I have my LS6 out right now - What should I do to it to make ~525BHP?
07-10-2017, 04:16 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
I have my LS6 out right now - What should I do to it to make ~525BHP?
I'm into road racing track days with my C5 Z06. I pulled the engine because I'm going to install a new Aviaid "LS-D" dry sump setup shortly.
Well, I managed to strip some end threads on a hole on the crank where you bolt on the flywheel while trying to wrangle off the harmonic balancer. I may be able to rethread it, but I'd rather not risk it. The engine has almost exactly 100,000 miles on it right now, so I may as well rebuild and replace some parts.
The engine is 100% stock right now. I want to keep the engine NA. I just ordered a 3.42 final drive Quaife racing diff from Zip Corvette, so the final drive isn't going to change. I just rebuilt my T-56 tranny and torque tube with upgraded parts. I don't care about emissions. I'm not looking to buy new heads - trying to keep costs down. I'm trying to target a HP range a bit above a stock LS7, if possible/reasonable - maybe 525BHP/450RWHP.
I'm aiming to get a new stock 3.622 crank, new bearings, bolts, piston rings, and gaskets. I should probably get the heads ported/polished/machined. New cam setup with springs/rods/hydraulic lifters. Cam chain. What exhaust setup? Could I port the stock intake manifold to larger diameter and get a new air intake?
I'm noticing on sites like SummitRacing.com that they only do rebuilt 24x reluctor wheel 3.622 cranks, but new 58x ones. Isn't there some cheap way to convert the 58x reluctor signal with some adapter? Or maybe I should just upgrade my ECU so I can get more info from it (I do OBDII data logging)? Is that possible?
I'm new to this, so explain everything in detail to me! I've been trying to do my research, but I'm sure I've missed stuff. I greatly appreciate everyone's help. This is the best community!
Well, I managed to strip some end threads on a hole on the crank where you bolt on the flywheel while trying to wrangle off the harmonic balancer. I may be able to rethread it, but I'd rather not risk it. The engine has almost exactly 100,000 miles on it right now, so I may as well rebuild and replace some parts.
The engine is 100% stock right now. I want to keep the engine NA. I just ordered a 3.42 final drive Quaife racing diff from Zip Corvette, so the final drive isn't going to change. I just rebuilt my T-56 tranny and torque tube with upgraded parts. I don't care about emissions. I'm not looking to buy new heads - trying to keep costs down. I'm trying to target a HP range a bit above a stock LS7, if possible/reasonable - maybe 525BHP/450RWHP.
I'm aiming to get a new stock 3.622 crank, new bearings, bolts, piston rings, and gaskets. I should probably get the heads ported/polished/machined. New cam setup with springs/rods/hydraulic lifters. Cam chain. What exhaust setup? Could I port the stock intake manifold to larger diameter and get a new air intake?
I'm noticing on sites like SummitRacing.com that they only do rebuilt 24x reluctor wheel 3.622 cranks, but new 58x ones. Isn't there some cheap way to convert the 58x reluctor signal with some adapter? Or maybe I should just upgrade my ECU so I can get more info from it (I do OBDII data logging)? Is that possible?
I'm new to this, so explain everything in detail to me! I've been trying to do my research, but I'm sure I've missed stuff. I greatly appreciate everyone's help. This is the best community!
Last edited by conradb; 07-10-2017 at 08:45 AM.
07-13-2017, 04:48 PM
#2
Drifting
We have road raced the LS1/LS6 in SCCA and V8 StockCar for more than 10 years. We have done a number of LS combinations both EFI and carbureted.ck
Some examples:
LS6 with forged rods and pistons, Cam was very mild...just a little more than the ASA cam. With unported heads power was around 460/435. With ported heads 500/450. The GMPP "Grand Am Cam with .580 lift and more duration would likely get you to 525 at flywheel.
# 2
383 ci LS6 with ported heads, 11 to 1, 600 lift cam, Holley 750 carb
made about 570 HP and nearly 500 lbs ft of torque
great road race motor with torque everywhere
#3
LS6 stock save for ASA cam, headers and Holley 650 carb
we did several of these and all made about 450-460. One similar EFI build made 450 ish.
All motors were dry sump from ASA single stage type to later 3 stage AVIAD or ARE.
Some folks are not big on the the 383 LS types, but I can tell you from track experience they are excellent, torquey easy to drive motors. If there is no rule and your gonna buy a new crank and pistons, I would go this route. Stroker LS2 would be even better, but if you wanna stay with your original block and heads, the 383 is sweet.
If this is for club racing and or track days, keep the cam lift below 600 and the rpm around 6500-6800 and you should have a reliable piece that can run with the best.
Some examples:
LS6 with forged rods and pistons, Cam was very mild...just a little more than the ASA cam. With unported heads power was around 460/435. With ported heads 500/450. The GMPP "Grand Am Cam with .580 lift and more duration would likely get you to 525 at flywheel.
# 2
383 ci LS6 with ported heads, 11 to 1, 600 lift cam, Holley 750 carb
made about 570 HP and nearly 500 lbs ft of torque
great road race motor with torque everywhere
#3
LS6 stock save for ASA cam, headers and Holley 650 carb
we did several of these and all made about 450-460. One similar EFI build made 450 ish.
All motors were dry sump from ASA single stage type to later 3 stage AVIAD or ARE.
Some folks are not big on the the 383 LS types, but I can tell you from track experience they are excellent, torquey easy to drive motors. If there is no rule and your gonna buy a new crank and pistons, I would go this route. Stroker LS2 would be even better, but if you wanna stay with your original block and heads, the 383 is sweet.
If this is for club racing and or track days, keep the cam lift below 600 and the rpm around 6500-6800 and you should have a reliable piece that can run with the best.
Last edited by bosco022; 07-13-2017 at 04:57 PM.
