Troublesome Yukon Denali -- what would you do?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Troublesome Yukon Denali -- what would you do?
I've reached a crossroads with the best vehicle I've ever owned (not counting my '03 Corvette coupe). My 2003 GMC Yukon Denali, which I bought new, has hit the 182,000 mile mark along with old-age issues that are more than nickel-and-diming me.
The water pump went out in January. Had it replaced.
The radiator went out a week later. Had it replaced.
The power driver's seat works intermittently, but I'm living with it.
It now has an oil leak that requires topping off about 1/2 quart every couple weeks in lieu of an expensive repair because it's in a hard-to-access part of the engine.
The AC has started blowing only out the defrost vents because of a faulty blend door (that's what the shop says). Fairly spendy fix because they need to get into the dash. We are living with it, although being in AZ the AC isn't so cold after it blows onto a hot windshield.
Leather seats have worn through in places and there are enough dings and scrapes on the exterior to make it a true 40-footer.
And the past few days we notice the windshield washer reservoir won't hold fluid; "low coolant level" message flashes even though tank is full (bad sensor?); "service brake system" message appears (wheel sensor?); electronics on the rear-view mirror are out; radio won't work because the fuse keeps blowing.
I told myself in January that I wouldn't spend another dollar on it, but now I'm debating again whether it would be wise to get these issues fixed, which probably would result in me having spent more in the past year than what it is worth. But I also wonder if it's time to say good bye to the old friend and buy something else.
I would appreciate any thoughts you may have.
The water pump went out in January. Had it replaced.
The radiator went out a week later. Had it replaced.
The power driver's seat works intermittently, but I'm living with it.
It now has an oil leak that requires topping off about 1/2 quart every couple weeks in lieu of an expensive repair because it's in a hard-to-access part of the engine.
The AC has started blowing only out the defrost vents because of a faulty blend door (that's what the shop says). Fairly spendy fix because they need to get into the dash. We are living with it, although being in AZ the AC isn't so cold after it blows onto a hot windshield.
Leather seats have worn through in places and there are enough dings and scrapes on the exterior to make it a true 40-footer.
And the past few days we notice the windshield washer reservoir won't hold fluid; "low coolant level" message flashes even though tank is full (bad sensor?); "service brake system" message appears (wheel sensor?); electronics on the rear-view mirror are out; radio won't work because the fuse keeps blowing.
I told myself in January that I wouldn't spend another dollar on it, but now I'm debating again whether it would be wise to get these issues fixed, which probably would result in me having spent more in the past year than what it is worth. But I also wonder if it's time to say good bye to the old friend and buy something else.
I would appreciate any thoughts you may have.
#2
Melting Slicks
While only you know your financial situation (can you afford to replace the vehicle?), I would suggest that with such a list of issues, the time to say goodbye to your old friend has arrived. A fully functioning AC system is pretty important in AZ, and the various problems you are experiencing are only going to continue, and get worse. Unless you enjoy fiddling with cars all the time, and enjoy searching out the cheapest sources of parts, I would start looking for a new (to you) vehicle. There have been two generations of full size GM SUV since yours; each has offered significant improvements in performance and tons of comfort and convenience features over its predecessor. Unless you want to pay the $70K admission price for the latest Denali, I would find a 2013-2014 used model with low mileage, for a significant saving. I had a look at Craigslist in Phoenix, just out of curiosity, and found many 2011-2014 era Denalis for sale in the $25K - $35K range. Or, see if you can find a left over 2016 or 2017 Denali that a dealer wants to move, considering the 2018s are out, now. I love my 2016.
#3
Race Director
The default position is to the windshield on most cars, vacuum moves the door. It could be something as simple as a vacuum leak. Most shops won't fix a simple vacuum leak that is not enough $$. I would think on the A/C there should be a way to rig it to blow out the vents at all times which wouldn't be so bad in A/Z it shouldn't be humid enough there to need the defrost much.
I have a 2010 Tahoe and it is going good at 168k miles, only things that don't work are the rear window squirter and the passenger power fold mirror. Both of which I can live without since all else still works good.
I have a 2010 Tahoe and it is going good at 168k miles, only things that don't work are the rear window squirter and the passenger power fold mirror. Both of which I can live without since all else still works good.
#4
Race Director
You are always better off fixing a vehicle. If you put 4k into it, can you replace the vehicle for that much? I know the answer is no. The question is, how much is not having to worry about more issues worth to you? If it's worth 70k, then go replace it with a new one and hope for the best.
But let me give one solid piece of advice. They do NOT build stuff as well as they used to. They build stuff with the warranty period in mind. If the DI system fails in a new vehicle, be prepared for se real expense. The automakers don't want you to drive your old car forever, they want you to trade it lightly used on a new one.
Your current vehicle is fixable. And from a time when quality was expected. It may have some minor irritations over the years, but it's all fixable, fairly easily and inexpensively too.
But let me give one solid piece of advice. They do NOT build stuff as well as they used to. They build stuff with the warranty period in mind. If the DI system fails in a new vehicle, be prepared for se real expense. The automakers don't want you to drive your old car forever, they want you to trade it lightly used on a new one.
Your current vehicle is fixable. And from a time when quality was expected. It may have some minor irritations over the years, but it's all fixable, fairly easily and inexpensively too.
#5
Team Owner
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It sounds like you are paying a garage to fix your truck as opposed to doing the repairs yourself, which can add up in a hurry, especially on an older truck. I was in almost the exact same situation (99 Suburban, 189k) and even fixing everything myself, I decided to get a new truck. Are most of the problems that you described minor ones ? Sure, but they add up to one big annoying ride. Depending on your budget, you should be able to find a nice truck for $15-20k. I would avoid anything that has DOD, as that is very expensive to fix. I just did lifters on a Tahoe, parts alone were almost $1500.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advice gang. Financially, it won't break me to move on and buy something newer and hopefully more reliable. But I also try to be as thrifty as possible and fix what's broken if it makes sense..
I'm far from a mechanic. I can do the basics, but when it comes to something somewhat complex, especially on our main mode of transportation, I'd prefer a professional handle it. I have neither the know-how nor the tools to do anything major.
Because of that, I've spent a lot already this year on repairs just to keep it running. And that doesn't factor the things I've decided to live with (AC out the defrost, leather seats ripping and splitting, power driver's seat moves only a few inches either way, oil leak, electronics on the interior mirror out, rear self adjusting shocks not working,CD player not working, low coolant message even though tank is full, etc). To spend much more will mean I've paid about as much this year as the car is worth (considering its condition)
I'm far from a mechanic. I can do the basics, but when it comes to something somewhat complex, especially on our main mode of transportation, I'd prefer a professional handle it. I have neither the know-how nor the tools to do anything major.
Because of that, I've spent a lot already this year on repairs just to keep it running. And that doesn't factor the things I've decided to live with (AC out the defrost, leather seats ripping and splitting, power driver's seat moves only a few inches either way, oil leak, electronics on the interior mirror out, rear self adjusting shocks not working,CD player not working, low coolant message even though tank is full, etc). To spend much more will mean I've paid about as much this year as the car is worth (considering its condition)
Last edited by Harley6; 11-06-2017 at 11:24 PM.
#8
Team Owner
In the OP's position, the vehicle already has 189K on the clock. That's quite a few miles, to get out of a vehicle. It now looks like he's at the point of, "If I stick another $500 into it, MAYBE it'll go another 4-5000 miles". Problem is, that's not what's happening.
#9
Safety Car
You are always better off fixing a vehicle. If you put 4k into it, can you replace the vehicle for that much? I know the answer is no. The question is, how much is not having to worry about more issues worth to you? If it's worth 70k, then go replace it with a new one and hope for the best.
But let me give one solid piece of advice. They do NOT build stuff as well as they used to. They build stuff with the warranty period in mind. If the DI system fails in a new vehicle, be prepared for se real expense. The automakers don't want you to drive your old car forever, they want you to trade it lightly used on a new one.
Your current vehicle is fixable. And from a time when quality was expected. It may have some minor irritations over the years, but it's all fixable, fairly easily and inexpensively too.
But let me give one solid piece of advice. They do NOT build stuff as well as they used to. They build stuff with the warranty period in mind. If the DI system fails in a new vehicle, be prepared for se real expense. The automakers don't want you to drive your old car forever, they want you to trade it lightly used on a new one.
Your current vehicle is fixable. And from a time when quality was expected. It may have some minor irritations over the years, but it's all fixable, fairly easily and inexpensively too.
I have to disagree, cars have gotten to be considerably more reliable and have a better overall build quality. While I won't argue the fact that sometimes it's better to spend some repair money vs. running over to the dealer at the first problem and trading in for a new one. The fact that the OP's vehicle is approaching the 200K mark which is the autumn years for the bulk of the vehicles out there. There are exceptions where you see some really high mile vehicles but that definitely represents the minority. At the current mileage you are knocking on the door for some potentially big issues (trans, engine, transfer case, front/rear diff, etc......).
If you're looking for another comparable SUV, I will tell you that the 2015+ Yukons are very nice!! I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that I purchased new and I'm very happy with it. I consider the quality and performance to be significantly better than the previous generation on pretty much every level.
#10
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
[QUOTEAnd the past few days we notice the windshield washer reservoir won't hold fluid;][/QUOTE]
Just epoxy it the replacement will crack too
Orig owner of an 02 mine cracked in less than a yr
Controller for the ac is 3-400 fix.
Comes a point you just let it go youre looking at a couple grand easy
Or keep it as a backup beater and get something else
Just epoxy it the replacement will crack too
Orig owner of an 02 mine cracked in less than a yr
Controller for the ac is 3-400 fix.
Comes a point you just let it go youre looking at a couple grand easy
Or keep it as a backup beater and get something else
#11
Melting Slicks
Sold my 04 Z71 Tahoe in '15 with 204k miles on clock.
All of the issues you mention are very common on that year/model. You haven't listed some of the other items that will eventually fail...
Pump Rub on transfer case
Junction for rear heat/AC above passenger valve cover
Intake Gaskets that throw CEL...
Mine even lost a driveshaft due to rusty U-Joint retaining tabs (that was exciting).
I'm pretty handy with a wrench, but threw in the towel when I had lifter noise at idle. I didn't want to spend $5k swapping to an LQ4/LQ9.
The issues you mention are easily fixable, but expect a few more. It'll cost less to repair compared to new but there is the hassle factor.
Wife is now driving a '15 Explorer Sport with an Extended Warranty until 100k. It cost $40k+, but she's happy and I don't have to sweat repairs.
All of the issues you mention are very common on that year/model. You haven't listed some of the other items that will eventually fail...
Pump Rub on transfer case
Junction for rear heat/AC above passenger valve cover
Intake Gaskets that throw CEL...
Mine even lost a driveshaft due to rusty U-Joint retaining tabs (that was exciting).
I'm pretty handy with a wrench, but threw in the towel when I had lifter noise at idle. I didn't want to spend $5k swapping to an LQ4/LQ9.
The issues you mention are easily fixable, but expect a few more. It'll cost less to repair compared to new but there is the hassle factor.
Wife is now driving a '15 Explorer Sport with an Extended Warranty until 100k. It cost $40k+, but she's happy and I don't have to sweat repairs.
#13
I have to disagree, cars have gotten to be considerably more reliable and have a better overall build quality. While I won't argue the fact that sometimes it's better to spend some repair money vs. running over to the dealer at the first problem and trading in for a new one. The fact that the OP's vehicle is approaching the 200K mark which is the autumn years for the bulk of the vehicles out there. There are exceptions where you see some really high mile vehicles but that definitely represents the minority. At the current mileage you are knocking on the door for some potentially big issues (trans, engine, transfer case, front/rear diff, etc......).
If you're looking for another comparable SUV, I will tell you that the 2015+ Yukons are very nice!! I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that I purchased new and I'm very happy with it. I consider the quality and performance to be significantly better than the previous generation on pretty much every level.
If you're looking for another comparable SUV, I will tell you that the 2015+ Yukons are very nice!! I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that I purchased new and I'm very happy with it. I consider the quality and performance to be significantly better than the previous generation on pretty much every level.
*all Tesla and Mitsubishi products excluded