0EricAvalonKing

I'll let someone else comment on the brands.

For the multiple coats, it will depend on the manufacturer, for some more coats would be recommended for some less. With our coating, Armor Shield IX, I wouldn't go over 3 layers as it is quite thick inherently. I think also fair to say, that for most manufacturers doing multiple coats up to a maximum recommended number is both beneficial and improves the depth of the finish.

vader86

One other question I had about flashing times. I gather that different brands will do it at different times. I waited until the blackfire dried itself into a "rainbow" look, usually took just a couple minutes in the 70F garage. Then I just wiped it smooth. I didn't know if I was supposed to let it sit any further length of time before using the MF to wipe it clear.

0EricAvalonKing

It is true that flash times will depend between manufacturers according to the temperature but yeah if you can see the rainbow effect that would be the best indicator that it is ready to wipe and quickly buff with a microfiber cloth.

Underachieved

This thread needs a sticky. Props to EAK for taking the time.

twiget

Lot's of great info in this thread, thanks @vader86 for asking the questions.

I've got a couple more questions though.

1. Can we use ceramic coatings on glass, the CF aero bits, head & tail lights ect...?

2. My car's got Carbon Flash racing stripes and I don't want a glossy shine on them. I'm going to apply some painters tape to the stripes before I do the coating. Is there a non-shiny alternative to ceramic coats for the stripes?

3. What about wheel coatings? Are they heat sensitive? I assume the best way to do those is to remove the wheels from the car?

vader86

I use Rain-X or a McKees 37 glass ceramic coating, they basically work the same. Work about the same.

Gyeon Rim is formulated for wheels, and yes remove the wheel from the car so you get it spotless and can get into the nooks easier.