Sixgun95

If I use a clay mitt on the car to remove the contaminants, is polishing necessary prior to applying a sealant such as SiO2? Assuming surface has no swirl marks.

FYRARMS

Polishing is never necessary. It is optional. However, there is no other way to get your paint's finish defect-free and glossy. Any time you touch the surface of the paint, you risk adding micro-scratches, light marring, smudges, etc. Remember, claying is an abrasive process. Even using lots of lubrication, you are rubbing the clay on the paint. Personally, I always want my paint to be as perfect as possible before adding any protection (wax, sealant, coating). Therefore I always polish after I clay. And I only clay when absolutely necessary. That usually means only once per year on my daily driver. SiO2 is a durable coating, and will "lock in" any defects you don't polish out ahead of time. I highly recommend taking the extra time and effort to polish your paint first. Then wipe the entire car down with a mild IPA solution or dedicated pre-coating spray to remove any oils or dust the polish may have left behind. That will give you a very clean and defect-free surface to apply the coating to.

vader86

Necessary, no. Preferred, at least using a finishing polish, yes.

Paint just needs to be clean.

CamarosRus

FYRARMS, Will you write (again) your go to :

1) Correction Polish on What Size of What Pad on What Machine
2) Finish Polish on What Size What Specific Pad
3) Sealant Product on What Specific Pad
4) What SiO2 Spray Product
5) Assuming We are going to Ceramic Coat ???

Thanks, Chuck S Auburn,WA

vader86

If you are going to ceramic coat, then you dont need a sealant, ceramic is the coating. SiO2 spray sealants are either sacrificial layers on top of the ceramic coating, to make it last a little longer, or standalone spray-on over bare paint for someone who doesnt want to ceramic coat or wax.

FYRARMS

I can't recommend any SiO2 products, as I do not use them.

I only have a Porter Cable 7424XP polisher. I added a 5" vented backing plate and matching counterweight to it so I can use 5.5" pads.

I have a few compounds, but have been using 3D "HD Cut+" more than any others. None of the vehicles I detail need anything more aggressive than that. I use Buff & Shine MF pads and orange foam cutting pads with it. I have foam pads from both Buff & Shine and Lake Country.

I use a variety of polishes. Which one I use really depends on what task I am doing. I use Poorboy's World "SSR 2.5", "SSR 1.0", and their "Professional Polish". I recently used Adam's Polishes "Finishing Polish" on my C5Z, and I really liked it. I use green foam medium polishing pads and blue light polishing pads for finishing. If I really want to do some fine jeweling, I use black finishing pads.

Sealants I just apply with either black finishing pads or red waxing pads. I have quite a few sealants. Some seem to behave better than others on different colored paint, and some like to be topped with wax. Some last long and some don't last but look nicer. Again, it depends on what I am working on. I detail my own cars, and about 5 or 6 others owned by friends and family. I use "Rejex", Finish Kare "1000P", Poorboy's World "Pure Sealant", 3D "HD Poxy" hybrid, Collinite 845 hybrid, and Chemical Guys "Top Coat" hybrid.

ssg10587

No. I'd use an IPA to clean the surface then go for it.

I personally think finishing polish isnt needed unless the paint is hazy or dull. I haven't found it needed unless im correcting heavy scratches and making a lot of passes with correcting compound.

Would personally go carpro hydro2 or meguiars ceramic spray (or whatever it is called, blue bottle)

I would also agree that if you have a ceramic coating, don't waste the time with a sealant. A wax would be a better top layer for gloss.

FYRARMS

I am a big fan of finishing polish. While it isn't necessary on my pampered Vette, I like it for cleaning off a year's worth of sealant and wax layers, removing any micro-scratches I may have inadvertently put in during winter storage, and for giving the paint a fresh pop. I just use a soft blue polishing pad or black finishing pad and only make a few fast passes. It just makes the OCD in me feel better starting the year with a fresh polish.

I do need it on the daily, though. Winter is rough here. Vertical panels looked okay, so I just hit them with finishing polish and blue pads. Hood, roof, and trunk needed something a little more aggressive to take out some snow brush scratches. Used PB's SSR 2.5 medium grade polish and orange pads. Came out nicely!

charley95

And was this winter bad on my DD here in Illinois. I usually do correction on my DD in Sept. every year and don't have to touch it till the next Sept. Not this year,I ended up have to correct again last week.

FYRARMS

Man, I hear ya. Between pushing snow off the car, melting ice sliding across the hood, abrasive road salt and chemicals being sloshed on the car from whoever is driving in front of you, etc., it all does a number on your ride. Ugh.

CamarosRus

https://www.autogeek.net/pbsr.html Poor Boys Swirl Remover (as mentioned above)

yamabob

As stated it's a good idea to polish after claying. It will help remove "under paint " contaminants where as the clay will remove "above the surface" In lieu of a spray SiO2 look into Gyeon CanCoat. It's rather a coating lite and will give a true 6 months to a year. YMMV depending upon climate-driving conditions-mileage et al