Z062

I got my car back (62) from the body shop in primer so I could take care of the chassis detail myself. I have posted and recieved some great help on the howto's of removing the body. My sticking point now is lift points. since my freinds are always scarce when there's work to be done I designed a jig to lift the body myself with the help of a cherry picker. I have designed it to use the conv top cover hinges, the dash bolts closest to the door opening on either side of the dash where the metal is overlaid, and the radiator support, all of theses braces welded together on a 1/4 thick piece of 2 inch angle iron so it is one big solid assembly. I have also fashioned a steel pole that bolts into the hinge mount holes and the latch reciever for each door opening to prevent any movement. Has anyone done this or does anyone have a better setup to lift the body. I havent welded the jig yet so there is time to change my mind. I will have the door bars finished tomorrow and would like to get started on the jig. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx :flag

67's

I did it with 8 of my closest friends, I think Allenz on the C-2 page did it with a cherry picker but I might be wrong.

Tom

Mac

The only thing that comes to mind, given your description of the jig, would be stability. As you are lifting, all points need to be supported and that's going to be a mean trick from the single lift point of a cherry picker. If you get too much lift, especially at the nose, it could cause a multitude of problems.

Have you ever seen a lift stabilizer, most often used for pulling an engine? They're available commercially, like this one from TP Tools. It might help....

At the end of the road, it's still easier to buy a case of beer to attract many hands- hint: serve the beer after the lift, not before.

JmpnJckFlsh

Being totally ignorant of C1s, I don't know what the convertible top cover hinges attach to, but I would not attempt to lift the body using any lift points that were ultimately attached only to the fiberglass skin. If they attach to some steel sub-frame like the later cars have, they should be OK.

Also, if those top cover hinges are hard to find or expensive, you may want to consider fabricating some simple steel brackets to take their place.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 9:45 PM 1/2/2002]

Z062

my jig will effectivly be like the engine tilter your showing, except in the place of chains will be solid mounts. I plan to trial lift it to find the center of gravity then weld on a hook. Someone posted that they lifted from 3in back from the front door hinge, thats about where I planned to start. All of the points I mentioned I plan to use are places where the metal is reinforcing the fiberglass for structure. I didnt want to use the door hinges because there doesnt seem to be anything there but a floating metal plate. Is there more steel inside the door im not seeing?

Thanx

Mac

The main advantage of the tilter is you can adjust the angle of lift in a controlled manner by means of a threaded rod. It's not easy to see in that small jpg. The chains are better than a solid connection because you can see how much tension is on each chain easily.

My understanding is the door plates on C1s are exactly that- door plates, not connected to anything else (ie: don't use for lifting) but I'm far from expert.

Are you completely sold on lifting with the jig and cherry picker? Another way to separate the body from the chassis is to lift the whole car, brace under the body at several strategic locations, pull all the body mount bolts and slowly lower the chassis. All you need is a good set of adjustable jack stands, a floor jack and some wood for bracing.

Why go to all the bother of building a jig which you'll use once (well, twice, if you count putting it all back together again) when you don't have to? Save your time and money for the car! Have you planned for a rolling support cart to put the body onto once you separate it from the chassis?