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Anyone use A/C Pro air conditioning recharge?

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Anyone use A/C Pro air conditioning recharge?

 
Old 06-17-2017, 08:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TGO View Post
Don't put that **** in your AC.

If your AC needs a "charge." It has a leak somewhere. This is a band aid. And will make future servicing of the system a headache and more expensive when the leak eventually returns.
I call

I put it in my daughters Saturn 4 years ago and it's still going strong.
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:36 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sky High View Post
And how is it ****? It's 134a just like anything else. Now what are you saying there are different grades of 134a and some are better than others? lol You don't have to get it with the sealer.
Well I mean if you look at the video they are advertising a "fully synthetic formula" with "superior cooling power." So according to the brand you're defending...yeah there are. However I did not say that.

If you can get it without the sealer then do that and let it keep leaking, like I already said. Otherwise I stand by my claim. I would not run a sealer through my AC system.


There's a lot more to having a properly functioning AC system than buying a can at Autozone. There's a reason real shops have all that equipment to do the job right.

Last edited by TGO; 06-18-2017 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 06-18-2017, 03:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TGO View Post
The point you guys are missing is what sealers can do to the internal workings of your AC system.

It can clog your evap core.

It can clog your orifice tube.

It reduces the dryers ability to remove moisture from the system.

That's not even getting in to how cheap and inaccurate that gauge on the can is. And the problems that can come from overfilling your system as well.

ALL of these things will add up to a lot more than what it would have cost to have the leak pinpointed, fixed and have the system properly evacuated and refilled. But hey it will work for a few months right?

If you and Billy Bob wanna take the cheap route thinking you're helping yourself out...you'd be better off just adding straight refrigerant every few weeks and let it continue to leak out slowly.

If your system has depressurized then I'd fix it properly because you definitely have moisture in there which - yes - will be catastrophic.

As far as trading the car and dumping it on someone else...that's your decision.



You guys use fix a flat too?
Originally Posted by Sky High View Post
A/C Fact: The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) designed the A/C fittings that are on your vehicle. These fittings have a SAE acceptable leakage rate of 1/4 ounce of refrigerant per year per fitting. That does not sound like a lot, but the average vehicle has 8 fittings. This means that you are losing 2 ounces of refrigerant per year. It is recommended that you service your air conditioning every 2 years. This will ensure that your compressor is never “starving” for oil. The older vehicles used to have systems that held upwards of 36 ounces of refrigerant. Today’s vehicles have much smaller systems that require as little as 15 ounces of refrigerant. The need to service your air conditioning has become much more important with these reduced capacities or system damage will occur. I honestly don't think it looses this much but some seepage over time does happen.
Originally Posted by TGO View Post
Well I mean if you look at the video they are advertising a "fully synthetic formula" with "superior cooling power." So according to the brand you're defending...yeah there are. However I did not say that.

If you can get it without the sealer then do that and let it keep leaking, like I already said. Otherwise I stand by my claim. I would not run a sealer through my AC system.


There's a lot more to having a properly functioning AC system than buying a can at Autozone. There's a reason real shops have all that equipment to do the job right.
Did. Not. Read.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Little Red L98 View Post
Did. Not. Read.
folks, you really need to post up a videos with your written comments so little redass can follow along - - - help the poor guy out . . .

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Old 06-18-2017, 11:15 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Sky High View Post
$40 bucks a can? They are $8.99 in Auto Zone.
I've never bought a can, for me it's easier to purchase a 30# jug...that way it's always on hand, ready to use, and cheaper.
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Old 06-18-2017, 11:25 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 71 Green 454 View Post
I've never bought a can, for me it's easier to purchase a 30# jug...that way it's always on hand, ready to use, and cheaper.
Unless your using that stuff like crazy, for the average person that uses it once in a blue moon I don't see a reason to spend $129 to have it on hand. Having a can or two around for the occasional 5 year usage is fine by me.
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Old 06-18-2017, 11:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sky High View Post
Unless your using that stuff like crazy, for the average person that uses it once in a blue moon I don't see a reason to spend $129 to have it on hand. Having a can or two around for the occasional 5 year usage is fine by me.
That's what they said when I purchased jugs of R12.
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Old 06-18-2017, 06:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post
I buy mine off ebay by the case so I have it for family and friends comes out to about 4 bucks a can. I find that most the time it is the fill valve leaking. Just pull off the cap and finger a bit of spit in it and look for bubbles. It is a very easy fix to remove the valve core and replace with out losing freon.
How do you replace the Schrader (valve core) valve without losing the freon?
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by dstiger View Post
Thanks for the replies-

I had not thought about the "gunk up your equipment" aspect.

If the car was a beater, probably would use it.

But I have an low mile Supercharged 04 F150 that I have had from new, and plan on keeping a long while.

AC blows cool cold, but not ice cold. I have never had it serviced. So 13 years, original freon.

My C6Z06 will freeze you out on the hottest of hot days- so I have that for comparison to the truck.
If its a low mile meaning it doesn't get driven much then just put some regular freon in it and forget about it. The compressor uses a wick type sealing system, and if the system is not run enough to keep the seal wet some freon will eventually leak out especially on Fords. There is probably nothing wrong with it, stop over thinking it.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:17 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post
I would only add freon only if needed is it on recycle? Your cab is bigger in your truck.
You mean recirculate?
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:24 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by centuryoldracer View Post
How do you replace the Schrader (valve core) valve without losing the freon?
Why is that crazy? If you lose the freon you have to do all kinds of work and replace the freon that is.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:28 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post
Why is that crazy? If you lose the freon you have to do all kinds of work and replace the freon that is.
You know what makes this response even funnier?
You have no idea whatsoever?
I'm going to let someone else say why your response is so funny.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:33 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by centuryoldracer View Post
You know what makes this response even funnier?
You have no idea whatsoever?
I'm going to let someone else say why your response is so funny.
So you are just ******* with me? And I have no idea? I have done it many times.
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Old 06-18-2017, 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 71 Green 454 View Post
That's what they said when I purchased jugs of R12.
I hear ya there. R-12 is like gold now. How much is a 30lb can now, something like $450-$500 bucks? Individual cans 12-14oz sell for $30 bucks on E-bay.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by centuryoldracer View Post
How do you replace the Schrader (valve core) valve without losing the freon?

If you seriously do not know how to do this let me know.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post


If you seriously do not know how to do this let me know.
Ok I'll play along. How are you going to replace the Schrader valve in a system that already has freon in it without losing the freon
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post


If you seriously do not know how to do this let me know.
Originally Posted by centuryoldracer View Post
Ok I'll play along. How are you going to replace the Schrader valve in a system that already has freon in it without losing the freon

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Old 06-18-2017, 10:11 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ratflinger View Post

Can't wait to hear this one.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:14 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by centuryoldracer View Post
Ok I'll play along. How are you going to replace the Schrader valve in a system that already has freon in it without losing the freon



With this I have removed many cores without losing whatever is in it. It has a ball valve that you can remove the core through then shut it to hold pressure. Good to see even after a century you are still willing to learn.

Damn no wonder every one thinks I am a know it all. Looks like the one eyed man is king in the land of the blind.

Last edited by antfarmer2; 06-18-2017 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:25 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2 View Post


With this I have removed many cores without losing whatever is in it. It has a ball valve that you can remove the core through then shut it to hold pressure. Good to see even after a century you are still willing to learn.

Damn no wonder every one thinks I am a know it all. Looks like the one eyed man is king in the land of the blind.
Please put the shovel down and stop digging You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
Is that some kind of screen shot of a utube video
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