"Post a picture of your F-Body" thread?
#444
Drifting
Here is a pic of my old Firebird Formula. About 80,000 miles on it to date. Just pulled it out last year and replaced the tires, oil, belt and started driving it a bit ever now and again. Got it when I was in 11th grade in HS. Doesn't compete with my C7 Z51 at all but still fun to take out on occasions. Been garage kept since new so it's in pristine condition. Not a WS6 model just swapped out to Ram air. Would really like to have the Chrome 17" wheels to go on it also but have never found a set yet.
Last edited by speed4tu; 12-14-2016 at 09:20 AM.
#445
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: Too Far South Florida
Posts: 7,957
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2002, still under 5k miles and still 100% stock except for aluminum pedals and new Firestone Firehawk tires. (GS-Cs were hard as a rock)
Spent my 75th birthday changing the oil and filter. Car has more oil changes than miles.
Obviously I havent sold it yet
Last edited by maxgood; 12-17-2016 at 02:12 PM.
#446
Instructor
1986 Firebird be kind, ive had it so many years, it gone through many looks, still need a good left door.
68 Firebird scoops in a 86 hood, 1 of 3 notchback, TA hood vents in the sail panel [ gets so dam hot in side, was trying to get some air to actually come in the windows ] A rear mounted tach [ only LED tach that matches the redline, #1 reason was to keep ***** off my butt, so they can see the rise and fall and realize its a stick, it worked wonders ]
inverted stock wing, did have plan to include a gear indicator in the rear also, but never finished it. Hood pins on the notch are there just to hold it down flat, it still locks as normal. Just the struts are so strong they would flex the right corner up.
vid is the last time it ran "right" Had it apart to fix rust in floor n LCA area, It now has both Alston and BMR sub frame connectors, also front and rear STBs, while working on it I did not notice the body ground wire was slowly breaking, was down to 3 strands. It messed something up back. Acts like a stuck choke but is FI. had injectors out, regulator checks out, disabled the cold start injectors, new MAF, runs fine for a few mins then get crazy rich, do had a new TPS n CTS to put on but well im buying a Vette now, not sure what ill do with it. had it 15+ years.
68 Firebird scoops in a 86 hood, 1 of 3 notchback, TA hood vents in the sail panel [ gets so dam hot in side, was trying to get some air to actually come in the windows ] A rear mounted tach [ only LED tach that matches the redline, #1 reason was to keep ***** off my butt, so they can see the rise and fall and realize its a stick, it worked wonders ]
inverted stock wing, did have plan to include a gear indicator in the rear also, but never finished it. Hood pins on the notch are there just to hold it down flat, it still locks as normal. Just the struts are so strong they would flex the right corner up.
vid is the last time it ran "right" Had it apart to fix rust in floor n LCA area, It now has both Alston and BMR sub frame connectors, also front and rear STBs, while working on it I did not notice the body ground wire was slowly breaking, was down to 3 strands. It messed something up back. Acts like a stuck choke but is FI. had injectors out, regulator checks out, disabled the cold start injectors, new MAF, runs fine for a few mins then get crazy rich, do had a new TPS n CTS to put on but well im buying a Vette now, not sure what ill do with it. had it 15+ years.
Last edited by Buick350X; 01-07-2017 at 12:01 AM.
#450
1999 z28, front end conversion to 1993-1997 style.
#451
Another pic.
#453
I like the Lt1 nose. Looks meaner. I don't like the round lights, especially since it looks like Chrysler lights.
#454
Melting Slicks
Just recently had the TA tinted and a system put in. Love daily driving this car.
#457
Instructor
This F Body just landed at my house. I was told the build sheet shows it to be a Z/28 previous owner said it had front and rear anti sway bars. Whats the best way to tell if it is a real Z/28?
Last edited by 76bomb; 01-26-2018 at 08:29 PM. Reason: How can I tell if it is a real Z/28?