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Shelby clone quarter panel extensions

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Shelby clone quarter panel extensions

 
Old 09-06-2018, 11:17 AM
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derekd8915
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Default Shelby clone quarter panel extensions

most of the clones I see just bolt them on, I didnít like the seam and putty could crack down the road, so I thought I would share my process on bonding them on.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:19 AM
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:21 AM
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Started by bonding on with an epoxy putty, then made a recess for my carbon fiber




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Old 09-06-2018, 11:22 AM
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Sorry pics aren’t in order.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:23 AM
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I know the side gas caps wasn’t on the Shelby, but it was just too cool not to lol
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Old 09-06-2018, 08:12 PM
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Seeing how your photos are not in order or any explanation on what was done in each photo. I wish you the best of luck and will not comment on the OBVIOUS things I see that are not right.

But..once again...who knows what you did or how you did it due to the photos do not make sense. And yet you refereed my comments to begin that of a 'budget builder'.

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Old 09-06-2018, 08:18 PM
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Sorry, new to the forum I will figure out how to reorganize them and add some detail.
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:22 AM
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Shelby’s had the line between quarter and cap......

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Old 09-09-2018, 10:36 AM
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Yea, they also didn’t have side gas caps on the Shelby, this is someone’s personal car, not building it to sell, building to someone’s personal tast. The doors are also getting shaved, custom car.
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:27 AM
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I’m sure you will have something to say about this as well.

I laminated the side scoops on too, with epoxy and carbon fiber

When this cured, I made my own epoxy putty with epoxy resin, aerosil and micro balloons.
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Old 09-09-2018, 12:42 PM
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Nothing to say due to you seem to have it all figured out due to your have been doing this for decades and need no advice.

The only thing I have not figured out is why you are posting a job showing work being done on a metal car on the Corvette Forum.

You are not showing any photos of the prep work you do before installing the part or giving any descriptions on what you are doing..so all it is is photos with no good content. So.....just in case a person wants to work on a steel bodied car and do this...they have all of your expertise in doing body work to follow. Because even if the person wanted to laminate in a fiberglass part on their Corvette...you are still leaving out the MOST impotent part....and that is the prep.

Unless this thread is NOT a tutorial and you just want to show what you can do.

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Old 09-09-2018, 12:54 PM
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So if this was a fiberglass hood, and you wanted to install a fiberglass hood scoop, would laminating it on with epoxy and carbon fiber be appropriate? Please think outside the box here, I have a 1968 corvette that I will be working on after this. I’m sorry, but I don’t have the time right now to post long posts like you do, and that’s great, you are a great part of this community and love seeing what everyone is using to restore their vettes, I am open to any questions from anyone, and an sorry I don’t have the time right now to engage in toutorial, but again questions are welcome.
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:14 PM
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Knowing that you do not know me other that how you feel about me when we 'lock horns' on certain issues.

TRUST ME when I write I CAN think out of the box. And those who really know me and see my work can attest to that. And it is not just pertaining to the fiberglass laminating body work stuff.

To get to your question about using carbon fiber. cloth No I would not due to it is major overfill and I do not use any cloth on the exterior surface...regardless what will cover it ( if anything) in the next step...and that also includes if you vacuum bagged your lamination

Also I doubt I would use and 2 part cartridge type epoxy adhesive also. I would use VPA and then do whatever laminating I needed after that on the outside and underside. You might think I am crazy but I have my reasons for not wanting to use the 2 part type adhesives in THAT specific area and type of custom job being performed.

If you have time to take the photo to show everyone,.,.it is in your best interests to take the time to do and say all you can...or...don't and just put up photos that do very little to nothing for those who are interested....and makes guys like me shake my head because the photo is not telling the story on what it took to get it to that point.

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Old 09-09-2018, 04:35 PM
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Any laminate I do I use peel ply over top of it, it leaves a smooth keyed surface ready for primer. And I’m not sure what you are talking about cartridge adheasives? I took my epoxy resin and added micro. And Aerosil to make a fairing putty.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:51 PM
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Look up SEM 39747 and that is an example of what I am talking about. This type of adhesive is what is used in the automotive industry and some of them have been crash test approved.

Not begin a boat repair guy by trade....even though I have repaired my fair share of Donzi's and Pachanga's...I do know in the automotive world of repair using the correct adhesive in the correct spot is required to protect me from any liability issues. This is where boat repair and auto repair may differ greatly.

Because if you use your way of thinking when working on these cars and use the ultimate best for a repair...you might actually do more harm that good.

Case in point. Using the crash adhesive to bond metal that is designed to be spot welded back in can have its consequences. Using a crash adhesive that would bond that sub frame rail back on is so much better than the spot welds in regards to strength...but what that is doing is NOT allowing the car to crumble in an accident because the adhesive being so stout it will not just peel off.. The placement of the spot wends and the number of them are there for a reason and they are designed to absorb the force an break away when needed so slow down the crumble of the car and protect the passengers from that energy.

So...sometimes....what may seem to be the best is far from it.

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Last edited by DUB; 09-09-2018 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:34 PM
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None of which apply in a side scoop or quarter panel extension, but I’m glad you brought this up. My c4 needs the floor board repaired, I would never do this with carbon fiber, one downside to carbon fiber, when it fails, it fails, and usually breaks apart in sharp pieces. The reason I used carbon in this case was to keep thickness buildup to a minimum, and avoid reshaping the whole side because the laminate was too high. I like to use peel ply on all my laminates also, and squeegee any excess epoxy.
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:37 AM
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That stuff you posted looks convenient, I have seen two part fairing epoxy putty’s that same mixing process. I would not personally use those, I am very picky when it comes to mixing epoxys, and just don’t trust those mixing nozzles to mix my epoxy.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:24 AM
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Regardless if you buy SEM, LORD FUSOR, 3M, ASHLAND CHEMICALS 'Pliogrip' or DURAMIX. The intermix tubes work great and I have been using them for a very very long time and NO failure at all. I generally pup out about the length of the mix tube with the product once it starts to come out to make sure it is consistent...then begin to use it where I need it.

I can understand your concern but these companies have got it figured out and when having to deal with an approved adhesive....it is ONLY in their best interests to make sure they do have it right.

Anyway...the adhesives I mentioned are not wise to allow to be exposed so they would need to be covered due to solvent sensitivity.

So using them to bond on your 1/4 extensions and side scoop is quite 'do-able'. But the 'trick' is covering the seam in a product that will not telegraph that seam in time due to the steel and fiberglass extension are going to expand and contract at different rates and that seam can show up..

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Old 09-10-2018, 09:53 AM
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Another thing I like about making my own epoxy puttys/filler whatever you want to call it, is I already have some epoxy mixed for lamination, then can just pour a little epoxy in another cup to make the putty/filler. Any “structural adhesive” I use is methacrylate, usually just in places that can’t be prepped, this stuff will eat the grease off fiberglass and chemically etch. I rarely use it, but have had a few times it was the only option without taking the whole car apart.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:00 AM
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The thickness on those scoops are a joke, and relying on the surface area of the edge to bond them would not be that strong, and I wasn’t going to add an inside flange to those parts just to get more surface area out of them. I did use a putty using aerosil and milled fiber to bond them, laminating right over the putty to avoid unnecessary sanding.

Last edited by derekd8915; 09-10-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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