C2 and C3 drag guys look inside...
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C2 and C3 drag guys look inside...
What size and offset are you guys using for your drag wheels? Is there a Convo Pro or something similar that's a direct bolton without needing a spacer to clear the calipers? I haven't had the best luck getting regular wheels to clear, never mind a skinny. I'd like a 15x3 for the front and a 15x8 on the rear. Also torn on using a drag radial or a bias ply. 3200lb 5 speed 4 link car running the 11.50 index.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2008
Location: 2011,2012 ECS CC 10.50 CHAMP Massapequa NY
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Are you running these on the 67? I run the 3.5 inch centerline on my 66 with a 1/2 inch spacer. You could also, which I have done to my 67 is grind done the face of the caliper for more clearance. If you are running the 67, 8 inch rims wont fit unless you raise the rear of the car and have some of the tire sticking out past the fender. drag radials dont work well with stick cars.
(I'm also on small block posse)
(I'm also on small block posse)
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Yes this is for the 67. I've got a 17x8 (with a 285/40 on it) on the rear now so I'd like to think a 15 would fit. I don't have trailing arms in the way anymore. The 4 link was designed around fitting a 8in wheel. I wanted to go to a 10, but that would have needed the wheel tubs to be modified to the point where the top might not fold correctly. Do your rears fit without spacers? I've got factory calipers up front and Wilwoods out back, and prefer a spacer over grinding as the 17s show EVERYTHING thru the spokes. Lol. And the popular consensus has been to put a bias ply on it, but that still leaves me with a question. If the shock of a stick car upsets them, why do the work on trans break cars? Wouldn't that be just as violent?
Bias plus mean a tire change at the track. Looks like it's mini-trailer time. Any idea if somebody still makes a hitch for these cars?
Bias plus mean a tire change at the track. Looks like it's mini-trailer time. Any idea if somebody still makes a hitch for these cars?
#4
Burning Brakes
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Yes this is for the 67. I've got a 17x8 (with a 285/40 on it) on the rear now so I'd like to think a 15 would fit. I don't have trailing arms in the way anymore. The 4 link was designed around fitting a 8in wheel. I wanted to go to a 10, but that would have needed the wheel tubs to be modified to the point where the top might not fold correctly. Do your rears fit without spacers? I've got factory calipers up front and Wilwoods out back, and prefer a spacer over grinding as the 17s show EVERYTHING thru the spokes. Lol. And the popular consensus has been to put a bias ply on it, but that still leaves me with a question. If the shock of a stick car upsets them, why do the work on trans break cars? Wouldn't that be just as violent?
Bias plus mean a tire change at the track. Looks like it's mini-trailer time. Any idea if somebody still makes a hitch for these cars?
Bias plus mean a tire change at the track. Looks like it's mini-trailer time. Any idea if somebody still makes a hitch for these cars?
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
That is tight. But something that I should have also mentioned earlier is that the rear frame rails have been moved inboard about 1 1/2 inches on each side so that he entire wheel tub is now usable where the stock frame rail position had the tub overlapped a bit. I'll see if I can dig up pics. I know my gas tank needed to be narrowed to fit inside the relocated rails. Guess the best way for me to do this is to get the car running and spend about an hour at a wheel shop that's got the mockup jigs and see what they can tell me.
Thanks for the help.
Found this pic.. Kinda tough to see 100%, but the frame has been relocated to as close to the inner tub part of the body as it could go. At the front of the wheel house, you can see that the roll bar comes between the kick up and the body.
Thanks for the help.
Found this pic.. Kinda tough to see 100%, but the frame has been relocated to as close to the inner tub part of the body as it could go. At the front of the wheel house, you can see that the roll bar comes between the kick up and the body.
Last edited by Fordracer9; 02-26-2015 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Added pic
#6
Burning Brakes
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Yea I cant help you out then. My 4 link set up has the chassis rails untouched for the most part and the width of my rear is also the stock width. Not knowing where your rear is located makes it impossible for me to help you with the offset.
#7
Drifting
I am using 15x10 Draglites. They fit my 4 link without spacers, I modified my frame as well.
I'm in Hazlet NJ you are welcome to swing by and bolt them on if you like.
,Mark
I'm in Hazlet NJ you are welcome to swing by and bolt them on if you like.
,Mark
#8
Drifting
Also manual cars, as far as I know, do better with a bias ply tire.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Ok, picked up a set of 15x8 Pro Stars off Craig's List. They came with 28x11.5 ET Strets mounted on them. This is a good/bad news deal. It seems that the wheel will bolt on and clear everything without needing a spacer. The tire however is another story. Tread width isn't the issue, section width of the sidewall is. The sidewall bulge rubs the panhard bar mount, the 4 link arms and the brake cable. Looks like I'll be running 28x9s on these wheels.
#10
Burning Brakes
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The 8 inch rims Make the crown of the tire wider. That's what I was letting you know. The 28x9 slicks are the same size as the 28x11.5 et streets. I have both tires on the 7 inch rims. If your on Long Island hit me up and I'll show you both sets. Maybe try a small spacer.