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Old 07-22-2008, 06:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by roushraven View Post
Is it too late to add to my order???
call the toll-free number listed below .... orders get packed quite quickly.

as for Souveran paste, it can be used on top of all sealants including our competitors line.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:54 PM
  #22  
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Here's a question on PC technique (or any buffer, I suppose)

OK. I can figure out how to do the hood, fenders, etc. But what happens when I come across emblems and badging on the other panels? Do I use the PC right up to the edge and finish by hand (or ignore that small margin of paint around the emblem)? Can the C5 logos be removed and re-attached perhaps, to facilitate the polishing?

Also, what happens when you near the edge of a panel, that has plastic or rubber adjoining it? Like where the roof meets the windshield. Will the buffer harm the rubber/plastic? SHould I tape these things off with masking tape or somesuch? Or stop short of the edge? I guess ultimately, I need to know how the PC will react when it comes in proximity to, or goes over, non-painted surfaces that happen to be in the way or nearby.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:05 AM
  #23  
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Right now I like to use, with my cyclo, green/meguiars 83.

However, some of the scratches are too deep to remove, even with something like yellow/83.

I've read good reviews on 105. Do you think a round of green/105, then green/83 would be enough to take out scratches that 83 can't remove, without leaving behind any unwanted markings?
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:16 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Alaskanpilot View Post
Here's a question on PC technique (or any buffer, I suppose)

OK. I can figure out how to do the hood, fenders, etc. But what happens when I come across emblems and badging on the other panels? Do I use the PC right up to the edge and finish by hand (or ignore that small margin of paint around the emblem)? Can the C5 logos be removed and re-attached perhaps, to facilitate the polishing?

Also, what happens when you near the edge of a panel, that has plastic or rubber adjoining it? Like where the roof meets the windshield. Will the buffer harm the rubber/plastic? SHould I tape these things off with masking tape or somesuch? Or stop short of the edge? I guess ultimately, I need to know how the PC will react when it comes in proximity to, or goes over, non-painted surfaces that happen to be in the way or nearby.
... Very interested in this as well. Plenty of apparent danger zones such as these on a C5 and was wondering the best way to approach them from a beginner PC7424-user's standpoint.

Interested to hear how you guys tackle these areas...
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:37 PM
  #25  
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blue painters masking tape is your friend. You should use this as needed between panels and glass. As for the emblems, they can be replaced but quite a messy job. The front emblem has a peg that fits into position, the rear does not and much easier to replace. I usually get as close as I can, and then use the small foam sticks to clean inside and around the emblems.

http://www.autogeek.net/edgefoamtips.html

If the buffer bumps not painted area usually the polish used might discolor it a bit. Using a trim restorer will help, but taping will prevent this also.

Last edited by [email protected]; 07-30-2008 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by EFNFAST View Post
Right now I like to use, with my cyclo, green/meguiars 83.

However, some of the scratches are too deep to remove, even with something like yellow/83.

I've read good reviews on 105. Do you think a round of green/105, then green/83 would be enough to take out scratches that 83 can't remove, without leaving behind any unwanted markings?
I use to use #83 DACP and replaced it with Menzerna SIP and 106FF for finishing. You certainly could replace it with 105 as wanted and I have heard many offer it finishes up well on its own.

Just remember if you can feel a scratch with tip of nail, you cannot remove it with any buffer. You might lighten it a bit, but no miracles.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:22 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I use to use #83 DACP and replaced it with Menzerna SIP and 106FF for finishing. You certainly could replace it with 105 as wanted and I have heard many offer it finishes up well on its own.

Just remember if you can feel a scratch with tip of nail, you cannot remove it with any buffer. You might lighten it a bit, but no miracles.
Okay, here's another one ( ) - I've got several scratches on my hood that I can't remove. The most aggressive I've used is an orange cyclo pad (on a cyclo, heh) with 1Z's Pasta Invesiv polish. I can't feel it with my nail, and the only time I see them is with a 1000watt light, if I tilt my head sideways.

Do I need an even mroe aggressive polish to remove it, or chances are I'd need a rotary at this point?
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:55 AM
  #28  
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Default Spots on Glass??

I have 3 questions 1)-The glass in my car (mainly windshield but to some degree all the glass) has what appears to be water spots could be acid rain and/or some other chemical from another life--I can't feel them with a finger nail they look like they should come off easily with glass cleaner but as glass drys they come right back--should i take it to a pro and have the glass buffed/polished or is there a product you would suggest ?-----2) I was at a Vette show this weekend and noticed some owners using what I'm guessing was some tytpe of "detailing" spray /mist on the cars finish is this stuff worth buying ? recomendations please.----3)For many years now I have used "Liquid Glass" polish on every thing I own--no complaints-great shine- easy application-I like it---that said am I stuck in the 1980s so to speak--is there something on the market in 2008 which is superior?? Thanks for any help guys!! Vaughn
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Old 08-01-2008, 08:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EFNFAST View Post
Okay, here's another one ( ) - I've got several scratches on my hood that I can't remove. The most aggressive I've used is an orange cyclo pad (on a cyclo, heh) with 1Z's Pasta Invesiv polish. I can't feel it with my nail, and the only time I see them is with a 1000watt light, if I tilt my head sideways.

Do I need an even mroe aggressive polish to remove it, or chances are I'd need a rotary at this point?
Gotta be careful when buffing with pasta (see above)

I would not use a more abrasive pad personally, you might be able to get away with a more abrasive polish. A rotary would make quicker work of it especially with a wool pad and correct polish.

Originally Posted by SAY WHEN View Post
I have 3 questions 1)-The glass in my car (mainly windshield but to some degree all the glass) has what appears to be water spots could be acid rain and/or some other chemical from another life--I can't feel them with a finger nail they look like they should come off easily with glass cleaner but as glass drys they come right back--should i take it to a pro and have the glass buffed/polished or is there a product you would suggest ?-----2) I was at a Vette show this weekend and noticed some owners using what I'm guessing was some tytpe of "detailing" spray /mist on the cars finish is this stuff worth buying ? recomendations please.----3)For many years now I have used "Liquid Glass" polish on every thing I own--no complaints-great shine- easy application-I like it---that said am I stuck in the 1980s so to speak--is there something on the market in 2008 which is superior?? Thanks for any help guys!! Vaughn
1. Try our DP Glass Restorer , it is a glass polish and can be used by buffer or by hand. With hand you likely will need a couple of uses. Diamonite also makes a Spray Clay that is a bit messy but works well on glass. Big improvements, trust me, as I to am using them currently after wife had stone chip and had to replace windshield.

2. Detail Sprays come in two general flavors and I add in a 3rd.
Quick Detailers -- very light spray used for light dust removal and super light cleaning. (Mothers Showtime, Poorboys Spray/Wipe)
Spray Waxes/Spray Sealants --- these are commonly booster products but used frequently after washings and shows to add back in the "pop" and "wow" since last detailing session. (Four Star Spray Wax, Pinnacle Souveran Spray Wax)
Qd'er+ (This one I added) -- these are sprays which add gloss and pop but wont last past a couple of days or a little rain. Great for WOW right before showing car. (Optimum Quick Detailer, Four Star Gloss Enhancer Spray, Crystal Mist, Poorboys Spray/Gloss)

3. If you like LG then continue to use it. They now offer a Spray Detailer which adds some gloss to. Sure the technology is a bit older than the new German Polymers (Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant) but those older offerings (Liquid Glass, Klasse ) are quite durable. If you want something super nice looking, super easy to use, and will redo every 2-3 months then try Four Star UPP w/ Polycharger. Its my personal fav. Just remember it has no cleaners or harsh solvents so you must polish and clean paint first. You can even use it over your LG, just allow LG to cure for 24 hours before topping.

Last edited by [email protected]; 08-01-2008 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 08-02-2008, 11:35 AM
  #30  
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WOW!! Thanks man VERY informative--I learned a bunch---THAHKS AGAIN
Vaughn
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:04 AM
  #31  
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Hi,
Will the Cyclo 4 inch Edge Pads fit on my PC Edge adapter ? Seems like it would be good for spot buffing and getting into small spaces.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-06-2008, 02:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by WGMARQ View Post
Hi,
Will the Cyclo 4 inch Edge Pads fit on my PC Edge adapter ? Seems like it would be good for spot buffing and getting into small spaces.

Thanks in advance
I do believe they will, I would suggest calling Dwayne or Jason when ordering, its toll free and they can give final word but I believe end adapter will work.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:35 PM
  #33  
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Removing wax from plastic. I waxed my Honda Ridgeline earlier this summer and wasn't very careful around the rail caps and plastic around the rear window. Most of it is Wolfgang. I bought some Wax Blaster from you guys. I followed the directions and even tried to work it into the plastic with a toothbrush....Nothing. I have tried acetone, mineral spirits, degreaser, and everything else I can think of. Any ideas on something that works in removing wax from textured hard plastic trim.? The trim is kind of a matte finish and textured so it seems to be pretty pourous.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Brett K View Post
Removing wax from plastic. I waxed my Honda Ridgeline earlier this summer and wasn't very careful around the rail caps and plastic around the rear window. Most of it is Wolfgang. I bought some Wax Blaster from you guys. I followed the directions and even tried to work it into the plastic with a toothbrush....Nothing. I have tried acetone, mineral spirits, degreaser, and everything else I can think of. Any ideas on something that works in removing wax from textured hard plastic trim.? The trim is kind of a matte finish and textured so it seems to be pretty pourous.
http://www.autogeek.net/leatherique-...black-dye.html

or
http://www.autogeek.net/forblacbumtr.html
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:28 PM
  #35  
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The only problem is the color of the trim isn't really a true black. I would prefer not to end up with a different color trim. It only has 2k miles on it.
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:32 PM
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Have you tried rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush ?
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Brett K View Post
The only problem is the color of the trim isn't really a true black. I would prefer not to end up with a different color trim. It only has 2k miles on it.
have you tried peanut butter (seriously) ?? The oils remove old wax. A citrus water based cleaner like Goof Off might work also. Then coat with 303 Protectant for brightening the color and a good UV protection.
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
have you tried peanut butter (seriously) ?? The oils remove old wax. A citrus water based cleaner like Goof Off might work also. Then coat with 303 Protectant for brightening the color and a good UV protection.
I have heard of that, but somehow in my infinite wisdom I thought it couldn't possibly work as well as something I can buy over the internet
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett K View Post
I have heard of that, but somehow in my infinite wisdom I thought it couldn't possibly work as well as something I can buy over the internet
I know the trim isn't black, but I would suggest using Black Wow Exterior Trim Restorer. As long as the trim is smooth or lightly textured, it does a great job of removing the stains and restoring the color and you can order it on the internet.
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I do believe they will, I would suggest calling Dwayne or Jason when ordering, its toll free and they can give final word but I believe end adapter will work.
HOW ABOUT A MORE DEFINITIVE ANSWER Meagan can you chime in i love the edge system for the pc and need some 4" pads The Cyclo offers many pads in 4" in edge2k cant deal with Velcro to sloppy for me will thy work on a pc thanks

John Stig
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