Kamikaze Overcoat v HydroSilex Recharge v 22ple VS1 Final Coat
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Kamikaze Overcoat v HydroSilex Recharge v 22ple VS1 Final Coat
This particular idea sprang from the mind of an Autopia user; booster comparison on bare paint. This is the kinda thing that happens when guy from NE Ohio travels to Arizona for Barrett-Jackson and meets another Autopian for lunch at a Chinese place; I`m sure my wife was thrilled by our car-centric observations/discussions but she was later placated when we went to Barrett-Jackson and saw many 1970 Chevelle SS 454`s that we can not afford. Budgetplan and all...but she was just happy to be out of the cold in OH in January. Trouble is, we ended up in AZ on a rainy, 58 degree day; where`s the dry heat everyone talks about out there?
Anyway, started as testing Kamikaze Overcoat v 22ple VS1 Final Coat on top of McKees 37 Paint Coating V2. The the question was raised on how would we know when the boosters wore off and the coating was doing the protecting/self-cleaning? So, we nixed the McKees Paint Coating underneath and decided to test on bare paint.
Prep: This was a vehicle I compounded/polished in November, coated with Gyeon Prime. Then added CanCoat on top of Prime. Then topped with IGL Premier. Compounded and polished the hood to remove the combo from all areas except under the tape because I thought it would be fun to leave the combo under those two strips because...well, just because. Used Flex 3401 and Orange Force Pad w/ M101 followed by HD Polish+ on White Force Pad; boy, I really like HD Polish+...not a lot of cut but just really nice to use and I`ve also always liked the HD/3D bottles and labels.
Kamikaze Overcoat instructions for application on bare paint:
"And for an advanced method (ONLY on non-coated cars), you can apply OVER COAT by machine using a soft finishing pad, and slow machine speed. This application method will increase durability, and will do a better job of filling in fine hairline defects."
Used the GG6, LC Country Blue Flat Finishing Pad; spritzed with Overcoat, ran at speed 3 for about 3 passes, buffed off.
For the HydroSilex Recharge (which was added to the test cuz it just happened to show up in time) and the VS1 I sprayed onto microfiber applicator and applied up and down, side to side motions to insure even coverage and then buffed.
I`ll see this truck pretty much every day, it gets moderate use but nothing heavy like some of our other fleet vehicles. Will likely waterless/rinseless wash it with McKees 914 when it gets really nasty, or bucket wash the hood if horribley nasty.
I`m so tired of looking at this red Ford paint I really couldn`t discern any gloss differences once I removed the tape. At first I thought slickness ranked
1. 22ple VS1
2. Kamikaze Overcoat
3. HydroSilex Recharge
...but then when i pulled the tape off and ran towel lightly (Rag Company Creature) across the entire hood I really didn`t notice a difference from section to section. This was immediately after application in a 62 degree F warehouse so we`ll see tomorrow how it as as it cures. I`ll be here working on another one of our new fleet vans until likely 10pm tonite so the temperature will stay around 62 up until then, then likely drop to 50 degrees by the time we hit the 24hr mark after application. Vehicle won`t be going anywhere until Monday at the earliest.
Hood:
Recharge:
Kamikaze Overcoat:
22ple VS1 Final Coat:
Anyway, started as testing Kamikaze Overcoat v 22ple VS1 Final Coat on top of McKees 37 Paint Coating V2. The the question was raised on how would we know when the boosters wore off and the coating was doing the protecting/self-cleaning? So, we nixed the McKees Paint Coating underneath and decided to test on bare paint.
Prep: This was a vehicle I compounded/polished in November, coated with Gyeon Prime. Then added CanCoat on top of Prime. Then topped with IGL Premier. Compounded and polished the hood to remove the combo from all areas except under the tape because I thought it would be fun to leave the combo under those two strips because...well, just because. Used Flex 3401 and Orange Force Pad w/ M101 followed by HD Polish+ on White Force Pad; boy, I really like HD Polish+...not a lot of cut but just really nice to use and I`ve also always liked the HD/3D bottles and labels.
Kamikaze Overcoat instructions for application on bare paint:
"And for an advanced method (ONLY on non-coated cars), you can apply OVER COAT by machine using a soft finishing pad, and slow machine speed. This application method will increase durability, and will do a better job of filling in fine hairline defects."
Used the GG6, LC Country Blue Flat Finishing Pad; spritzed with Overcoat, ran at speed 3 for about 3 passes, buffed off.
For the HydroSilex Recharge (which was added to the test cuz it just happened to show up in time) and the VS1 I sprayed onto microfiber applicator and applied up and down, side to side motions to insure even coverage and then buffed.
I`ll see this truck pretty much every day, it gets moderate use but nothing heavy like some of our other fleet vehicles. Will likely waterless/rinseless wash it with McKees 914 when it gets really nasty, or bucket wash the hood if horribley nasty.
I`m so tired of looking at this red Ford paint I really couldn`t discern any gloss differences once I removed the tape. At first I thought slickness ranked
1. 22ple VS1
2. Kamikaze Overcoat
3. HydroSilex Recharge
...but then when i pulled the tape off and ran towel lightly (Rag Company Creature) across the entire hood I really didn`t notice a difference from section to section. This was immediately after application in a 62 degree F warehouse so we`ll see tomorrow how it as as it cures. I`ll be here working on another one of our new fleet vans until likely 10pm tonite so the temperature will stay around 62 up until then, then likely drop to 50 degrees by the time we hit the 24hr mark after application. Vehicle won`t be going anywhere until Monday at the earliest.
Hood:
Recharge:
Kamikaze Overcoat:
22ple VS1 Final Coat:
Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 02-03-2018 at 03:18 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Excellent review. The more I learn about detailing the less difference I can see in 99% of the products on the market. But my wallet can tell.
Side note, I been trying for over a month to obtain MSDS's on the various new "Nano" or "Ceramic" sprays. Not one company I contacted will provide me with one. My gut is telling me they are all basically the same at this point.
Side note, I been trying for over a month to obtain MSDS's on the various new "Nano" or "Ceramic" sprays. Not one company I contacted will provide me with one. My gut is telling me they are all basically the same at this point.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Gtechniq Liquid Crystal C2V3
22ple Final Coat VS1
22ple Finitura
Gyeon Cure
IGL Premier
Kamikaze Overcoat
TAC Systems Moonlight
HydroSilex Recharge
Nanolex SiFinish
In general they all add some gloss and slickness and some apply easier than others. Depending on climate and just what you want out of something like these products, a few are a notch or 2 above in one particular aspect. If that's a handy attribute for your particular situation, then the differentiation, however slight, is worth consideration. If not, no worries on what ya choose.
Line up cars with the individual products and I'd imagine anyone would be hard pressed to tell a difference. Might be able to tell one from another based on feel, to the extent of this is slicker than that.
Side note, I been trying for over a month to obtain MSDS's on the various new "Nano" or "Ceramic" sprays. Not one company I contacted will provide me with one. My gut is telling me they are all basically the same at this point.
Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 02-03-2018 at 08:15 PM.
#4
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On several cars we do washes for, we decided to try the same products. I saw a discernible difference between Kamikaze Overcoat and the HydroSilex, and Polish Angel High Gloss was better than both.
#5
Melting Slicks
enjoy reading these threads . look up prices of products and just shake my head . still can't bring myself to buy an orbital machine as i think i'd do more harm than good with it and the various ''strength'' pad applicators blow my mind , i'd never be using the correct one for the product . guess i better stick with hand applied ''adams'' stuff . your write ups and pix are always amazing , thanks , sir . . . peace
#6
Le Mans Master
enjoy reading these threads . look up prices of products and just shake my head . still can't bring myself to buy an orbital machine as i think i'd do more harm than good with it and the various ''strength'' pad applicators blow my mind , i'd never be using the correct one for the product . guess i better stick with hand applied ''adams'' stuff . your write ups and pix are always amazing , thanks , sir . . . peace
#7
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
HydroSilex Recharge was offering a "free" bottle, just pay $10 for shipping. The link was floating around on Autopia forum last week. This is the only reason I bought. Plan on trying it on my wife's Expedition which is almost new and a deep red. Will do a side by side comparison on one side of the hood and see how it compares to plain ole wax in a month or two.
Recharge sure does make some lofty claims on the label. In Gyeon-speak, it's Cure, Wetcoat and CanCoat all in a single bottle, for use in a variety of ways on a variety of surfaces including ?wood?.
FWIW, a couple of hours after application, it was definitely less slick than the other two. We'll see come Monday after 48hrs of curing.
Here in NE Ohio, self cleaning hydrophobics are king for daily driven cars and that's where Overcoat excels; see greater longevity out of Overcoat as well compared to PA High Gloss. The VS1 is a nice product as well, preferable to Gtechniq C2V3 for me.
Interesting how, over the last few months, products in the coating topper/booster arena have are often pushed/marketed in more of a 'stand alone' product range as well.
I don't really have much faith that the HydroSilex will be anything truly exceptional but for the $10 deal figrd why not? Willing to be surprised though.
Last edited by BudgetPlan1; 02-04-2018 at 10:09 AM.
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#9
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Inconclusive; a few weeks ago noticed the entire good felt rough like it had been covered with some sticky contamination.
Tried a few things to 'uncontaminate' it but the only places it felt smooth after was the Gyeon Prime + CanCoat dividing lines I had taped off.
Don't really have the time now that pool season is here to watch/maintain much so the only thing I really took out if it (IMO) was that while Overcoat and VS1 were always better performing than HydroSilex, the HydroSilex is likely a solid product in its own right, certainly not Topcoat F11 mumbo jumbo type, mostly hype product.
More details about the endgame
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...rcoat-vs1.html
Tried a few things to 'uncontaminate' it but the only places it felt smooth after was the Gyeon Prime + CanCoat dividing lines I had taped off.
Don't really have the time now that pool season is here to watch/maintain much so the only thing I really took out if it (IMO) was that while Overcoat and VS1 were always better performing than HydroSilex, the HydroSilex is likely a solid product in its own right, certainly not Topcoat F11 mumbo jumbo type, mostly hype product.
More details about the endgame
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...rcoat-vs1.html