New from Coeur d'Alene, Idaho!!
08-02-2016, 02:36 PM
#1
2nd Gear
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New from Coeur d'Alene, Idaho!!
Love my C5 that I have had since 2000.
My daily driver. Starting to plan a totally rebuild, LS376/525, tranny upgrade, seats, stereo, brakes and assorted other fun stuff!
My daily driver. Starting to plan a totally rebuild, LS376/525, tranny upgrade, seats, stereo, brakes and assorted other fun stuff!
08-03-2016, 09:31 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
Welcome! We need pics of your snow season setup! Like a boss!
08-03-2016, 11:32 AM
#7
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My snow setup is the garage! I switch to my Jeep Rubicon for the slick months. Mainly Nov-Feb in N. Idaho...Looking to do the LS376/525 swap in the slick months..
works out!
works out!
11-06-2018, 03:58 PM
#9
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Winter
Additionally, which, if any, Chevrolet dealers do you trust with your car?
Last edited by Dr DSL; 11-06-2018 at 04:05 PM. Reason: add
11-06-2018, 04:21 PM
#10
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Last Activity: 08-03-2016 12:09 PM
11-06-2018, 05:17 PM
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Welcome and hope to see you posting in the C5 sections.
11-07-2018, 10:43 AM
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Check out the C5 General for tips on winterizing, and the regional area of the forum for info. on dealers or shops in your area.
11-07-2018, 11:08 AM
#16
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Welcome aboard.....BTW, great golf out there. 
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11-07-2018, 12:52 PM
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Welcome!
Some suggestions for winter storage are below. I will advise that there are “pros and cons” with almost all of these suggestions and will try to hit upon them within the suggestions.
1. Oil change. When do you change the oil?
The idea of changing the oil before putting your “baby” away for the winter is that you will leave clean oil – without any contaminants - in the engine.
Others suggest leaving the oil in place and changing just before driving the car next spring since this will remove any moisture that may have formed in the engine during storage.
With an oil change being as relatively inexpensive as it is, especially if you do it yourself, you can change your oil before storage so you have no contaminants affecting your engine parts during storage and then change again when you start to drive to remove any moisture. Overkill, perhaps, but $40 or so extra for my car once a year probably isn’t going to bankrupt me. (I am lucky, though, and live in a climate where I can still get the car out some during the winter months, so it’s easy for me to spend your money.
).
2. Fuel. Use Techron in your gas tank for your last drive before putting the car away for winter. This will help clean the fuel line and injectors. Top off your gas tank for storage and add Sta-bil to absorb moisture.
3. Other Fluids. Top off all your fluids (brakes, clutch, radiator, transmission). Also run the air conditioner before putting the car away for the winter to lubricate the A/C compressor seals.
4. Battery. Another idea with different approaches.
Some prefer to remove the battery and store it using a trickle charger during the winter. If you remove your battery, do not place it directly on concrete. Also remember a battery puts off hydrogen gas which is very flammable.
Others prefer to leave the battery in the car and keep it on a trickle charger. (I believe most will recommend removing the negative battery cable for this storage method).
Either of these methods will provide you a ready-to-use battery when start up time comes (and start-up time is never soon enough).
5. Clean your car – inside and out. Clean your wheels and tires, too. When cleaning the inside, pay attention to all the leather surfaces. You want to remove any sweat you may have transferred to the leather (seat contains acid - not good for leather). Treat the leather with your preferred leather treatment (Adams, Lexol, Meguiars, 303, etc). Place some desiccant blocks or bags on your dash, floorboards, cargo area, and in the engine area. (Stay-dri or DampRid are examples of these products). Also place a few boxes of DampRid, or a comparable product around the outside of your car to trap moisture.
6. Car Cover. Use a car cover even if stored inside to keep dust off. A simple cotton cover will work good if inside; if storing your car outside, of course, you want a good weatherproof cover such as those with Evolution 3 or Tyvek. If stored outside, remove the cover periodically to let air get to the car and dry out any moisture that might have collected. You especially want to do this after rain.
7. Mothballs/dryer sheets. To help scare away critters, place mothballs or dryer sheets inside your car (place on small plates so any moisture from the product will not sit on upholstered, carpeted or painted areas). Also place on your engine block, especially near the plug wires. Mice/rats love the oil-based insulating outer layer found in many manufacturers’ plug wires. REMOVE mothballs/dryer sheetsbefore your start your car for your spring drives!
8. Tail pipes. Put rags or towels in the exhaust pipe openings to keep furry critters from using this area to nest. You can also wrap towels around your exhaust pipes and secure with wire or heavy duty rubber bands. Another alternative is to put steel wool in the exhaust pipes. Whatever you use, REMEMBER to remove before starting your car!
9. Tires. There are different thoughts on this one, too.
Some like to put their car up on blocks and remove the wheels/tires However, others will argue that this is not good since the suspension is fully extended compressing the seals in the shock absorber during the several months of storage and could cause leakage when you start driving the car again.
Others like to use a curved ramp under the tires to prevent the flat spots. There are multiple varieties of these including Bunkerwall, Park Smart, Park Right, Race Ramps FlatStoppers, etc. If you go this route, price check. Some of these devices can cost 3-4 times as much as others. See if the customer evaluations justify the added cost but also remember that with care the tire ramps will last you the life of the car so you get to spread out the cost over a period of time.
Still another practice for tire care during storage is to air up the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall. With the added air pressure the tires are less pliable and more resistant to flat spotting. This is the cheapest approach and with modern radial tire design flat spotting is usually corrected by driving the car at lower speeds and letting the tires warm up and return to full roundness. IF you use the added air pressure approach, REMEMBER to reduce the air pressure to your normal driving pressure (~30# air).
10. Starting your car during “hibernation”. Here, again, are mixed reviews.
Some recommend starting the car once a month while it is stored. Of course, if you have the battery out you’ll need to replace it and then remove it again after running the car. And, you will also need to remove the covers from the exhaust pipes.
Others will advise against starting the car during storage months, and only recommend starting the car if it will be driven. (Which also means putting the wheels back on if you have removed them). Their thought is that starting your engine is basically the hardest thing for it. Simply starting and idling your car will not typically remove all the condensation so why not wait for spring?
I’m sure other members will have even better thoughts or ideas for winter storage but hopefully this will give you some areas of preparation to consider.
Best wishes and here’s hoping for an early spring!
Larry
Some suggestions for winter storage are below. I will advise that there are “pros and cons” with almost all of these suggestions and will try to hit upon them within the suggestions.
1. Oil change. When do you change the oil?
The idea of changing the oil before putting your “baby” away for the winter is that you will leave clean oil – without any contaminants - in the engine.
Others suggest leaving the oil in place and changing just before driving the car next spring since this will remove any moisture that may have formed in the engine during storage.
With an oil change being as relatively inexpensive as it is, especially if you do it yourself, you can change your oil before storage so you have no contaminants affecting your engine parts during storage and then change again when you start to drive to remove any moisture. Overkill, perhaps, but $40 or so extra for my car once a year probably isn’t going to bankrupt me. (I am lucky, though, and live in a climate where I can still get the car out some during the winter months, so it’s easy for me to spend your money.
).2. Fuel. Use Techron in your gas tank for your last drive before putting the car away for winter. This will help clean the fuel line and injectors. Top off your gas tank for storage and add Sta-bil to absorb moisture.
3. Other Fluids. Top off all your fluids (brakes, clutch, radiator, transmission). Also run the air conditioner before putting the car away for the winter to lubricate the A/C compressor seals.
4. Battery. Another idea with different approaches.
Some prefer to remove the battery and store it using a trickle charger during the winter. If you remove your battery, do not place it directly on concrete. Also remember a battery puts off hydrogen gas which is very flammable.
Others prefer to leave the battery in the car and keep it on a trickle charger. (I believe most will recommend removing the negative battery cable for this storage method).
Either of these methods will provide you a ready-to-use battery when start up time comes (and start-up time is never soon enough).
5. Clean your car – inside and out. Clean your wheels and tires, too. When cleaning the inside, pay attention to all the leather surfaces. You want to remove any sweat you may have transferred to the leather (seat contains acid - not good for leather). Treat the leather with your preferred leather treatment (Adams, Lexol, Meguiars, 303, etc). Place some desiccant blocks or bags on your dash, floorboards, cargo area, and in the engine area. (Stay-dri or DampRid are examples of these products). Also place a few boxes of DampRid, or a comparable product around the outside of your car to trap moisture.
6. Car Cover. Use a car cover even if stored inside to keep dust off. A simple cotton cover will work good if inside; if storing your car outside, of course, you want a good weatherproof cover such as those with Evolution 3 or Tyvek. If stored outside, remove the cover periodically to let air get to the car and dry out any moisture that might have collected. You especially want to do this after rain.
7. Mothballs/dryer sheets. To help scare away critters, place mothballs or dryer sheets inside your car (place on small plates so any moisture from the product will not sit on upholstered, carpeted or painted areas). Also place on your engine block, especially near the plug wires. Mice/rats love the oil-based insulating outer layer found in many manufacturers’ plug wires. REMOVE mothballs/dryer sheetsbefore your start your car for your spring drives!
8. Tail pipes. Put rags or towels in the exhaust pipe openings to keep furry critters from using this area to nest. You can also wrap towels around your exhaust pipes and secure with wire or heavy duty rubber bands. Another alternative is to put steel wool in the exhaust pipes. Whatever you use, REMEMBER to remove before starting your car!
9. Tires. There are different thoughts on this one, too.
Some like to put their car up on blocks and remove the wheels/tires However, others will argue that this is not good since the suspension is fully extended compressing the seals in the shock absorber during the several months of storage and could cause leakage when you start driving the car again.
Others like to use a curved ramp under the tires to prevent the flat spots. There are multiple varieties of these including Bunkerwall, Park Smart, Park Right, Race Ramps FlatStoppers, etc. If you go this route, price check. Some of these devices can cost 3-4 times as much as others. See if the customer evaluations justify the added cost but also remember that with care the tire ramps will last you the life of the car so you get to spread out the cost over a period of time.
Still another practice for tire care during storage is to air up the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewall. With the added air pressure the tires are less pliable and more resistant to flat spotting. This is the cheapest approach and with modern radial tire design flat spotting is usually corrected by driving the car at lower speeds and letting the tires warm up and return to full roundness. IF you use the added air pressure approach, REMEMBER to reduce the air pressure to your normal driving pressure (~30# air).
10. Starting your car during “hibernation”. Here, again, are mixed reviews.
Some recommend starting the car once a month while it is stored. Of course, if you have the battery out you’ll need to replace it and then remove it again after running the car. And, you will also need to remove the covers from the exhaust pipes.
Others will advise against starting the car during storage months, and only recommend starting the car if it will be driven. (Which also means putting the wheels back on if you have removed them). Their thought is that starting your engine is basically the hardest thing for it. Simply starting and idling your car will not typically remove all the condensation so why not wait for spring?
I’m sure other members will have even better thoughts or ideas for winter storage but hopefully this will give you some areas of preparation to consider.
Best wishes and here’s hoping for an early spring!
Larry
