Dominic Toretto

What are the problems/issues with these cars?

-Alex

NW-99SS

15 year 4th gen F-body owner here

1. Rearend - from an S10, weak especially on manual cars.
2. Interior - Firebird (TA/Formula included) all seem to crack at the top by the window for some reason. Speaking of interior, they are "weak." What I mean is that, unless they are meticulously cared for, and the car treated very gently, they break down all over the place. If looked after, they can be nice and comfortable (years ago, I did take mine on multiple long distance road trips with great fuel economy and comfort).
3. Brakes - factory rotors are garbage on LS1 4th gens. I think they warped if you looked at them funny. A set of aftermarket rotors are inexpensive, and paired with a good set of brake pads offer excellent braking performance. I spent quite a bit on a Wilwood front and rear kit on my car - way overkill.
4. Piston slap - a lot of the LS1s were notorious for piston slap. Goes away once warmed up.
5. Lower control arms - stamped steel stock pieces will give axle-hop on hard launches. I run UMI adjustables and relocated the mounting points lower as my car has a 1.5" drop.

There are others that can be quickly identified, but these stick out most in my mind as the top problem areas. A well-looked after example is my suggestion, garage kept, interior clean, etc. unless you want to build a race car.

leadfoot4

Depending on where you're located, or where the cars you find, came from, rust could be an issue.....

wu6fiend

NW-99SS has done a good job of stating some of the common issues, although I haven't had any trouble with regard to my rear end, piston slap, interior bits, or even brakes.

The three most common issues with these cars are power window motors (weak from the factory, but relatively easy to change), headlight motors (again, relatively easy to fix and doesn't cost a lot either) and cracking interior door panels (this is particular to the 1998-2002 models of the Trans Am, earlier ones don't seem to suffer from this problem). My door panels, luckily are in great shape, as is the rest of my interior.

I've owned my TA Firehawk since 2001, and used to drive it all months of the year, including even in light snow. Its been a great car, and one that I will likely never part with). It gets really good mileage on the highway with the 6 speed manual, and has really comfortable seats. The interior is cramped, though, and it is noisy and rough riding, compared to modern cars.

If you can find a nice, unmolested 2001-02 Trans Am, I would say go for it.

NW-99SS

Good point wu6fiend, I forgot about the window motors. How many kms on your Hawk?

I have just about 63000 on my 1999 SS.

leadfoot4

I have a '96 Z/28 with 80,000 miles on it. Yeah, I've replaced the power window motors. Not too big of a deal, once you make a template that allows you to drill an access hole, so you can get at the "hidden" mounting screw....or was it a rivet, I don't remember.

What annoys me, right now, is one of the window guide rollers has gotten loose, and they don't make replacements, or at least not since I last searched, which was last summer. My driver's side window rattles like some old "hoopty"....

Mike 92LX

I run 1LE bushings in the stock lower rear arms that I boxed on my 99 Z28 B4C. No hop.

01-02 good year. More power due to LS6 intake and no egr despite smaller camshaft.

Dashs seem to crack

Manuals needs a new clutch and master cylinder. Stock stuff is not very good

Rear is okay if car is an auto. LPW Girdle,weld your tubes,solid crush sleeve and under 410 gears should survive 1.6 sixtys on an auto.

wu6fiend

I have 147K km (about 80K miles) on my Hawk. Only put a couple of thousand km on it over the last 5+ years, so it doesn't get driven very much.

Since I bought it 13 years ago, I have had to replace the following: both window motors, both headlight motors, the battery, and water pump. Most of this was under the extended GM warranty. Its a fairly simple car to work on, except for the engine access, which is terrible. I even did the plug change, which was no where near as bad as I'd been led to believe.

leadfoot4

Because you have a '99, with the LS1, I believe it's easier than on the earlier 4th gens, those with the LT1 engine. I've changed my plugs a couple of times, and although it sounds crazy, the first thing I do is get the car up off the ground, and drop the "Y" pipe/front portions of the exhaust system. At that point, 7 of the plugs are a breeze, with the #2 plug being the only difficult one. Because my car has never been out in the winter, it's rust free, so dropping the exhaust takes only 20 minutes, or so.

NW-99SS

The only failed items on my 99 that I replaced under warranty was the fuel pump (my fault a bit, hot day, <1/8 of a tank in town - cooked it), and the sail panel speakers.

My stock brake rotors were warped and vibrated badly over 100 km/hr so I ordered the Wilwood kit, but looking back would have just replaced the rotors and pads.

As it sits now, mine has Patriot heads, Brian Tooley custom grind cam, Jesel shaft rockers, Hinson upgraded C5R chain, blueprinted oil pump, LS6 valley cover and PCV, LS6 intake (for now, will be going FAST or MSD), Meziere EWP, Katech tensioner, Kooks stepped 1 3/4" - 1 7/8" long tubes + full Kooks true dual 3" exhaust, HP tuners, Spec stage 3 clutch and billet flywheel.

UMI 3 point sub frame connectors, adjustable torque arm, upper and lower panhard bars, lower control arms w/relocation brackets, and a Hotchkiss strut brace. Wilwood 6 piston front and 4 piston rear brakes with 2 piece rotors and stainless lines. Carbon fiber driveshaft and Lingenfelter girdle. Line lock and Wilwood proportioning valve as well.

Lots more, but kept all stock parts (don't ever plan on going back, but hey, someone might want them one day).

It's a garage queen, never seen snow, and no rain for the last 10 years. Just finishing the custom cam install and then going for dyno tune.

Dominic Toretto

Thanks for all of the great advise guys!

-Alex

wu6fiend

I didn't have to touch the exhaust. The whole plug change process, from start to finish, was about 2 hours, and we (a buddy and I) weren't in any hurry. We did the driver side first. We loosened the bracket holding the coil packs on the passenger side, so we could move it up and a little out of the way, which gave easier access to the #8 plug, which is the one everybody always curses about.

I also thought the LS1 was worse to work on than the LT1, but I could be wrong, having never owned a '93-'97 4th Gen.

I've never had to do anything to the interior of mine, except replace the tiny red bulbs in the doors that shine on the lock and window switches, and replace the even tinier LED lights in the steering wheel stereo controls.

I have done a few wear items, like a fuel filter, rotors, pads, rad flush, diff oil change (mine has the Auburn diff, an optional SLP part), O2 sensors, and lots of oil changes.

Dominic Toretto

I know 90s and early GM cars had issues with interiors. I had a 2001 Corvette and the door panel lamination started peeling. I know there may still be a few vendors that provide hydrocarboning parts so, that would be interesting.

If I end up getting one, I'd go with either an 01 or 02. Any problems with the T-tops leaking?

-Alex

NW-99SS

Not on my 99 or my friend's 02. If going in an automatic touchless car wash, you may get some drips.

Dominic Toretto

What are the upgrades for the WS6 over a standard TA?

-Alex

leadfoot4

Mostly upgraded suspension bits and pieces, and IIRC, it also included the 'Ram Air' option.

Dominic Toretto

That's just the hood right?

-Alex

leadfoot4

The hood, as well as the "underhood" ducting, that directs the outside air, picked up by the scoops, to a special air cleaner inlet.

wu6fiend

All the "experts" always say "get an 01 or 02, they are the best, with the LS6 intake". The power difference between those two years, and the earlier ones with the LS1 are negligible. I would say go with the car with the least miles, in the best condition. Regardless of what year it is.

With regard to the T-tops, mine have never leaked. I put the GM silicone emulsion stuff on them from time to time, and leave the car in the hot sun for a few hours. This stuff soaks into the rubber, keeps it nice and soft, and the seals swell up in the sun, so the tops seal better. You can buy it at any GM parts counter.

wu6fiend

The WS6 hood and all the "ram air" stuff is nearly 100% marketing. The lions share of the air comes in from below, just like all Firebirds (and all Camaros) of this generation.

The only difference between the WS6-equipped cars and the other Firebirds is the air filter assembly is raised up a bit, so it lines up with the raised hood's nostrils. Some owners of non-WS6 cars have retro-fitted the raised air box to their cars; this makes no difference whatsoever power wise. Looks cool, though.

WS6 package = hood, wheels, exhaust, shocks, $250 badge, "ram air" stickers and commands a significant price difference on the used market.

All LS1 V8 4th Gens make almost exactly the same hp, no matter what year, and no matter whether they are a Formula, regular TA, TA or Formula WS6, or Firehawk.

Anybody claiming any different is just a sucker for marketing.

If you come across a nice, clean V8 Trans Am (non-WS6), that would be a nice starter car. You could customize it exactly to your liking, and you could pay a lot less than a car equipped with WS6 parts from the factory.

Good luck, and keep us updated on the results of your search!