BartonekDragRacing

...still making/selling the 10bolt rear end kit?

383vett

It was probably a 12 bolt kit. Don't know if they still make it.

JackDidley

If you post in the drag section, someone there would know.

1991Z07

They have it on their web site:

C4

C5

NitrousSam

I spoke with Bob Carroll a week ago and they have lots of options including a 9 inch setup and they have a crossmember as well. I am seriously considering this setup as well so feel free to contact me.

Sam

93 ragtop

I thought this may be of interest to you.

http://www.racingjunk.com/Rear-Ends/...nversion-.html


And here is the kit they sell for c3's

http://www.racingjunk.com/Suspension...nversion-.html

FWIW it seems pretty popular over on the c3 forum section.

BartonekDragRacing

I saw that...they're on crack..way overpriced @ $10k.

I talked to Carrol's and the owner (I'm assuming that was him), said he was in the process of relocating his shop. His rear end is a bolt in and I think it was somewhere in the $5k range. I still dont know whether I'm buying a Quick Performance rear and have something fabbed or just buying Carrol's. I'll know within the next few days which route I'll take.

93 ragtop

I agree, 10k is way beyond what I can or will pay for a bolt in rear. But if they came up with the brackets, shocks, and springs, for $1150.00 Then let me supply the rear, brakes, and possibably the cross member, IMO that would not be a bad deal.

pologreen1

10K is a nice roller drag car all set up already or at least a decent prostreet. LMAO if people pay that...

mackeyred96

And I had trouble selling my car for $15,000.

hookedup

And Mackeys car was turnkey running 9s
$10K for a rear conversion

93 ragtop

Its a fact, racecars are selling for pennies on the dollar compared to what it cost to build, especially if you are paying labor. In no way can I afford or desire to spend 10,000 on a rear.
But that being said, it cost a lot to put a solid axle in a c4. Its not a Camaro where you can buy one for $2000 and bolt it in yourself.
Looking at what you need to even build your own and going cheap with generic new parts would be at least
$2000. for a 12 bolt rear
$500. for shocks and springs
$300. 4 link kit
$400. rod ends
$150 diagonal link
And that is $3350. alone, and you still don't have brakes, or a crossmember.
Now not knowing what options they are using, ie 9in, 40 spline axles, alum. differential case, racing brakes, etc. we really don't know how much it would cost to duplicate what they are building.
$10,000 may be a fair price and then again it may not. We just don't know enough to say.

RichS

Broke another spindle today. I'm once again considering going solid rear! Does his kit include the crossmember? Do you use the stock exhaust, brakes and wheels I may be calling Monday!

moneyman

rich hi it's john trescott. i have ken ramer's old car with 12 bolt instaled by leo. there a couple of problems with this instal. if someone is serious about this set up, i am considering parting out the car.

RichS

John, I sent you a PM. What kind of issues? I remember the one with the brake bias being set wrong causing him to hit the wall.

STEVEN13

Hi Rich,

Sorry to hear this.

I have my 92 6spd at a local race car shop in Long Island (MTK Racecraft) doing a 9" solid axle. I went with a Strange alum center and 4.11 gears. The rear was also narrowed (I think 6" total) for a deep dish rim. I also have M/T DR 315x17 (tire is about 12.5 inches wide). My plan is to have the car sit very low (as it used to sit with the IRS). In order to achieved this a portion of the rear floor will need to be removed. He is also going to fab a trans cross-member. The challenge I see will be the exhaust as I would prefer to not have it run under the rear (which is the way most people run it with a solid axle).

The kit you mentioned has a pan hard bar. At first I was going to run one also. But after some research it will be a watts linkage or wish bone. My set-up will also have a true 4-link. I am hoping it have it completed by June. Will post photos when completed.

My goal is to run the 11.50 index (one day!) with a stick.

Used to run a low 10 second stick shift Ford back in the 1980s

Good luck with your GS!

Regards,
Steve

moneyman

Hi Steven,

It sounds like a neat set up. You didn't mention a price. I agree with keeping original ride height.

A decent ride would be nice, mine rides like a truck. Maybe you can post pictures when it is done.

Good luck

John

STEVEN13

Hi John,

Mine drove like a truck to (as it was) it was set up for a road course-very stiff front and rear springs. I am guessing you have a solid axle-Right? If so what spring rates are you running? I was going to go with 170# or 200#(for the rear). Will post pictures when completed or close to completed.

Thanks,
Steve

hookedup

After a second thought and thinking over Ragtops comments maybe $10K today is not out of the question.

If you buy everything at the fab shop: complete rear housing w/brace, with alum. center assmbly, spool, axles & bearings, brakes, good coil overs, drive shaft, 4-link & brackets, fuel cell, shop time & materials, removal of the stock rear assembly and everything else installed/ready to drive away it's not a bad deal. I did & provided a lot of labor and materials for mine way back in 2005 plus we redid the roll bar and it wasn't a whole lot cheaper in the long run. A couple of years latter I decided to do a complete chrome moly back-half and finish off the 14 point cage, add manual r&p and much more for more than the original job cost. Damn, maybe you should just buy my car and avoid all the down time & delays!

Good luck on your project,
Dave

BTW, you're looking for a 110-130# spring if it's going to be a drag car, those others might be a little too stiff.

moneyman

Hi Steve, I bought the car with the 12bolt in it so I don't know the spring rate. most springs go by color,these being black.

John