killain

I plan on clay baring my 2003 with a mothers kit in a few weeks, but I was wondering I need to wash it first, do I need to dry it off, or can I just go to work with the clay bar & detailer / lube after most of the water has evaporated ?

Street Rat

Wash the car before clay barring. Rinse. You can leave it wet if your not in the sun. Clay bar with lubricant and wash the car afterwards again. That works for me. I'm sure you will get other opinions.

WAwatchnut

The only problem is if you have hard water that would leave water spots, then it would be best to dry it off first, depending on how much of the car you're going to clay.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

wash -- clay (while wet but after washing) --- polish (or paint cleanser) -- protect

killain

Thank you, I was going wash it out in driveway on a cloudy day, then it's OK to clay bar the car in the garage, and then I am going back it out to wash again and dry with a absorber water. Then it's going to the pro shop for a real Carnuba wax and a buffer.

killain

Hay, I had another question, Can I clay bar the blue tint transparent glass top as well ?

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

When its a cloudy day or Im outside and its not hot with direct sunlight, I just clay in driveway. Provides better lighting. But pulling into the garage to clay is nice too. Remember either way to use lots of lubrication and NEVER grind clay into finish.


you can ... just remember the top has a coating on it so dont scratch it as hard to repair. When I had the lexan top on my C5, I use to wash it well. I then used Plexus on it religiously. When I sold the roof later the guy offered it was "new".

killain

I'll try the clay bar on the top and perhaps I should look into getting a bottle of PLEXUS for it. Thank you for the advice.

c6vetteinhouston

Prep the Surface: The most important part of the entire process. It involves two parts; clay barring and applying a compound type paint cleaner/polish. To really prep the surface, be ready to spend a few hours to do it properly and get the results you are seeking. This initial process will take you about 4-5 hours maybe 6 depending on your pace.

Clay Barring. You would want to wear some type of rubber gloves. See the link below. It really tells how to clay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfL...1&feature=fvwp

When he speaks of kneeing the clay, I dry the bar first then I just roll it up in a ball then flatten out for use. As you saw in the video, you want to lubricate the area you are going to clay. However, it is very important to follow the instructions on keeping the area lubed. Do not use any car soap with additives such as waxes. You want to use a true car wash without any additives or dedicated clay lubricant. Regardless of the mixture, mix with 16oz of water in dedicated spray bottle. This should do you for the entire vehicle. Do one section at a time, about 2 ft x 2 ft. Gently glide, with slight pressure, the clay bar over the surface. It should move like a hockey puck on ice. Glide the clay bar back and forth and left and right and circle as he did in the video. Glide the clay bar over the area for a good 45 seconds, more so or less, depending on the size of the surface area to clayed. You would want to glide the clay bar over the area in a somewhat steady motion, but not too fast or too slow, just a good steady pace. If you feel pull and drag more than just a small spot here and there, re-spray the surface. You do not want a heavy pull and drag because it will streak and mar you paint finish.

After doing the section you were claying, dry the clay bar with a separate towel and wipe the area using a dedicated microfiber towel or 100% cotton towel. I have found that a100% cotton towels work best for me. After drying the clay bar, you are going to want to knee the clay bar again and flatten it out for the next section as mentioned. You will want to have three dedicated microfiber towel or 100% cotton towel (best to use) two for wiping the clay area and one to dry the clay bar. Use one towel for half of the vehicle the second towel for the other half. They will get damp and will not do what they are supposed to do half way. To me, I do not re-wash the vehicle after claying. You can if you want, but really, I never had any problems by not doing so. Next step is to use a leaf blower, if you have one. Again, do not be too concern with any small streaking of dry marks or little bits residue. Mostly likely, if you used good towels, you will have very very little of this.

Mcrider

Honestly, if your car got rained on and you don't know how to wash and clean it, you should be using uber.

Scuba Ghost

You learn by asking questions.

Sixgun95

Why not just use the clay mitt. https://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-au...ine-grade.html
This is what I use, works great and very simple. You need to wash it anyway so why not kill 2 birds.....
Maybe conventional clay barring is better, I don't know. I do know this works for me. Thoughts?

PCMusicGuy

I would guess because maybe 7 years ago clay mitts were still newish?

FYRARMS

Someone actually bumped a 7-year-old thread just to make a sarcastic comment about the OP using Uber? Geezus...

itsonlyairandfuel

There is something really wrong with that man.

449er

Wash the car first, then use the clay bar with a lubricant on the surface of the car

ssg10587

lol it took 7 years but Selma Hayek finally knows how to clay her car

FYRARMS

449er doesn't believe that any of the advice given 7 yeas ago was good enough. So, he repeated it. Now, all is well.