Waxing over waterspots
10-14-2009, 10:55 AM
#1
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Location: Pensacola FL
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Waxing over waterspots
Unfortunately the apartment complex I moved into has some nasty errant sprinkler heads. I came outside one morning a day after washing my car, and it was covered in some pretty nasty waterspots. I washed it down, but it left a shadow of the spots on the finish that you can only see in the sunlight.
I took it to a local detailer and they want to give it an acid bath. That just sounds scary to me
I've always heard that you need to buff them out, however I don't have much experience with it and don't really have the time now to learn. And I'm scared lol.
If I were to put a coat of wax on the car now to try and protect it from further damage, would I be sealing in the damage? Why does everyone say not to wax over the spots?
I took it to a local detailer and they want to give it an acid bath. That just sounds scary to me
I've always heard that you need to buff them out, however I don't have much experience with it and don't really have the time now to learn. And I'm scared lol.If I were to put a coat of wax on the car now to try and protect it from further damage, would I be sealing in the damage? Why does everyone say not to wax over the spots?
10-14-2009, 04:18 PM
#4
Instructor
Unfortunately the apartment complex I moved into has some nasty errant sprinkler heads. I came outside one morning a day after washing my car, and it was covered in some pretty nasty waterspots. I washed it down, but it left a shadow of the spots on the finish that you can only see in the sunlight.
I took it to a local detailer and they want to give it an acid bath. That just sounds scary to me I've always heard that you need to buff them out, however I don't have much experience with it and don't really have the time now to learn. And I'm scared lol.
If I were to put a coat of wax on the car now to try and protect it from further damage, would I be sealing in the damage? Why does everyone say not to wax over the spots?
I took it to a local detailer and they want to give it an acid bath. That just sounds scary to me
I've always heard that you need to buff them out, however I don't have much experience with it and don't really have the time now to learn. And I'm scared lol.If I were to put a coat of wax on the car now to try and protect it from further damage, would I be sealing in the damage? Why does everyone say not to wax over the spots?
I would definately NOT take that approach....In my 24 years as a professional detailer in California I would never perform or recommend this for water spot removal
The only time I provide this is for very very extensive fallout and rail dust removal....Acid should be applied, allowed to dwell for 5 min, panels must always stay wet for this period for acid to work. You must be very careful with rubber trim, glass and mouldings as this can permanantly damage these items.
***First you need to analyze the damage from the waterspots and determine the following before repairing...
1) Is the spotting above or below the surface.
If the damage is above the surface, you should be able wash, clay, polish using a D/A (Meguiar's W8207 polishing pad) and Meguiar's M205 and correct whats left. Then wax or seal with your choice of LSP.
If the damage is below the surface, you will need a different plan. Wash, clay as mentioned above, and then you will need the effectiveness of a high speed rotary polisher. Dont be afraid, with the same type of pad as above W8207 (new pad dont mix pads and polishes) attach it to the rotary set at 1500rpm and for the least aggressive approach try the Meguiars M205. If this works, then switch the pad back to the D/A and repeat with the M205, then wax or seal with LSP.
If the spotting is still there, step up to the M105, using the rotary polisher and a cutting pad #W7207, then D/A polish up to M205 with a W8207, then wax or seal with LSP and you should be good to go.
Dave @ Innovative Detailing
Last edited by Innovative714; 10-14-2009 at 04:26 PM.
10-14-2009, 07:12 PM
#5
Former Vendor
Without knowing whats in the acid bath is hards to gauge its benefit. Heck I once heard the PH of vinegar would consider it an acid and its common to wipe finishes with recent waterspots with it prior to moving to polishing or wet-sanding. FinishKare and others make acid based decontamination kits which might help also if used properly.
The problem with waxing after waterspots, is likely the concern that the minerals in the waterspots might still be there and continue to etch the surface making them harder to repair. Likely best results would to be to use a cleaner wax product (like XMT360 for instances) to try and remove the lighter spots, the minerals as possible, and protect temporarily until you can really get to removing them.
As with any detailer, ask for referrals and call them. Ask to see his work in person, and consider checking on forums for his/her background and past clients.
The problem with waxing after waterspots, is likely the concern that the minerals in the waterspots might still be there and continue to etch the surface making them harder to repair. Likely best results would to be to use a cleaner wax product (like XMT360 for instances) to try and remove the lighter spots, the minerals as possible, and protect temporarily until you can really get to removing them.
As with any detailer, ask for referrals and call them. Ask to see his work in person, and consider checking on forums for his/her background and past clients.
