avalonjohn

Happy New Year.

Wife has a 2013 Ford Explorer. Battery croaks about 2 months ago. Had a new battery installed. About 3 weeks later, new battery was dead. I jumped it and checked the voltage (around 12.7v with the engine off and around 14.7v with the engine on. I bring it to my buddy's shop (who installed the new battery). The new battery checks out fine, as well as the alternator. He finds a draw of about 2.5 amps with the engine off even after 30 mins or so. We start pulling fuses to isolate the draw and it appears it was coming from the Navigation / Radio / Sync crap.

I take it to the dealer (mind you I HATE the frigen dealer but it appeared to my friend that this would be the quickest diagnosis). So, they have it half a day and tell me the Nav/ Sync crap checked out fine, but needed updating, and that may be the cause. So, they do that and now advise the 2.5a draw is gone. About $200 for everything.

3 days later, I go to start the car after sitting for about 20 hrs and it was a real weak start. I call Mr. dealer. Back up it goes. This time they let it sit for 24 hrs. They call me and tell me there is nothing wrong, it started fine, and there is no draw. No charge.

2 days later, DEAD battery after about 12 hours. I jump it. 8 hrs later dead. battery. I call Mr. Incompetent Dealer who stated "we checked everything and your car is fine" (WTF). I have been telling this guy for weeks now this is an intermittent problem and letting it sit for 24 hours is really only checking it 1 time. I have read about Ford shifter sensors not telling the computer the car is in park and therefore not allowing the car to go into "sleep mode". I have sat in the car several times after shutting of the engine and everything appears to shut down and off normally.
Anyhow, it is going back up (3rd time in a few weeks) tomorrow. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

themonk

any aftermarket accessories installed?

has it been unusually cold outside?

did you buy the car used or new?

Z06PSI

OP drives a 5 year old vehicle.

Not CFOT baller.

dvarapala

Sadly the dealership is not equipped to diagnose this kind of problem. It's going to take a n actual engineer to troubleshoot this problem correctly. As you surmise, one or more of the embedded computer modules in the vehicle is not going into low power mode correctly, causing excessive current draw. If the root cause was a known software bug then the updated firmware you got would have fixed it. So it's either an intermittent hardware failure or a new bug in the software.

If pulling the fuse to the infotainment system is definitely preventing the drain, then replacing the infotainment component(s) attached to that circuit may be the most expedient solution.
Good luck!

dvarapala

* Ford

KarlK

I know with the 2013 f150, there is a switch that detects the vehicle is in park like you mentioned. It's a DIY repair if it's a console shift.
Also, does it have a battery management system? that can cause issues too.

avalonjohn

Wife does, no pics, sorry, but you are correct, I am no baller.

avalonjohn

I have a 50 yer old Corvette, is that ok?

avalonjohn

Thanks. We bought it new from this dealer. There are no aftermarket accessories installed. No really cold, today was mid 50s (It died again today).

avalonjohn

The shifter is in the center console. I am not familiar with the battery management system. I told the dealer about the F150 shifter sensor. He kinda played dumb. The car goes into park fine and the dash indicates it is indeed in park. Isn't there some kind of sensor though on the shifter that is not telling the computer to shut off?

avalonjohn

Thanks,
After the dealer updated the Nav Sync, the draw went away (so they said). The second time it was there last week they had it for 24 hrs and could show no current draw, but something is still killing this battery.

MAD IN NC

try here ---------------> Ford Explorer Forum

KarlK

Yes, on the f150 it's not a sensor but a switch. I'm guessing your explorer has a similar, if not the same switch. Lots of f150 owners have had the switch, parasitic draw issue. I remember seeing a kit on ebay someone was selling that avoided paying dealer prices for the repair kit.
To confirm, you can browse a explorer forum and do a search.
Your issue sounds identical to the f150 owner problem with battery drain

check door switches
ignition switch

oldgoat99

Cuz all the know-it-alls hang out here.




That wasn't meant to be snide. There are some really smart people here.

Z06PSI

So you have no pics of your wife?

K-Spaz

Lisle makes a gizmo for checking battery drain. Plugged right into your meter and connects to your battery. Maybe you should consider picking one up. Sounds like you're the guy who's going to have to diagnose this.

avalonjohn

Thank you. tomorrow it goes back to the dealer however I do not have high hopes. I am actually surprised they (the company that sells these cars) cannot figure this out. Thanks for the link.

K-Spaz

I have about the same high hopes for your dealership that you have.

UniqueDoug

jfb

One thing that causes dead batteries is leaving the ign key in place when parked, this keeps the anti theft circuit on. Since your friend found 2.5 amps disappears when the nav/rad/sync fuse is removed and I suspect you told the dealer this, then a clamp on dc ammeter needs to check these circuits to find out which circuit is drawing the current that discharges your battery. Car batteries are not designed like deep discharge batteries and every deep discharge and recharge takes off some of its life. It appears your friend is better at finding leakage current than the dealer so you might consider having him look for the offending circuit.