leather care and dash protection
08-22-2004, 09:20 PM
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leather care and dash protection
Hi right now I am usgin meguairs gold class rich leather wipes and they seems to do pretty good but I'm nearly out of the wipes and wondered what you guys recommend and feel confident would be better than this meguairs product.
also what is the best proection you have found to put on your dash and console area I've been using armor all lint free wipes or either stp son of a gun so which do you recommend in this department as well.
also what is the best proection you have found to put on your dash and console area I've been using armor all lint free wipes or either stp son of a gun so which do you recommend in this department as well.
08-23-2004, 12:26 AM
#2
Safety Car
303 products work well for interior jobs.
Water:Woolite 6:1 is a great mild cleaner for maintenance cleaning.
Zaino leather conditioner is also a nice product.
Water:Woolite 6:1 is a great mild cleaner for maintenance cleaning.
Zaino leather conditioner is also a nice product.
08-23-2004, 07:57 AM
#3
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For the dash and console I just use a damp towel with no dressing. Others I know have had good luck with 303, but I have also seen a lot of "blotching" of the vinyl.
08-23-2004, 10:29 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
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Quote: For the dash and console I just use a damp towel with no dressing. Others I know have had good luck with 303, but I have also seen a lot of "blotching" of the vinyl.
~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Woolite or 303 are great cleaning products but a vinyl dressings should be used to replenish the necessary oils (to avoid the vinyl plasticizers drying out and cracking) to interior and viynl / plastic panels.
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Woolite or 303 are great cleaning products but a vinyl dressings should be used to replenish the necessary oils (to avoid the vinyl plasticizers drying out and cracking) to interior and viynl / plastic panels.
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
08-23-2004, 10:51 AM
#5
Race Director
303 for the vinyl including dash
Lexol leather cleaner and Lexol leather protectant works very well. I have also used Meguiars Gold class Leanter cleaner/ conditioner
I like the Lexol better, it seems to keep the leather softer and doesn't feel as slippery after use.
Lexol leather cleaner and Lexol leather protectant works very well. I have also used Meguiars Gold class Leanter cleaner/ conditioner
I like the Lexol better, it seems to keep the leather softer and doesn't feel as slippery after use.
08-23-2004, 05:47 PM
#6
Race Director
08-24-2004, 09:32 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
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Quote: I like the Lexol better, it seems to keep the leather softer and doesn't feel as slippery after use.
~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Quote: I have a 300 SL Gullwing that I have owned since 1973 and used it strictly as a show car. In order to have it properly prepared, part of the regimen was to make certain that the seats were nice and supple and looking "pretty" and I used Lexol. After about 10 years of usage of the Lexol, I noticed that the seat stitching was starting to fray. I called a re-upholsterer who did nothing but autos to look at what I thought to be a minor problem.
His inspection was very quick and to the point. He told me that Lexol was wonderful for the leather but the alcohol in it was destroying the stitching to the point where it was too far gone and the seats would either have to be replaced or re-done. Being the Master that he was he was able to re-stitch both seats and replaced the threads. It was amazing as to how fragile the stitching was; to the point that you could snap it without any effort.
Even though all is fine the price tag to get it repaired was high and the effort to get it done right was more than I would ever want to do again.
There you go, I responded and didn't shed a tear. lkirchner Aug 10 2004
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Quote: I have a 300 SL Gullwing that I have owned since 1973 and used it strictly as a show car. In order to have it properly prepared, part of the regimen was to make certain that the seats were nice and supple and looking "pretty" and I used Lexol. After about 10 years of usage of the Lexol, I noticed that the seat stitching was starting to fray. I called a re-upholsterer who did nothing but autos to look at what I thought to be a minor problem.
His inspection was very quick and to the point. He told me that Lexol was wonderful for the leather but the alcohol in it was destroying the stitching to the point where it was too far gone and the seats would either have to be replaced or re-done. Being the Master that he was he was able to re-stitch both seats and replaced the threads. It was amazing as to how fragile the stitching was; to the point that you could snap it without any effort.
Even though all is fine the price tag to get it repaired was high and the effort to get it done right was more than I would ever want to do again.
There you go, I responded and didn't shed a tear. lkirchner Aug 10 2004
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
08-24-2004, 09:45 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
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~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. Real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. Some of these ‘leathers’ are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. In accordance with US government standards theses should be labeled and sold as suede, instead they being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’
Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used. Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide. With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised.
To clean covered ‘leather’ requires a product that will penetrate the urethane coating without leaving any residue on the surface, while at the time providing necessary oils to the leather fibres.
Covered Leather (Urethane):
Is made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy.
Spills wipe off with a moist cloth, retains the aura of natural leather without its sensitivity to light and abuse. The urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Groit's Leather Care or lz einszett® Leather Care "Lederpflege"
Vinyl Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. Real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. Some of these ‘leathers’ are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. In accordance with US government standards theses should be labeled and sold as suede, instead they being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’
Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used. Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide. With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised.
To clean covered ‘leather’ requires a product that will penetrate the urethane coating without leaving any residue on the surface, while at the time providing necessary oils to the leather fibres.
Covered Leather (Urethane):
Is made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy.
Spills wipe off with a moist cloth, retains the aura of natural leather without its sensitivity to light and abuse. The urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Groit's Leather Care or lz einszett® Leather Care "Lederpflege"
Vinyl Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
08-24-2004, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
~ One man’s opinion / observations ~
Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. Real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. Some of these ‘leathers’ are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. In accordance with US government standards theses should be labeled and sold as suede, instead they being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’
Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used. Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide. With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised.
To clean covered ‘leather’ requires a product that will penetrate the urethane coating without leaving any residue on the surface, while at the time providing necessary oils to the leather fibres.
Covered Leather (Urethane):
Is made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy.
Spills wipe off with a moist cloth, retains the aura of natural leather without its sensitivity to light and abuse. The urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Groit's Leather Care or lz einszett® Leather Care "Lederpflege"
Vinyl Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. Real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. Some of these ‘leathers’ are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. In accordance with US government standards theses should be labeled and sold as suede, instead they being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’
Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used. Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide. With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised.
To clean covered ‘leather’ requires a product that will penetrate the urethane coating without leaving any residue on the surface, while at the time providing necessary oils to the leather fibres.
Covered Leather (Urethane):
Is made from natural hides, but uniquely treated with a light pigmented urethane resin coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating. It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, leathers worst enemy.
Spills wipe off with a moist cloth, retains the aura of natural leather without its sensitivity to light and abuse. The urethane resin or the vinyl covering require oils to stop it from drying out (just like a paint system's clear coat) clean, condition and apply a UVR protection as in items 1, 2 & 3 on page 2.
Identifying characteristics- uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change colour.
Recommended products-
Urethane Coated Leather- use Groit's Leather Care or lz einszett® Leather Care "Lederpflege"
Vinyl Covered leather- use Groit's Leather Rejuvenator or Leatherique Prestine Clean
~Hope this helps ~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon
......OK.......I just asked what was the best product to use on my seats not a history in how leather seats are made. You're what gives us engineers a bad name, people usually think of engineers as cocky people who always try to turn something simple into something more JUST TO FEEL AND LOOK BIG. I graduated years ago in electrical engineering and work at a nuclear plant and they're a lot of people I work with that are like that so I get sick of it.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
08-24-2004, 05:13 PM
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Racer
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Originally Posted by fast95vette
......OK.......I just asked what was the best product to use on my seats not a history in how leather seats are made. You're what gives us engineers a bad name, people usually think of engineers as cocky people who always try to turn something simple into something more JUST TO FEEL AND LOOK BIG. I graduated years ago in electrical engineering and work at a nuclear plant and they're a lot of people I work with that are like that so I get sick of it.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
08-24-2004, 05:20 PM
#12
Safety Car
Originally Posted by fast95vette
......OK.......I just asked what was the best product to use on my seats not a history in how leather seats are made. You're what gives us engineers a bad name, people usually think of engineers as cocky people who always try to turn something simple into something more JUST TO FEEL AND LOOK BIG. I graduated years ago in electrical engineering and work at a nuclear plant and they're a lot of people I work with that are like that so I get sick of it.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
He was trying to explain why instead of just how/what. He is probably the most knowledgable detailer on this site.
I'll sure make a point not to help you out anymore...I don't want to get bashed
08-24-2004, 06:07 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by ALLR RED
Here's a short answer for you. I have used the Lexol products did not like them at all. I like the cleaner/conditioner from Turtle Wax. It has the oils and conditioners to keep the stiching lubed, it smells good, you can buy it most anywhere,and best of all it doesn't cost you an arm and leg. Good stuff
but I kinda like how the GM leather in the vette is stiff feeling it looks new that way stiff with no wrinkles so thanks for the feekdback on the lexol I will try and search something else.fast95 vette, I hear the 303 aerospace is pretty good on leather I plan to try it on mine when I get my products from autogeek in the mail should be any day now
08-27-2004, 08:35 AM
#14
Drifting
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What A Jerk. The guy is trying to help you out, and obviously you don't appreciate it or deserve it. What a 
Originally Posted by fast95vette
......OK.......I just asked what was the best product to use on my seats not a history in how leather seats are made. You're what gives us engineers a bad name, people usually think of engineers as cocky people who always try to turn something simple into something more JUST TO FEEL AND LOOK BIG. I graduated years ago in electrical engineering and work at a nuclear plant and they're a lot of people I work with that are like that so I get sick of it.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.
08-27-2004, 10:09 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
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fast95vette I apologise if my long posts offend you, I have always tried to find out not just “How it works, but also “Why” it works. With that in mind I probably respond with more detail than some think is necessary.
But try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it.
“Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.”
Believe it or not I am just trying to share knowledge gained from four decades of detailing and with respect, if I was trying to make myself sound ‘big’ I don’t think a self depreciating signature, “justadumbarchitect” would bear that out.
But try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it.
“Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.”
Believe it or not I am just trying to share knowledge gained from four decades of detailing and with respect, if I was trying to make myself sound ‘big’ I don’t think a self depreciating signature, “justadumbarchitect” would bear that out.
08-28-2004, 10:55 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
fast95vette I apologise if my long posts offend you, I have always tried to find out not just “How it works, but also “Why” it works. With that in mind I probably respond with more detail than some think is necessary.
But try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it.
“Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.”
Believe it or not I am just trying to share knowledge gained from four decades of detailing and with respect, if I was trying to make myself sound ‘big’ I don’t think a self depreciating signature, “justadumbarchitect” would bear that out.
But try to write in a way that helps the reader to understand not only "How" to do something, but "Why" they are doing it.
“Maybe you are just trying to help but every post I see you make you try to sound all big just gets old.”
Believe it or not I am just trying to share knowledge gained from four decades of detailing and with respect, if I was trying to make myself sound ‘big’ I don’t think a self depreciating signature, “justadumbarchitect” would bear that out.
08-28-2004, 11:08 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by fast95vette
Hi right now I am usgin meguairs gold class rich leather wipes and they seems to do pretty good but I'm nearly out of the wipes and wondered what you guys recommend and feel confident would be better than this meguairs product.
also what is the best proection you have found to put on your dash and console area I've been using armor all lint free wipes or either stp son of a gun so which do you recommend in this department as well.
also what is the best proection you have found to put on your dash and console area I've been using armor all lint free wipes or either stp son of a gun so which do you recommend in this department as well.
Fast95--I also use the wipes, how long have you used them?? How often do you use them--thanks
09-06-2004, 06:35 PM
#18
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I may be insane...or just a cheap bastard; however, I like to use Pledge on my dash and console.
It cleans and gives it just enough shine. I've also used it on my leather/vinyl interiors in the past.
The lemon scent is pleasing too...haha.
It cleans and gives it just enough shine. I've also used it on my leather/vinyl interiors in the past.
The lemon scent is pleasing too...haha.
Last edited by DukeDiablo; 09-06-2004 at 06:41 PM.
09-07-2004, 08:52 AM
#19
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by HHC5
I for one appreciate your help--don't worry about some junior member's rude opinion--please keep up the good work. Most of us, I'm sure, aprreciate your effort.
I second that.
ZGood answers TOGWT. 
-Rick
