Ceramic Pro 9-H Coating
#21
I just had the full front xpeld on my black Z06/Z07 the rest was ceramic coated. The ceramic definitely helps washing and keeping a good shine. But even with ceramic you will get swirls no matter how **** you’re washing it. After my first wash I had minor swirls and I know how to properly wash. That being said I brought the car back to get the whole car xpeld. The z07 tires pickup so much debris even with mudflaps rocks were getting launched from the front tires at the rear quarters. The xpel is self healing so swirls are no longer a worry. If you can afford xpel go with that. Creamic on my white M4 was amazing. But on a black car i feel xpel is far superior. But I’m also more **** then most. Good luck.
#23
Crazy expensive combination, but my car always looks great. I assume it's the coating, the reflection is absolutely absurd on my white Z
I wash it every week as it's my daily driver, I rotate between waterless wash (quick 20 minute clean) and full wash
#24
Safety Car
I paid $1000 to have mine coated along with the wheels and Xpel on the front bumper. It was so low cause a good friend of mine owns the shop and hooked me up but I know usually just for the coating itself depending on brand and type will be at least $1000 by itself.
#25
Pro
Member Since: Jul 2016
Location: N. San Diego-Fallbrook California
Posts: 698
Received 191 Likes
on
152 Posts
The following users liked this post:
The Yav (01-14-2018)
#27
Can anyone share the price they paid for a Ceramic Pro installation? I got a quote here in Orlando for $2000 which includes interior and exterior including wheels application. There is a lifetime warranty. I want to make sure I do the right thing for my 2019 Long Beach Red Grand Sport which will be arriving soon. As a first time Corvette owner, I have been spending a great deal of time on this forum to learn from all of the experts that take the time to share their experiences with us newbies!!
#28
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2016
Location: MOUNTAIN HOME Arkansas
Posts: 2,687
Received 957 Likes
on
620 Posts
iTom, just make sure this includes paint prep correction such as clay barring, buffing/polishing out any orange peel (maybe not if yours was from new paint shop). Others from the much earlier posts may not consider that putting a ceramic coat over crappy paint will not improve the swirl marks, orange peel, etc. Not enough time to fully explain but take a high lumens flashlite & shine it at 90* angle to paint & see how it is diffused & not a mirror image of the lite. Buffing/polishing knocks off the high spots making the paint smooth & reflects trees, clouds, your face very close to a mirror reflection. The full paint prep has to be included in ceramic application for true clarity. I don't know but wonder if the factory paint should be allowed to "Fully Cure" before applying any coating including Expel & similar products. Remember when we were told "don't wax for 60/90 days" after body repair/repaint? I did the full prep for paint, wash/remove old wax/wash/claybar/wash/buff/polish out paint, etc. & only waxed after but was amazed at the improvement in paint/clearcoat clarity w/o image distortion after. This was on CRY.
Last edited by madrob2020; 01-14-2018 at 10:02 AM.
The following users liked this post:
iTom (01-14-2018)
#29
Drifting
There are differences in the consumer coating that you can purchase yourself and the professional coatings. Consumer coating last up to 2 years and do not have the 9h hardness to them. I am not sure about the one you used as I have yet to use it. Before I became an IGL installer I used Optimum Gloss Coat and it worked great, it was just a weaker coating and did not last as long. You are right though, you can Coat your car on the cheap.
Not too sure about CP, I think guys are charging that for interior and exterior. That sounds right, all in I would be charging roughly the same or a tad less for IGL.
Right on the money, that is a good question about allowing the paint to fully cure. I know for PPF you have to, I think with a coating you should be ok as the coating is an extension of your clear coat and it should have the breathability to allow the paint to cure. That is my guess, as I have yet to coat a brand new within 60 day car lol.
Can anyone share the price they paid for a Ceramic Pro installation? I got a quote here in Orlando for $2000 which includes interior and exterior including wheels application. There is a lifetime warranty. I want to make sure I do the right thing for my 2019 Long Beach Red Grand Sport which will be arriving soon. As a first time Corvette owner, I have been spending a great deal of time on this forum to learn from all of the experts that take the time to share their experiences with us newbies!!
iTom, just make sure this includes paint prep correction such as clay barring, buffing/polishing out any orange peel (maybe not if yours was from new paint shop). Others from the much earlier posts may not consider that putting a ceramic coat over crappy paint will not improve the swirl marks, orange peel, etc. Not enough time to fully explain but take a high lumens flashlite & shine it at 90* angle to paint & see how it is diffused & not a mirror image of the lite. Buffing/polishing knocks off the high spots making the paint smooth & reflects trees, clouds, your face very close to a mirror reflection. The full paint prep has to be included in ceramic application for true clarity. I don't know but wonder if the factory paint should be allowed to "Fully Cure" before applying any coating including Expel & similar products. Remember when we were told "don't wax for 60/90 days" after body repair/repaint? I did the full prep for paint, wash/remove old wax/wash/claybar/wash/buff/polish out paint, etc. & only waxed after but was amazed at the improvement in paint/clearcoat clarity w/o image distortion after. This was on CRY.
Last edited by Innovate; 01-14-2018 at 11:40 AM.
The following users liked this post:
iTom (01-14-2018)
#30
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2011
Location: Ft Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 3,034
Received 361 Likes
on
216 Posts
Got mine done with the Ceramic Pro 9H platinum (exterior, interior, all glass and windscreen, wheels and calipers, etc) right after it got off the truck from Macmulkin with 4 miles on it on my 2018 2lz z06 auto. I used to see the ads and they reminded me of late night informercials that overpromise everything. After they were done im a big believer. Really important if you have black wheels and want to make it easy for yourself to remove brake dust. Worth every penny of the $1500 I spent to get it done.
#31
iTom, just make sure this includes paint prep correction such as clay barring, buffing/polishing out any orange peel (maybe not if yours was from new paint shop). Others from the much earlier posts may not consider that putting a ceramic coat over crappy paint will not improve the swirl marks, orange peel, etc. Not enough time to fully explain but take a high lumens flashlite & shine it at 90* angle to paint & see how it is diffused & not a mirror image of the lite. Buffing/polishing knocks off the high spots making the paint smooth & reflects trees, clouds, your face very close to a mirror reflection. The full paint prep has to be included in ceramic application for true clarity. I don't know but wonder if the factory paint should be allowed to "Fully Cure" before applying any coating including Expel & similar products. Remember when we were told "don't wax for 60/90 days" after body repair/repaint? I did the full prep for paint, wash/remove old wax/wash/claybar/wash/buff/polish out paint, etc. & only waxed after but was amazed at the improvement in paint/clearcoat clarity w/o image distortion after. This was on CRY.
#32
There are differences in the consumer coating that you can purchase yourself and the professional coatings. Consumer coating last up to 2 years and do not have the 9h hardness to them. I am not sure about the one you used as I have yet to use it. Before I became an IGL installer I used Optimum Gloss Coat and it worked great, it was just a weaker coating and did not last as long. You are right though, you can Coat your car on the cheap.
Not too sure about CP, I think guys are charging that for interior and exterior. That sounds right, all in I would be charging roughly the same or a tad less for IGL.
Right on the money, that is a good question about allowing the paint to fully cure. I know for PPF you have to, I think with a coating you should be ok as the coating is an extension of your clear coat and it should have the breathability to allow the paint to cure. That is my guess, as I have yet to coat a brand new within 60 day car lol.
Not too sure about CP, I think guys are charging that for interior and exterior. That sounds right, all in I would be charging roughly the same or a tad less for IGL.
Right on the money, that is a good question about allowing the paint to fully cure. I know for PPF you have to, I think with a coating you should be ok as the coating is an extension of your clear coat and it should have the breathability to allow the paint to cure. That is my guess, as I have yet to coat a brand new within 60 day car lol.
#33
Safety Car
I have xPel on the front half of the corvette and below the crease on the doors and on the rear brake duct area. The remainder of the car I have coated myself with CQuartz.
After watching my installer do 2 Corvettes for me and my wife's Mini Convertible I would never ever try and install a wrap myself. Have you seen self applied tint on a cheap cars rear window? That is likely how mine would end up if I did it.
However Ceramic Coating is easier to apply than a wax or sealant is. You have the application step but no buffing off other than a light wipe. Now you absolutely do not want to coat a car that is not as good as you can get it. So if you are looking at a 10 hour day, 9 of those hours are used to prep the car properly. Wash it. clay bar it. Polish and paint correct it. And do it well. Then the actual application of the coating including waiting for it to flash (I move to a new section, do it and then return to the old section after it flashes to wipe it down) takes less than an hour. The only key is applying it as smoothly as possible and then after it flashes lightly wipe it down to remove high spots that will dry darker if not knocked down. If you can wax a car, you certainly can apply ceramic coating. Now if you don't want to spend the time necessary then pay to have it done. I have 3 relatively new cars, so was able to do the prep and application on each in about 4 hours. Do note that 2 of those cars had xPel on the front half so I was only coating the non wrapped portions of the car. On my 17 ATS I did that entire car over two 3 hour sessions. Total cost of the ceramic coating was $90 for the CQuartz and $60 for the MD Wheel Coat which I used on the outside of the Caddy and Mini wheels and the barrels and spokes of my Morr VS52 monoblocks and on my Forgeline AR-1 monoblocks.
I suppose I could have coated the xPel wrapped surfaces but I normally do not wear belts and suspenders at the same time so have not done that. Admittedly the coating is a sealant and the xPel is a protective layer, but I am happy with each doing its own thing.
After watching my installer do 2 Corvettes for me and my wife's Mini Convertible I would never ever try and install a wrap myself. Have you seen self applied tint on a cheap cars rear window? That is likely how mine would end up if I did it.
However Ceramic Coating is easier to apply than a wax or sealant is. You have the application step but no buffing off other than a light wipe. Now you absolutely do not want to coat a car that is not as good as you can get it. So if you are looking at a 10 hour day, 9 of those hours are used to prep the car properly. Wash it. clay bar it. Polish and paint correct it. And do it well. Then the actual application of the coating including waiting for it to flash (I move to a new section, do it and then return to the old section after it flashes to wipe it down) takes less than an hour. The only key is applying it as smoothly as possible and then after it flashes lightly wipe it down to remove high spots that will dry darker if not knocked down. If you can wax a car, you certainly can apply ceramic coating. Now if you don't want to spend the time necessary then pay to have it done. I have 3 relatively new cars, so was able to do the prep and application on each in about 4 hours. Do note that 2 of those cars had xPel on the front half so I was only coating the non wrapped portions of the car. On my 17 ATS I did that entire car over two 3 hour sessions. Total cost of the ceramic coating was $90 for the CQuartz and $60 for the MD Wheel Coat which I used on the outside of the Caddy and Mini wheels and the barrels and spokes of my Morr VS52 monoblocks and on my Forgeline AR-1 monoblocks.
I suppose I could have coated the xPel wrapped surfaces but I normally do not wear belts and suspenders at the same time so have not done that. Admittedly the coating is a sealant and the xPel is a protective layer, but I am happy with each doing its own thing.
#34
Can anyone share the price they paid for a Ceramic Pro installation? I got a quote here in Orlando for $2000 which includes interior and exterior including wheels application. There is a lifetime warranty. I want to make sure I do the right thing for my 2019 Long Beach Red Grand Sport which will be arriving soon. As a first time Corvette owner, I have been spending a great deal of time on this forum to learn from all of the experts that take the time to share their experiences with us newbies!!
The following users liked this post:
iTom (01-14-2018)
#35
My guy did say he was using the 9H, but I need to go back and ask how many coats he is going to put on. I'm not afraid to put in the work as PKINCY suggests, I'm just not confident I have the expertise to clay bar and buff out a brand new car. So maybe paying the $2K is the best way to go.
#36
Drifting
I unfortunately do not own one currently, maybe later this year.
Ceramic Pro? The put a ton of coats on to reach the 9H hardness I think, $1700 is not too bad.
Ceramic Pro is not the be all-end all. Shop around for other coatings, IGL Coatings are newish and great in the market, then Opti-Coat Pro. Those for interior/exterior should not cost $2k, it really is up to the detailer though. One can offer the same package $500 cheaper than the other on what all you want. Shoot, I wish you were close to SC.
My quote on IGL Quartz+
Car: $600 (Wash, decontaminate chemically and mechanically, 1-Step Polish, paint prep for coating)
Wheels, inner barrels and faces: $300 (Calipers as well)
Windows: $150
Headlights: $100
Total: $1150
My guy did say he was using the 9H, but I need to go back and ask how many coats he is going to put on. I'm not afraid to put in the work as PKINCY suggests, I'm just not confident I have the expertise to clay bar and buff out a brand new car. So maybe paying the $2K is the best way to go.
My quote on IGL Quartz+
Car: $600 (Wash, decontaminate chemically and mechanically, 1-Step Polish, paint prep for coating)
Wheels, inner barrels and faces: $300 (Calipers as well)
Windows: $150
Headlights: $100
Total: $1150
#37
I got mine ceramic coated with a German product called Nanolex Kenotek. the car looks more shiny and seems to get less scratches. Ceramic coating is a great idea for dark colored cars especially black.
Last edited by MrBlackZ06; 01-15-2018 at 03:03 AM.
#38
Your black car looks awesome!! I love black. For the last 20 years, everyone of my cars have been black. My LBR 2019 GS will be my first car with another color in a long, long time.
#39
Moderator
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: West MI
Posts: 27,703
Received 3,622 Likes
on
1,741 Posts
CF Banner Relay Captain
West MI & JAX/NE Florida
Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17, '21
Ceramic Pro 9H on all of the exterior, including a paint correction, costs depends on your location and what level package you get. ($900-1500)
Two summers later---no waxing needed, no swirl marks, scratching etc. WELL worth the $ IMO. Rarely have to wash, keeps brake dust off and repels water. The Black trim on my car really pops. I also have expel on the front and ground effects under the ceramic pro because Michigan roads were starting to add a few chips.
Two summers later---no waxing needed, no swirl marks, scratching etc. WELL worth the $ IMO. Rarely have to wash, keeps brake dust off and repels water. The Black trim on my car really pops. I also have expel on the front and ground effects under the ceramic pro because Michigan roads were starting to add a few chips.