jakk

Hello,

I purchased a 2010 base C6 M6 a few months ago. When I got the car, my intent was to build it out over time with the eventual goal of a SC kit, probably tuned somewhat conservatively with meth around 620whp or so. Prior to the SC I may go with full exhaust/a mild blower cam as a stepping point and see how I feel at that power level before deciding if I want to go with the SC. It's bone stock engine wise right now.

My questions is, how careful will I have to me about the rear at ~430whp or so, and then again at 620whp if I go the SC route?

The reason I am asking is because, with some of the stories I have read around here regarding the rear breaking and the costs involved to fix it, I am thinking of perhaps trading the C6 on a new 5.0 due to the solid axle on the 5.0 and what seems like perhaps a slightly lower cost to modify, although I think that is closer than one would think.

My primary usage of the car will be on the street, but I would like to take it to the strip a few times a year. I'd most likely be running DRs, not full slicks. Perhaps something like a 555R from the reading I have done. I would like to be able to drive the car on the street and launch from a stop on the street without being paranoid and having to tip toe around for fear of breaking the rear.

Figured I would ask in the drag racing section. Thanks for any input.

LS1LT1

The 2006+ (especially the 2008+) rears are quite strong actually.
So strong that I believe an automatic transmissioned C6 (with enough power of course) could run right into the 9s with it's stock rear surviving it. Behind that same power with manual trans and a good clutch though, not quite as strong.
The stock C6 Z06/C6 ZR1 rears are VERY strong but not relevant to this discussion.
The chances of breaking a rear at 430hp are certainly less than they would be at 620hp.
But with a manual, one can break a rear even with only 300hp if they screw up/try hard enough. Driving style, tire choice/pressures, clutch modulation, avoiding wheel hop etc are all factors that will determine how long a rear will live maybe even more so than actual power output. If it were a 2005 manual C6 it likely wouldn't make it through one pass.

jakk

Thanks for the info. I am aware of how strong the Z06/ZR1 rears are, as well as how weak the '05 is. I didn't realize that there were any improvements to the 08+ though, I thought they were all the same after 06.

I certainly don't plan to go around doing 5k clutch dumps. Most of the use will be on the street and rolling acceleration, but like I said I would like to be able to take off from a stop or lightly at the strip and not have to worry too much if using drag radials, which I imagine is required to get any sort of power at those levels.

Can a Z06 rear/diff be bolted on to a standard TR6060 C6? I can imagine it would cost quite a bit to do that though.

I really like the C6 from the weight standpoint as well as the TR6060 and LS3 which seem to be quite a stout combo. The main is really my only concern.

LS1LT1

They essentially are but I believe there were just some very minor improvements with slight ribbing/bracing upgrades that came later on. I think.




I don't think it's a simple bolt in, on manual C6s it might require a transmission input shaft change among a few other minor alterations to make it work.
I know the C6 Z06 rear does practically bolt right in to the 2006+ automatic cars though.

Rick@RKT Performance

You already have the TR6060 with 30 spline main shaft and your differential is no different than a C6 Z06. At your power level, it won't hurt anything. Give it all you got.

jakk

Thanks for the info.

Joe_G

with above. You don't need to baby that setup. I launch at 6200 all the time and get 1.4 60 foots and I've only broken one 05 rear on my 301st pass.

The key is to not wheel hop at all. Any wheel hop and GET OUT OF IT. That's what breaks most rears. If you run drag radials at 18 psi, you likely won't have any wheel hop. I don't.

I covet that 6060 30-spline trans of yours. It's strong. The T56 has a pretty weak third gear blocker ring that will break if you try to shift too fast too many times or screw up one to many shifts. Don't ask me how I know.

jakk

I do get out of it if I have any wheel hop. Is wheel hop more prevalent on street tires? I'm surprised how much wheel hop I currently get, and I'm wondering if I should be letting air out of my rear tires (305 v12 evo's). Perhaps the hop is due to my launching technique as well.

Joe_G

Yes wheel hop is much more prevalent with street tires. I will never launch hard on them.

zoomz

Axles is your only worry imo , everything else is solid .

Joe_G

Axels are actually not a worry...I have BEATEN on mine with many 1.4 60 foots and I've never had a problem. I very seldom see a problem with axles. Those things are strong. Gary2004z06 broke one but he gets 1.3 60 foots.

But if you do happen to break one they are the cheapest thing to break and easy to change.

zoomz

Are the 2010 C6 axles stronger than the 06/z06 axles ?

I ended up going with drive shop axles for my 5k launches on 410's and DR's

ajrothm

Hmmm... I've broke 3 axle stubs... 1 stock one, one hardened one and one hardened one in my billet eaton carrier..

I've also broken a 9310 g force mainshaft on my Mn12 Trans. I also split a 1 rib diff in half.. LOL. All this in less then 20 passes.. I think I'm doing it wrong..

The long axle stub is definitely the weakest link in these..

Joe_G

Yikes!

For sure the new vette needs a different launch technique than the older one. You cannot dump the clutch, you need to ride it out....it's a fine balance between slipping it too much and glazing it or dumping it and breaking things. And if you have any wheel hop get out of it, it will break things quickly. I get none with my DR's at 17 psi.

Here is how I do it after years of practice. Note the time of clutch release, as you hear the car rev before that, I've floored it as the tree comes down, and the release is at wot. I wouldn't start out doing that as you need your timing honed in....start at a lower rpm but the acceleration into the clutch release, vs holding and releasing, is key. You want to avoid the bog for a good 60 foot.


For anyone getting started launching, I'd refer to this website, it has helped me a ton.

Www.rangeracceleration.com

jakk

Thanks for all of the really good information on launch technique. Right now I'm launching at 2-3k and trying not to dump it. Usually I bog pretty bad right off the line which is really hurting my times *best 60' was a 2.3), but hopefully I will get the balance figured out.

Joe_G

I can surely recommend you study Ranger's website, it really works, and my tips kick in after you've mastered his technique.

You need drag radials to do anything, there's no sense trying on street tires any more than you'd go ice skating in sneakers. You need the proper shoes for the occasion!

Eric Fischer

Just curious if you broke all of this stuff on the M6 or A4?

jakk

Agreed on both points! I plan to look into DRs and perhaps power upgrades next year as I'm in the midwest and the rest of the good driving weather is on the way out. In the mean time I can still practice my launch technique at least.

Joe_G

Don't waste your time practicing launching on street tires...the risk of wheel hop is too great and it'll break something in your rear. Way too dangerous and you aren't learning anything as the tires just won't hold a launch no matter what you do.

jakk

Oh, ok good to know. I've never used drag radials before and thought the wheel hop was due to my launch technique as opposed to the tire. I have also noticed that I get some wheel hop on the street as well. At stock power levels, I'm surprised I am seeing as much wheel hop on the street as I am.

The tires are ~4 years old and are V12 evos, 305 rear width. I'm wondering if the age of the tires or the amount of air in them is contributing to the wheel hop. Would letting air out or adding air help to reduce the wheel hop?

Also, if I do decide to go with DR, how much street usage can they see before they wear out? I'm just trying to figure out what the best way to go about eliminating this wheel hop on the street and strip is.