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I currently have a coppper 4 core, I had nasty overheating problems, then relocated my intercoolers up to the very front, and that helped a little. But I am still going up to around 220. It takes alot longer though. So what kind of radiator would help me out?
I got a Griffin aluminum radiator from Tom Dewitt (Dewitt's Radiators here on the forum). It dropped my temps by approx. 30 degrees- no more overheating even in traffic. I'm truly pleased w/ it because my car always ran a bit hot & always overheated in traffic.
I have a custom built Griffen in mine. Works just great. Tem[s never go above 200 degrees, even in heavy traffic at 116 degrees outside.
Also have custom chip from Ed Wright.
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Yeah, I would like to hear what Daffy is asking as well. The Griffin from summit is only like 180 to 280 "depending on size. . while the BeCool is more like 400 or more. But then there is the Summit Aluminum radiator which has the same specs as the Griffin "one inch diameter Tubing and 2 rows. It's only 169.95. What about this other guys, who is on this forum? I can't see his name cause I am writing this reply right now :(.
The Be Cool Rad & Spal fan combo is rated for more than 750 hp I believe! Those that have spent the money on this package have not complained that I have heard. I talked to the Be Cool Pres on day and learned a lot. He mentioned moast people short the rad and try to make up for it w/fans. He said that as engine should be able to travel Hwy on just rad w/o fans. That fans are to create airflow when car is at rest/low speed. I had my 74 w/3 core rebuilt w/4 core and use dual 11" spals. This is a little overkill but I've had no problems this summer "112" w/ac on! The aftermarket rads will require some mods, a rebuilt factory rad will fit perfect and look stock. The extra cooling saves HP "25+" between 180-220. Spend the money, you won't be sorry.
I forgot to mention "Shrouding" the rad. It it very important that all the air travel through the rad and not around it. Many cooling problems are solved by properly shrouding the fan. In my case replacing the seals around the shrouds made a big difference in temps. Hope this helps, please keep us posted.
Okay, I will have to try that tomarrow, I do have quite an area for air to escape past. that and my radiator is slightly laid back even more than they are stock. I will let you all know how that turns out. I still will probabily get an alunimum radiator, just cause it would really look better.
I forgot to mention "Shrouding" the rad. It it very important that all the air travel through the rad and not around it. Many cooling problems are solved by properly shrouding the fan. In my case replacing the seals around the shrouds made a big difference in temps. Hope this helps, please keep us posted.
Excellent point- and you don't have to pay the big bucks for the seal kits either. I found a local foam shop that had exactly the right stuff which they cut to size for me. It only cost a few bucks & I have plenty left over for the future. Same goes for the foam ring for the L88 air cleaner- I have 2 spares at approx. $1-2 each.
Holy Smokes!!!.. I just got a reply from Griffin abotu a radiator for my vett. They recremmonded a 2 core with 1.25inch tubes. PRICE!!!.. 785.00 with internet discount. how much did some of you pay for your alum rad. and what are the specs?
Look on the right border of this screen- you'l see DeWitt's Radiators. Click on that & I think you'll see they have a Griffin for you for $618. Tom DeWitt is the owner- nice guy.
I've got a Ron Davis aluminum. Don't know if it is better or worse than a Griffin, but it dropped the engine temps 20 degrees F worst case in traffic.
Agree that it is very important to seal around the radiator (I used foam strips) so that all cooling air goes through the radiator, and that all air pulled by the fans comes through the radiator.
Finally, if you have AC, be sure to clean out the condenser when you install a new radiator. Mine had at least a half pound of sand clogging it up. The Vette is like a vacuum cleaner on the road.
I am running the universal griffin with the two one inch rows and it works great. My electric fans don't come on on the freeway and I am missing some of the gaskets that seal the core support. I just couldn't afford to spend $600 for a friggin radiator, so I spent $200 and considered the other $400 as a start on a 5 speed project! There are a number of guys in the C3 group running this radiator. Do a search and you will find a lot of threads about it.
Check the link on my web page for an article about the installation.
WashingtonRacer-
You didn't mention what year Corvette??
The "universal-fit" radiators are all 1/2 the price of the "exact-fit" ones but the C4 uses such a weird size. I have an 89 C4 and got the Griffin dual 1.25" race radiator (#6084 I think) from Summit for just under $500 (manual); the AT version was slightly more. Excellent fit and construction, and works very well :yesnod:
THanks for the imput, For the first time in about a year I have stopped working on the vett, and I have no reason why, just kinda tired of it at the moment, I kinda did little things however, I began to seal up the edges ofthe radiator, Since you all say it makes a huge difference, then it's worth giving it a shot, and besides, the gap I have for air to flow around the radiator is pretty big. Other than that, I have been doing some body prep. I'm gonna take a class at the local commuity college on auto body repair and painting. Hopefully I will get a chance to take her in and paint it up my self, and have a chance to learn how the right way at the same time.
I will let you all know how the radiator sealing works out soon. If that doesn't work, then I am going to look into the 1.25/2 core Griffins, since I might as well go overkill. and if I can get it under 500 then I will be happy.
George,
With the "generic" Griffin radiator, did all of the factory items fit back in place? Was the AC core able to still fit in the factory "suitcase"? Do the hoses come out in the same location? Were the hose sizes the same as the factory size? Do they have provisions for the AT cooler? Drain valve? Did you have to make your own rubber supports (because it would not fit in the factory supports)?
I am about ready to order a replacement for the factory unit in my '87. What sort of temperature drop did you experience?
Aaron-
I didn't get the generic version; I coughed up the $500 for the custom fit. And yes, everything fit back in the right place: AC core, hose outlets and sizes, drain valve. Understand there is trimming required just because of the sheer size and there's no getting around that. You have to trim upper/lower rubber insulators which held a 1" core so they can hold 2.5" core. I also had to trim the fiberglass shroud around the cap / filler neck and drain valve a bit. You can order with or without the AT cooler. It's a very well made piece; once I got airflow to it I saw 15-20F temperature drop.
If you are more adventurous, their generic 16x30" rad is under $300, but I bet the lower outlet is behind the crossmember on a C4.
George,
I was a bit off in saying "generic", I should have said custom fit. Thanks for the feedback on the fit, etc. I have looked in the Summit catalog and find nothing but 5 digit order numbers with regard to the Griffin radiators. Also< I see no listing for C4 vettes; C2, C3, but no C4s. Did you have to call them and have them research the number? Did you contact Griffin, get the correct P/N, and then have Summit drop ship from Griffin to your door? I think I am ready to order, and I do believe from all the reading I have done, the Griffin custom fit (w/o AT cooler) is the way to go.
6284AF Pro Series 2 x 1" core
6584AF HP Series 2 x 1.25" core
The normal extension is -BAX which I think means AT cooler. I found my original Summit invoice and I have a 6584AF-XXX which is the HP series without AT cooler; sounds like you need the same one.