jesel shaft rocker ?
12-15-2002, 04:42 PM
#1
Racer
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jesel shaft rocker ?
I will be ordering the jesel shaft rocker soon for my brodix track1 heads going on a 427 small block. With these rockers, do you still use a stud girdle? the heads are race ported, polished, and have the springs and valves in. what else do i need to buy to complete the heads for a racing application. I want only the best parts.
12-15-2002, 05:39 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Re: jesel shaft rocker ? (blackguard)
No stud girdle with Jesel Shaft rockers, each pair of rockers is mounted on it's owm shaft and bolted to the stand via 3 bolts, one of which is splayed in comparison to the others.
If this is really a racing application, there are many upgrades for teh Jesel shaft rockers you might want to consider. I have Jesel J2K shaft rockers - ultralight profiling, fully shotpeened, tool steel adjusters, needle noe bearings, oversized trunnion bearings, ARP 2000 hardware, etc. Most of that stuff isn't needed for the street, but if you're building a 7000+rpm motor, the upgrades will provided an increased level of reliability due to the stonger parts, and lighter weight. I ended up getting a good deal and got the whole treatment. You'll find that with the better quality valvetrain components, especially when they are lightweight, that you can run a lighter spring and you don't have to adjsut you lash as often with a solid roller cam. With the Jesel lifters and rockers, I very rarely have to adjust my valve lash.
Also, titanium valves and retainers are pretty much a basic upgrade if it's a racing application. I prefer Del West titanium valves and retainers but there are other good choices as well. Make sure the springs that come with the heads meet the requirements of the cam you intend to run as well. Most sorings that come with racing oriented heads are usually good for .700" or so but make sure.
For push rods, if you want the best, I'd recommend CV Products, Smith Bros, or Manton. Either company can make you a one piece chromoly pushord set. If you need to use offset lifters or rockers, and there's still a little angle in the pushrod, you might want to consider a 210 degree tip. It will provide more contact area between the pushrod and the seat or cup. Also, if you intend to run higher rpms regularly, tapered pushrods can reduce the reciprocating weight without sacrificing strength or stiffness. I've been using 3/8" to 5/15" double tapered, single 210 degree tip, one piece CV Products pushrods for the last couple of years.
Put some Dykem on the tip of an intake valve and exhaust valve tip and use an adjustble pushrod to determine the pusrod length you need. With the proper size pushrod, you find that the contact pattern between the rocker wheel and valve stem tip will be centered and only roll over the center 1/3 of the diameter.
Jesel sells a couple of tools to help you find the correct pushrod length, one of which is a solid aluminum dummy rocker, but I've found the manual way to produce a tighter contact pattern over the tip.
If this is really a racing application, there are many upgrades for teh Jesel shaft rockers you might want to consider. I have Jesel J2K shaft rockers - ultralight profiling, fully shotpeened, tool steel adjusters, needle noe bearings, oversized trunnion bearings, ARP 2000 hardware, etc. Most of that stuff isn't needed for the street, but if you're building a 7000+rpm motor, the upgrades will provided an increased level of reliability due to the stonger parts, and lighter weight. I ended up getting a good deal and got the whole treatment. You'll find that with the better quality valvetrain components, especially when they are lightweight, that you can run a lighter spring and you don't have to adjsut you lash as often with a solid roller cam. With the Jesel lifters and rockers, I very rarely have to adjust my valve lash.
Also, titanium valves and retainers are pretty much a basic upgrade if it's a racing application. I prefer Del West titanium valves and retainers but there are other good choices as well. Make sure the springs that come with the heads meet the requirements of the cam you intend to run as well. Most sorings that come with racing oriented heads are usually good for .700" or so but make sure.
For push rods, if you want the best, I'd recommend CV Products, Smith Bros, or Manton. Either company can make you a one piece chromoly pushord set. If you need to use offset lifters or rockers, and there's still a little angle in the pushrod, you might want to consider a 210 degree tip. It will provide more contact area between the pushrod and the seat or cup. Also, if you intend to run higher rpms regularly, tapered pushrods can reduce the reciprocating weight without sacrificing strength or stiffness. I've been using 3/8" to 5/15" double tapered, single 210 degree tip, one piece CV Products pushrods for the last couple of years.
Put some Dykem on the tip of an intake valve and exhaust valve tip and use an adjustble pushrod to determine the pusrod length you need. With the proper size pushrod, you find that the contact pattern between the rocker wheel and valve stem tip will be centered and only roll over the center 1/3 of the diameter.
Jesel sells a couple of tools to help you find the correct pushrod length, one of which is a solid aluminum dummy rocker, but I've found the manual way to produce a tighter contact pattern over the tip.
