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Sata 3000 and 4000 HVLP and RP guns questions

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Old 01-18-2012, 09:49 PM
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Stan's Customs
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Default Sata 3000 and 4000 HVLP and RP guns questions

I'm going to buy a used Sata 3000 or 4000 HVLP or RP for a finish gun....and have some questions.

I haven't painted much in a loong time...but what I have done was mostly acrylic enamel back in the day. I had a knack for it back then and always had very good results....so maybe learning all over with newer paints and guns won't be too daunting a task.

I have built a new shop addition with good lighting and although it isn't a booth it will be well equipped. I was a mechanic by trade ...so have been around this type thing alll my life and already have a "lot" of equipment, including a large commercial compressor.

I've always had cheap guns and made do....this time I want something better. Last chance to do it...whatever I buy will last till I'm unable to do it I'm sure.

Back to Sata paint guns..

I plan on buying a used gun..rather than new. My project is a 1961 Corvette resto mod. It could be Honduras Maroon metallic base /clear, or single stage black, or black base/ clear. PPG...

I just haven't decided for sure...but likely black of some kind.

I'm leaning toward a 3000 or 4000 RP Sata with a 1.2 tip. I know nearly everyone uses a 1.3 tip for a do it all choice....but the RP is supposedly fast and I'm not sure that I wouldn't be better off with a 1.2 to slow down things a little and also imagine that the smaller tip results in a finer spray (..or better atomization). Naturally little or no orange peel is the goal...I don't particularly want to sand and buff for a couple of weeks getting a lot of orange peel out.

...and I know where a Sata 3000 RP/1.2 is for $300 or so. ( I assume that the HVLP is more popular...but I like the atomization characteristics of the higher pressure RP gun I think?)

I would like to know if this train of thought is on the money...or all wrong??

If we are good to this point...maybe someone that has shot both could describe the perceived differences between the two tips. (1.2 and 1.3) with today's materials.

...or any other musings you might care to include. I'll take all the help I can get.

Beat regards..Stan

Last edited by Stan's Customs; 01-18-2012 at 09:56 PM.
Old 01-19-2012, 11:20 AM
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C'mon guys...anyone??

This gun I'm considering won't last long...and the owner needs the cash asap.

Thanks Stan...
Old 01-20-2012, 11:51 PM
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oldalaskaman
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I tried hvlp guns and didnt like them, I'm sure it was my inexpreience, went to lvlp and had good results, less air, less paint, minimal overspray, less expensive guns , got brand new 2 gun kit for less than you're spending on the used, suspect the outcome of your paint has more to do with you doing it right than the gun if you're not a veteran painter, better results
Old 01-21-2012, 09:09 AM
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The brand is your choice, some guys prefer Sata's and some prefer Iwata's now what with technology anymore.

The amount of peel is also up to you that being, atomization, reducer, type of clear, application, temp., air cap, there are many variables in controlling peel.

As far as the 1.2 fliud tip, the smallest I use is a 1.3 for mica and flakes. You may want to do some practice runs with the clear your going to use and see how it all works out that and everybody has a different technique in application. Some clears get sprayed out the way you want it to look and some others get sprayed out so they will flow to a finished look.
Old 01-21-2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
I tried hvlp guns and didnt like them, I'm sure it was my inexpreience, went to lvlp and had good results, less air, less paint, minimal overspray, less expensive guns , got brand new 2 gun kit for less than you're spending on the used, suspect the outcome of your paint has more to do with you doing it right than the gun if you're not a veteran painter, better results
Thanks for the post oldalaskaman...

I tried a HVLP years ago and had the same thoughts you have.

However the Gun I'm talking about is a Sata RP (reduced pressure) conventional with a high rate of material transfer.

I suspect that it is similar to what you are talking about (LVLP).

Thanks..Stan


P.S...I decided that more information was in order. Maybe it will help someone that is in the predicament I was in.

I lost the deal on the Sata because I couldn't get any information in time...

After a couple of weeks of comparing new (to me) spray guns...and without trying to buy either the cheapest or the most expensive, I bought the Devilbiss Tekna Copper. It's priced the about the same as the famed "Plus" guns....but a step up. I suspect the Plus guns will be phased out. Here's the Devilbiss Tekna info...

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com...SprayGuns.aspx

About $60 cheaper here than most places...just doesn't have as much information as some do..

http://www.tooltopia.com/devilbiss-703488.aspx

I also bought a Devilbiss FinishLine 4 with 3 tips for a primer gun.

For those considering the FinishLine...the FinishLine 3 is the old one. The FinishLine 4 fits the hand MUCH better ....look around till you find it..it's new but worth the trouble to find. Only slightly more $. I like the plastic Cup model (FLG 671)...both are the same otherwise.

Here's the Devilbiss site info.....note that there is a tang under the fluid **** to rest on your hand that the Devilbiss 3 doesn't have. A must have to avoid hand fatigue..IMO.

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com...dSprayGun.aspx

Here's the cheapest one I found...3 tips and a Cup $176

http://www.tooltopia.com/devilbiss-flg671.aspx

I also opted for the DeKUps disposable cups for accurate mixing and ease of clean up. Only one set though...scroll down a little to the 24 Oz. set. One set is a third the cost for all three sizes...and the one you'll use most times according to one of the techs.

I've seen this used...totally takes the work out of measuring "and" clean up!! Takes seconds instead of minutes....which will save a paint gun in my case. I hate cleaning guns when I'm tired. I bought the Tekna without a cup...DeKups adapter only, and an extra DeKups adapter for the primer gun, for mixing and clean up after "epoxy" primers.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/dekups.aspx

So there you have it guys...hope it helps someone. I bought one set of guns and had to send them back before I finally got it right...Well without going "all" the way with Satas or Iwattas. These are a very good compromise...IMHO.

Another note FWIW...what ever forum you frequent the most will do better for stuff like this. Just not enough action here to get help in a reasonable time frame.


Best of luck....
Stan...

Last edited by Stan's Customs; 01-21-2012 at 10:15 AM.
Old 01-21-2012, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ragtopman
The brand is your choice, some guys prefer Sata's and some prefer Iwata's now what with technology anymore.

The amount of peel is also up to you that being, atomization, reducer, type of clear, application, temp., air cap, there are many variables in controlling peel.

As far as the 1.2 fliud tip, the smallest I use is a 1.3 for mica and flakes. You may want to do some practice runs with the clear your going to use and see how it all works out that and everybody has a different technique in application. Some clears get sprayed out the way you want it to look and some others get sprayed out so they will flow to a finished look.
Thanks for the post ragtopman..

You must have posted while I was pecking out my longwinded one.

Are you talking about HVLP or PR that you use?

Stan...

Last edited by Stan's Customs; 01-21-2012 at 10:15 AM.
Old 01-21-2012, 02:41 PM
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paint temp , surface temp are as important as the gun stan . a 700 gun wont lay down paint that is 50 degrees or above 75 . same with surface temp. call me when your ready to get started and maybe i can help get you set up.

the gun you bought will be fine.
Old 01-21-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by porchdog
paint temp , surface temp are as important as the gun stan . a 700 gun wont lay down paint that is 50 degrees or above 75 . same with surface temp. call me when your ready to get started and maybe i can help get you set up.

the gun you bought will be fine.
Hey Shine..

How's it going...good to hear from you.

A 700 gun...?? I guess I'm having a brain cramp...what is a 700 gun?

Glad to hear the Tekna is OK...I've been digging for something that would be pretty decent for a while.

Stan...
Old 01-21-2012, 06:07 PM
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700 $$$$$ sorry about that. the big difference is in efficiency . most will apply paint.
Old 01-21-2012, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by porchdog
700 $$$$$ sorry about that. the big difference is in efficiency . most will apply paint.
Ahhh...Got'cha...I was thinking about a Model 700 or something

The Devilbiss Tekna is what Corky at Paint Specialties uses to do spray outs and demos etc., and he has access to anything .

I'm thinking the Tekna likely atomizes similar to the Sata RP...??

I know it's a notch above the Delviss PLUS guns and I've been told they are great....especially for the money (...comparing high efficiency, non-hvlp guns)

Stan...
Old 01-23-2012, 12:14 PM
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For what it is worth I just bought a Tekna Pro Lite and while I was buying it a local customizer walked into the shop and he started going on about how well it laid down metallics and clears for him.
Old 01-23-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 929nitro
For what it is worth I just bought a Tekna Pro Lite and while I was buying it a local customizer walked into the shop and he started going on about how well it laid down metallics and clears for him.
Thanks for that Nitro...that's good to hear. I guess it's up to the painter now..(me).

Stan..

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