Rejex...just to verify
#1
Racer
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Rejex...just to verify
I clayed the car a month or so ago. Im getting ready to get it clean and apply rejex to it. Just to verify...the rejex is fine for my crystal red metallic paint (c6 gs), correct. I can also apply it to my chrome wheels to help prevent the brake dust from sticking as bad? Also, just apply it like wax? And, I really dont need anything on top of the rejex like any other coats of wax etc.. correct?
thanks for any input. I really want to get a coat of rejex on the car so it hopefully makes it easier to wash afterwards. Is 1 coat enough?
thanks for any input. I really want to get a coat of rejex on the car so it hopefully makes it easier to wash afterwards. Is 1 coat enough?
#2
Yes but I would hit it again with the clay bar if you did my wax it after. Reject will work for paint as well as wheels(I prefer it to many wheel specific sealants) Apply it exactly like you would a wax, apply a think coat, wait untill it hazes(about 5min) buff off and repeat untill you get bored. For longer protection I would recommend two o three coats topped with your favorite quality carnauba wax
#3
I clayed the car a month or so ago. Im getting ready to get it clean and apply rejex to it. Just to verify...the rejex is fine for my crystal red metallic paint (c6 gs), correct. I can also apply it to my chrome wheels to help prevent the brake dust from sticking as bad? Also, just apply it like wax? And, I really dont need anything on top of the rejex like any other coats of wax etc.. correct?
thanks for any input. I really want to get a coat of rejex on the car so it hopefully makes it easier to wash afterwards. Is 1 coat enough?
thanks for any input. I really want to get a coat of rejex on the car so it hopefully makes it easier to wash afterwards. Is 1 coat enough?
In accordance with the Rejex's direction, nothing will stick to an Rejex'ed surface. That is their claim to fame! So, if that is true, than, after the curing process, waxing or applying anything after that would be an wasted effort. So, I would reapply with subsequent coat when it is justified!
Further, it is also an wasted effort to apply any sealant or paint protection thick, beside being wasteful, the effort to remove the extra also increases.
In essence, follow mfg's direction, not creating unnecessary interpretations and enjoy the ease of using Rejex for what it is designed for! HTH!
#4
I've layered many different waxes overtop of rejex before. Rejex isnt any different then any other sealant, apply carnauba wax over top will bond with the sealant rejex or otherwise, been topping sealants with carnauba waxes for a few years now with no problems at all.
#5
There are different schools of thought. YMMV!
Most people choose polymer sealant over wax simply for the ease of use and the durability factor.
While wax has it place, but it breaks down quickly, if built up, it changes color, and necessitate complete removal and reapply. It adds depth but it is an high maintenance protectant when compare with modern polymer.
We can justify with whatever we do, I just ended up with more free time when I follow mfg's direction. Keep up the wax - on and wax - off! Its all good!
Most people choose polymer sealant over wax simply for the ease of use and the durability factor.
While wax has it place, but it breaks down quickly, if built up, it changes color, and necessitate complete removal and reapply. It adds depth but it is an high maintenance protectant when compare with modern polymer.
We can justify with whatever we do, I just ended up with more free time when I follow mfg's direction. Keep up the wax - on and wax - off! Its all good!
#6
I agree, unless im doing a high end vehicle and applying Swissvax, Zymol or other luxury wax I will always I with a sealant due to durability. Some sealants, like rejex, just don't give the depth or wartmth that a carnauba does. Hence why I usually top it with a layer or two of carnauba wax. But there are sealants that I use regularly that I don't top like black fire, cg v7, Menz power lock etc. and unless you leave a veryyyy cheap and low grade carnauba wax on the paint for months sitting in the sun I dointnitnwill be discoloring, not to mention like you said thu aren't that durable so will most likely come off before that happens
#7
Former Vendor
Rejex is a paint sealant, with no cleaners or polishes, and works well on all paint colors. It can also be used on glass and metal. Remember that with any paint sealant the surface should be well prepped first either by polishing or chemical paint cleaner.
#8
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Did my car with Rejex yesterday....Shiny, shiny...Which is fine for some however, my car is dark blue.....added Collinite 915 today for look I wanted.......
#9
If you use Rejex put it on THIN. Unless you want to look like Popeye when your done (may have just dated myself there, ). Can't speak to if a thick coat lasts longer but I can say a thick coat will take FOREVER to buff off. Black Fire Wet Diamond solved my needs. Easy on easy off and lasts forever with an excllent shine.
JMT's
JMT's
#11
Team Owner
Remember..thin coats of Rejex. The more coats you put on the "wetter" the paint will look.
#12
So are you saying that the proper order is:
wash
clay bar
wash
polish
Rejex?
#13
Former Vendor
Wash -- Clay -- Polish (or paint cleanse) -- Rejex
so might suggest a rewash as polishing due to the dust, I find a quick wipe with a rinseless or waterless wash works but too is optional.
#14
Thanks. I guess I can still use my Maguires Ultimate Polish then!
#15
Racer
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thanks for the input guys. I think im going to split it up into 2 weekends. My bad back will allow around an hour washing/clay/or waxing. Im going to go back over with a quick clar bar again.....then do a really good wash...will probably do the sides and rear face one weekend....then the hood, top remainder the next weekend. Im just hoping the rejex will allow me to hit the car with high pressure soap and rinse, then hit it with spot free rinse then hit the highway to dry. This may not be realistic. I found that it you do this once a week, then you can get by with doing this (without needing to use a sponge/brush) for a couple of months after a good wax. The less you touch the paint the less scratches/swirls. I do use the 2 bucket method when I do.
#16
Rejex
I did rejex on my 93 after washing, claying and it looks great. What can I use when I come back from a drive to rinse off the dirt ?
I want to remove the dirt so I can use Rejex again or a Quick Detailer spray( Maguire) Thanks, habib
I want to remove the dirt so I can use Rejex again or a Quick Detailer spray( Maguire) Thanks, habib
#17
Former Vendor
#18
Racer
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how about using rejex on the chrome wheels? will this enable me to just hit the wheels with a high pressure wash to remove most of the brake dust/dirt since the dust wont stick as much to the wheels?
#19
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I found some things about polished wheelsand rejex when searching the forum, but does anyone use rejex on their chrome wheels? I was going to go ahead and apply a coat to the wheels. I want to do it when I can get the wheels off and wash the inner side of wheel that is hard to clean. Then, the brake dust would hopefully wash off with the high pressure at the carwash. You pretty much have to wipe the wheels down everyday due to brakedust. Anyway...im sure rejex is fine on chrome.
#20
Yes i use reject quite often on lots of different wheel finishes. It's a great overall sealant and does well holding up against te abuse the wheels take, but as with all wheel sealants they tend to not last too long due to the heat and amount of brake dust that they see on a daily basis.