Burnout/Launch Help
06-26-2017, 09:07 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Burnout/Launch Help
My car is a 12 gs M6 with headers, cam, ecs1500 blower, meth, and an RPS twin disc clutch. I make 671rwhp. At the track, I run stock sized front wheels/tires. On the rear I run a 345/35/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street. To date, my personal best is an 11.03 @ 127.
I am doing burnouts in 1st gear. However, the back end will always start to slide sideways to the point that I feel it is becoming unsafe and I stop the burnout. I have yet to be able to make significant white smoke and don't think I am getting the tires warm enough.
My best 60' time to date is a 1.8. Any efforts to launch any harder inevitably end up in excessive tire spin. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I really want that 10.XX time slip!!!!!
I am doing burnouts in 1st gear. However, the back end will always start to slide sideways to the point that I feel it is becoming unsafe and I stop the burnout. I have yet to be able to make significant white smoke and don't think I am getting the tires warm enough.
My best 60' time to date is a 1.8. Any efforts to launch any harder inevitably end up in excessive tire spin. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I really want that 10.XX time slip!!!!!
Last edited by ksurfer2; 06-26-2017 at 09:27 AM.
06-26-2017, 03:22 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
06-26-2017, 03:22 PM
#6
Without the line lock you cant spin them long enough to get them hot enough. Hopefully you have one. 
06-27-2017, 08:22 AM
#8
Advanced
My car is a 12 gs M6 with headers, cam, ecs1500 blower, meth, and an RPS twin disc clutch. I make 671rwhp. At the track, I run stock sized front wheels/tires. On the rear I run a 345/35/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street. To date, my personal best is an 11.03 @ 127.
I am doing burnouts in 1st gear. However, the back end will always start to slide sideways to the point that I feel it is becoming unsafe and I stop the burnout. I have yet to be able to make significant white smoke and don't think I am getting the tires warm enough.
My best 60' time to date is a 1.8. Any efforts to launch any harder inevitably end up in excessive tire spin. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I really want that 10.XX time slip!!!!!
I am doing burnouts in 1st gear. However, the back end will always start to slide sideways to the point that I feel it is becoming unsafe and I stop the burnout. I have yet to be able to make significant white smoke and don't think I am getting the tires warm enough.
My best 60' time to date is a 1.8. Any efforts to launch any harder inevitably end up in excessive tire spin. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. I really want that 10.XX time slip!!!!!
06-29-2017, 03:05 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
So, when the rear wants to kick out it's usually because you need more rpm and wheel speed to avoid one or both tires trying to grip assuming you are on a nice level area.
Also, make sure you are on a level patch without one tire partially in the groove and the other on the incline of the groove.
Another trick is to stop at the leading edge of the water box where the pavement is damp to allow for the tires to light right up. You will often have to keep feeding it throttle to maintain the rpms. Often giving it more throttle will straighten the car out but not always.
It takes a little practice and safety comes first, so if the rear gets too far out hit the brakes and bail on the burnout.
I'd start the drag radials @ 18psi cold.
Be aggressive with the burnout but cautious as well and always be willing to abort and start over.
Your tires need to be hot to 60' the car.
A second gear burnout may be a good solution but will often require the initial rpms to be higher than in first.
Last edited by robz; 06-29-2017 at 03:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ksurfer2 (06-29-2017)
09-22-2017, 01:16 AM
#10
Psi
I have the same tires and I tried everything... I found 17-17.5 to be the best. I can hook with 1.5 60ft
Without a line lock most people don't keep the revs up high enough or get on the brakes "lightly" quick enough. You need that initial hit to get those tires moving.
So, when the rear wants to kick out it's usually because you need more rpm and wheel speed to avoid one or both tires trying to grip assuming you are on a nice level area.
Also, make sure you are on a level patch without one tire partially in the groove and the other on the incline of the groove.
Another trick is to stop at the leading edge of the water box where the pavement is damp to allow for the tires to light right up. You will often have to keep feeding it throttle to maintain the rpms. Often giving it more throttle will straighten the car out but not always.
It takes a little practice and safety comes first, so if the rear gets too far out hit the brakes and bail on the burnout.
I'd start the drag radials @ 18psi cold.
Be aggressive with the burnout but cautious as well and always be willing to abort and start over.
Your tires need to be hot to 60' the car.
A second gear burnout may be a good solution but will often require the initial rpms to be higher than in first.
So, when the rear wants to kick out it's usually because you need more rpm and wheel speed to avoid one or both tires trying to grip assuming you are on a nice level area.
Also, make sure you are on a level patch without one tire partially in the groove and the other on the incline of the groove.
Another trick is to stop at the leading edge of the water box where the pavement is damp to allow for the tires to light right up. You will often have to keep feeding it throttle to maintain the rpms. Often giving it more throttle will straighten the car out but not always.
It takes a little practice and safety comes first, so if the rear gets too far out hit the brakes and bail on the burnout.
I'd start the drag radials @ 18psi cold.
Be aggressive with the burnout but cautious as well and always be willing to abort and start over.
Your tires need to be hot to 60' the car.
A second gear burnout may be a good solution but will often require the initial rpms to be higher than in first.
10-01-2017, 06:13 PM
#12
What is a good line lock that does not interfere with the computer? Are there any that come with lines already made an just bolt in?
Last edited by jimbob8915; 10-01-2017 at 06:13 PM.