CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion - Paint/Body

1995 Zr1 front bumper

vetteracerx — Fri, 22 May 2026 01:49:21 GMT

What is the correct way to paint the black surrounding the front turn and fog lights. Red Zr1. Thank you

Is it worth it to buy a 2008 wrapped C6?

KyleV — Mon, 18 May 2026 04:30:39 GMT

Hello, Im a new member of this community. I have some general mechanical knowledge, but this would be my first corvette. I'm in talks with someone local to buy a 2008 Corvette 6 speed manual for $27,200. It has 34,000 miles and 5 owners (according to car fax). Carfax shows a pretty good service history (mostly at dealers). Most recent owner put 10k miles in the 2 years he owned but had a valid reason to sell it.

It has long tube headers, intake, and full exhaust. He says it was professionally (HP) tuned. Good aftermarket upgrades like new drag tires and rims, head unit, short throw shifter, headlights, taillights. Test drove it and no weird noises and felt very smooth.

Everything sounds good to me except it's been wrapped. Previous owner wrapped it, so that means the wrap is atleast 2+ years old. Original color is red. I'm not sure how badly this should or would affect the value of the car. I do plan on keeping the car for many years, but ideally want atleast a fair or good deal.

Just not sure if the wrap would make this from a decent deal to a terrible one. And what I should look for? Any advice would help, looking forward to purchasing a corvette someday and being a part of this community!

Cooper's Strip Club (No, not the T&A type)

nwav8tor — Sun, 17 May 2026 05:06:10 GMT

So today, after much procrastination due to fear of the unknown, I finally began to strip the paint off BIGBLU and temporarily make her not blue. I previously tried sanding some small sections and found that to be quite difficult and time consuming. I also tried using various plastic and metal razor blade tools with and without heat. That proved to also be slow, messy work. The metal blades also had the potential to gouge the fiberglass even when the ends where rounded, Some time ago, I read on the forum about a stripping product, so I checked it out and ordered a kit hopeful that it would work well and make the job easier. Well, today I'm happy to report that I'm pleased with the product and the results!

The product is from Coopers Strip Club an outfit down in New Zealand. They have distribution and phone support in various other countries including NZ, AUS, UK & USA. It's a 2 part system consisting of a stripper and and flusher. It works to remove both paint and varnish from wood, metal and fiberglass. Check it out on-line.

2 parts. Spray stripper on and wait for paint to soften then remove with their European steel wool or a scraper. After all paint is gone, spray the flusher on and use a grit pad to work it in and then wipe clean.

I first tried it out on the metal wiper door to see how it worked. Here the softened paint is clearly visible.

I used their steel wool to remove the paint. It worked quickly for me but did take a few applications to get all the paint removed (possibly because I didn't wait long enough for the paint to soften). Then the flusher and grit pad was used to get the results shown.

Next, I tried it on a fiberglass panel I previously started to sand. The manufacturer says it's safe for fiberglass and even has a video demo online where he strips the hood of a big block C3 - I'm hoping that claim isn't hype!

This is after the first application of stripper and paint gloop removal using a plastic razor blade scraper. Again I may have rushed the process and didn't wait ling enough for the paint to fully soften since I was anxious to see how the process worked.

Each subsequent spray of the stripper softened more paint allowing removal. I'll experiment with lengthening the softening times allowed on other body sections to figure out what works best for me.

So far I am pleased with this approach to removing the paint. I plan to strip all the lower fenders and the headlight and taillight panels while the body is still up on the tall dolly so I won't have to bend down as much (remember I'm an OLD fart!:gramps:). Then I'll continue stripping the rear deck, halo and hood surround with the body back on it's low dolly. Doors, hood, t-tops and headlight lids are removed and will be done separately. How the system will work on the wiper and astro vent grills has yet to be determined.

64-67 Coupe Window Glass

66shelby427 — Thu, 07 May 2026 11:37:02 GMT

Which vendor reproduces the most accurate date tinted glass for C2s? I was considering Auto City, my concerns are their Ebay page has multiple (29) negative reviews. Poor shipping practices, improper fit, and poor quality fit / finish are the some of the reasons.

C6 Z Surgery

Idunnowmyname — Sat, 02 May 2026 23:04:54 GMT

Greetings. My 08 Z06 was punched in the face after being side swiped by a semi. Here are some pix/videos.

Structurally, it needs the front aluminum bumper reinforcement/bar cut out and a replacement welded in. I believe the two front rails also need to be tugged/pulled slightly to the passenger side (I was pushed by a semi into another semi, striking that it in a t-bone manner. Their momentum swayed the front rails slightly to the driver side).

Im fully aware that the frame is aluminum and that the car will never be what is was before this occurred. That being said, I intend to get everything straight and make it look cosmetically good, then track it as a toy instead of a garage queen as it was.

Any suggestions on best place to source the front bumper reinforcement? Also, has anyone on here utilized the fiberglass reproduction z06 style front fenders? I need the left front and literally can�t find an OE carbon fiber version. How do the fiberglass versions fit? Is one better than another? Same for the front bumper.

Thank you! Any and all advice is welcome and while you can certainly tell me �don�t waste your time these can�t be fixed/straightened, I am determined to at a minimum, give this a try! If it doesn�t go well, the car will be available with a clean title. 45k miles. Heads fixed with documentation. Cheers

Here is something fun.....54 and made it a 4 speed

csherman — Fri, 01 May 2026 22:10:40 GMT

Here is a fun project we have been working on. 1954 that the customer is converting to a V8 and a 4 speed. As folks know the 53 54 55 transmission tunnels are round and the shifter is on the side of the tunnel. At our suggestion - why not install a 56 up transmission tunnel ????
So we did - the tunnel in this car was already butchered and cut up. They customer supplied us a 56 up tunnel (very poor quality from Corvette Central - not sure who makes it but it doesnt fit - I wouldnt buy it........). We measured alot..... and cut the aftermarket tunnel apart and sectioned it and widened it and made it fit. After alot of body work we now have a 4 speed tunnel in a 54. Love it now and it will look 100 percent factory !!!! Before paint we will screw the tunnel in place just like GM did - edit - somone already asked what about the carpet - easy we are an AL Knock dealer and they will make me a 56 57 tunnel in 54 Sportsmand red in Grosspoint - even the carpet will look OE - Chris -

Bonding area build up

cmashark — Fri, 01 May 2026 14:15:25 GMT

Need a little advice. I am working on a �73 and am nearly ready to install new rear quarters, but need to fix the forward lower leg bonding area. This car had significant damage to the rear quarter and taillight panel. I�ve already replaced the taillight panel and am moving forward�. The bonding area needs to be build up, can I/should I use the West System epoxy resin and powder bound mat to repair this area prior to epoxying the rear quarters on? I understand that afterwards I would have to address amine blushing. Is there a better/smarter way?

I have, on hand: Pro Set 175/275 epoxy, West System 105/207 resin, USC polyester resin, mat for poly, powder bound mat, fiberglass cloth, and Evercoat VPA for SMC and fiberglass.

Chris