[L98]: How much lift before piston modification?
Thanks. :)
Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/ZF6
top end mods
jetted 150hp NX
Blown 383ci is coming very soon Spring 2002


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One small mistake could cost you alot of money.
Example: I've been doing this stuff for over 35 years and I still went to Cartek. Best move I could of made. You can't know it all.
can affect valve to piston clearance, as well as where you install the cam
(in terms of advance/retard). Different cam lobes have different rates of
acceleration on opening the valves which can cause the valve to get closer
to the piston, all else being equal. On the intake stroke the intake valve
is "chasing" the piston (intake valve is opening while the piston is moving
down the cylinder). On the exhaust stroke the piston is chasing the valve
as it closes. There's alot going on there.
There's more to it than just gross lift.
You also have spring coil bind to deal with. This could become a problem
before you start having piston interference.
You have to check clearances with whatever combination you are going to
run.
Dan
I should have quoted it.
Scorp didn't mention any specific cam, so I was responding in more
general terms.
Using your method, if you have clearance at max lift with the piston at
TDC then yes, you're fine. However, if the valve hits with the piston at
TDC then that certainly doesn't mean you wouldn't have adequate clearance
with the engine running, because the valve does not come the closest
while the piston is at TDC. Therefore, if you don't have enough clearance
using your simple method you can't draw a conclusion either way.
Scorp simply asked "what's the max lift a L98 will handle", and my point
is that there is not a simple answer to that question.
If the question were "will xyz cam work", that's different.
Dan
KM
at maximum valve lift. On the intake valve it occurs at some point while the
valve is opening (and the piston is "on it's way down" the cylinder), and
on the exhaust valve it occurs while the valve is closing. This is why a change
in duration, lobe ramp (opening/closing the valve "faster"), and cam
timing (advance/retard, change to LSA) can all affect valve to piston clearance
even though the lift may be the same.
The easiest way to accurately check valve to piston clearance is to use clay
on the piston, which is what I'm doing here:
http://home.austin.rr.com/dancurrie/mm6.jpg
If the heads are already on and you want to check it then you can adjust
the valve to spec and then insert a stack of feeler gauges between the rocker
and valve equal to the min. amount of clearance you want, and slowly turn the
engine over by hand to check for binding. You have to be careful doing
this on hydraulic lifters though because the plunger in the lifter will bottom,
which won't give you full valve lift. This test method is best done using a solid
lifter even on a hydralic camshaft.
Dan :)
As stated several times below, the best way to determine if an unknown cam will work would be to mock the combination with clay and a solid roller lifter on the hydraulic roller cam. This requires purchase of some additional parts. With that being said, I ran a similar combo to what you are describing above; LPE219, 1.6 ProMags, 91D-Ports angle milled to 51cc, on factory '87 pistons. I ran this combo in several positions (straight up, 4° adv, 2° adv) and checked each time with no issues on clearance.
My advice, check everything, but the same combo has worked for me and others.
BTW, I thought you were going with aftermarket SRP pistons, or a 383 combo. Is this not the push any longer?
Best of Luck,
Aaron
P.S. thanks for emailing me back about my registration problems.
Jeff












