I know stuff will still show, but it looks nothing like the outcome on the DVD. Suggestions?