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I know I would have done it differently but that does not mean jack squat. because I am not there an I can not see inside the scoop. And I assume they are fake and not functional....unless you cut a hole in the quarter panel. I would have made a flange...and hopefully you took other variables into consideration.
They are functional holes were already there,, they allow air into the back air vents, and the bottom scoops have a hose attached to cool the brakes, right now those are not functional because it has rear drum brakes though lol. After my final coat of epoxy primer, I will guide coat it all black, bake it out in the Florida sun for a few weeks weather permitting. Anything that would or could shrink or Telegraph( I call it print through)will show before any base coat goes on.
I was concerned that this scoop now being sealed up and is a water trap on the inside of it. So if it has drains and there can be no standing water in it......Then you are well ahead of it. Like I wrote..I am not there to see everything.
I can say that putting in the sun is great. But I can also say that the effects can take longer to show up than that. Maybe not in this repair you have done...but... I have seen stuff like this done...which I can not confirm it was done exactly like you did this...the ghost line showed up months later.
Like I always say: "We do the best we can do and hope for the best'. Doing the same thing 100 times with great success and then having a problem could be easy attributed to a bad batch lot of products or some other issue that occurred. It is so hard to cover our bases on every possible problem that can arise.
This was a lot worse than it looked Someone did a bondo repair previously Working with what I had left, I taped up to make a skin I layed up 4 layers of 6 ounce carbon fiber and let cure for a week. The back side was just as bad and cut out the metal and replaced with 6 layers of carbon fiber. Now that I have the skin I could cut what was left of the the old metal. Here is where I bonded the skin to the car using a putty made up of epoxy, aerosil, and milled fiber. This was also bonded from the back side, bonding the two together After that cured I ground everything with 80 grit and mixed an epoxy putty with epoxy, aerosil, and micro balloons. When the laminate was complete this thing is over 10 layers of carbon fiber, bonded on both sides of the metal. After this cures I added another 2 layers of carbon fiber before adding anymore fairing putty.
Sorry for lack of pics, as I’m sure you know in this line of work it can be a “sticky situation” and taking off gloves to get a phone out to take pics when things are kicking off is not the best idea.
ok. i was like whatever with the first 2 mods ...but why would you not just weld on a replacement section?
seems cheaper, faster, and correct and wont look like crap after 2 years
It would have been very expensive to have panels welded on, and not everyone welds, by doing it this way, panels can be made from scratch without the use of expensive equipment, and it will out live any metal panel.
For the time and materials to make a custom panel your argument for costs doesn't compute. Patch panels are readily available for most applications and not sure I'd want a flap of CF for a lower fender section. Any decent shop has a welder(be it TIG or MIG).
Cost of this was less than $100 in material, as for time, I probably have 6 hours in that repair, A welded panel would of still required body work after welding. As times change so do materials and adhesives, it is not that uncommon now for panels to be bonded with adheasives.
thats still a crappy repair. youre just masking the problem. how do you treat the inner wheel and trunk section? it looks It seems like overkill with not so good results. for something that can be fixed with a few patch panels and an be better than oem strength.
What do you base your information on? Masking the problem would be laminating over what was left, everything was cut out, sealed in the epoxy and panel bonded and laminated on.
Have you actually seen an epoxy to steel laminate fail, or are you just saying that because it’s either not what you would do or it’s something you haven’t seen before?
Last edited by derekd8915; 09-12-2018 at 08:58 AM.
theoretically it will. take a sledge to it and it will very likely fail. take a sledge to a metal welded section it will get a dent but be structually sound.
I've seen qtr panels that hd been epoxied on and I had to cut them above the epoxy line. It was brutal to cut them off so not doubting when used for a larger panel(bedsides have been using it for a long time). I asked because of the size and location of the repair being done. That qtr panel sees alot of abuse/vibration.
Just seems like a lot of work when a patch panel is easily welded on.
The skill level of this person is that of not knowing how to weld a panel in. Due to that...he reverts to what he knwo he can do. We all have our limitations and we know what his is now.
Using a crash adhesive to bond a panel on is quire do-able due to I use the correct structural adhesives where I have to bond on the inner front aprons on a C5 and C6. They will stick and hold and that is how GM actually does it so that is not an issue with me.
Taking the time to make these panels was done by him for speed..and he chose that method ( more than likely) due to knowing that he could make something that he could get to work for what he feels is correct.
An experienced bodyman can have the steel patch panels in very little time and done. This job with the steel patch panels can be easily done in an 8 hour day day...no problem. But keep in mind I have a resistance spot welder and a MIG welder and a tool to create flanges for the lap joint.
Even applying the needed 'weld-thru' coating on the lap joints..
Applying seam sealer on the inside lap joint...no big deal there..and filling in the lap joint on the exterior..that is a no brainer..
With him doing this type of repair HE will find out if his way of doing it pays off or he sees the car in a year or tow and has to do it again due to a problem. but I am sure we will never hear about that....because of all of the 'I told you so's'
I browsed through this "discussion" out of curiosity, but at the same time, I'm thinking "WTH is a Mustang overhaul being posted in a Corvette based website"??
I browsed through this "discussion" out of curiosity, but at the same time, I'm thinking "WTH is a Mustang overhaul being posted in a Corvette based website"??
I hear you but for some reason I thought this was a pretty cool topic.
Cool, the goal here was was not to do a frame off restore and all repairs done with composites. Any rust was either cut or ground out was replaced with an epoxy carbon fiber laminates, and all body work was done in epoxy. Doing it with epoxy took a lot longer than polyester fillers, but should hold up a lot better. I laminated the back side of this before grinding This out to keep as much shape possible The plastic looking stuff over the carbon fiber is peel ply, it is removed after the laminate cures, soaks up all the blush, and leaves and etched surface that can be primed with epoxy without any further prep.
Not many people do it that way, but I have laminated enough fiberglass or carbon fiber on things besides cars to know what I can get away with. How was the body? this one had a lot of rust problems that weren’t uncovered until I removed any bondo repairs
09-10-2018, 06:02 PM
