MAP73

I am finally putting paint on my 73 coupe. I am having trouble painting behind the rear window and rear deck without it being dry and a bunch of paint dust. I am using a single stage urethane. The lip behind and above the rear window and the inside of the sail panels going toward the rear are hard to reach and seem to generate a bunch of overspray that winds up on the rear deck making it very dry. That area seems to act as a giant venturi that catches paint and swirls it around until it's dry and then dumps it on the rear deck area. I'm only having this problem in front of the fuel filler.

My body is on jack stands and elevated some and it makes getting to that area in the center of the car a stretch. I'm thinking I'm missing something obvious. I do have the window temporarily installed to keep from stirring up dirt from the interior.

I have three coats of paint on it now and am getting ready to wet sand prior to the final coat going on. I would like that coat to be reasonably smooth and go on fairly wet.

Does anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks
Mark

porchdog

i use a small gun for areas like that. keep in mind you can sand and buff the flat panel much easier than the underside of the sail panel. i try to get trouble areas as nice as i can so they do not need much attention . if using urethane you should not have any dry spray at all.

MAP73

I was just out looking at it and I think I'll paint that area when I do the jambs for the final time. I'll cover it up with a fuzzy tape joint down near where the deck is and then I can blend it in when I color sand the deck. The rest of the car looks super, and even that area isn't that bad.

Thanks

porchdog

be careful . a buffer does not fit everywhere and can do a lot of damage fast in an area like that. you can burn both sides.

DUB

When I paint that area....I also have the car up on jack stands under the wide section of the rotors.,....and YES...it can be a stretch to reach the areas to be painted without having my paint suit touch the car..

But I usually do not have the back glass in....and it is masked off....but I still get the air vortex issue...somewhat....because I can change my adjustments of my gun slightly and watch what happens when I apply the clear....which would be the same as what you are shooting.

Using a smaller gun like 'porchdog' stated works great....if you have one.....IF you don't....then it has a lot to do with how you angle the gun....because it DOES NOT ALWAYS have to be perpendicular to the surface like you normally paint....but shooting it that way...you have to look at it and see what is going on. When I get done painting that area...which is something that I have to pay a lot of attention on also when I paint it...that area is wet and no dry spray. Because you can reduce the amount of paint because you adjust your gun for that and apply several light coats to achieve the wetness you want....but that again...is coming from someone who has painted for over 30 years. I know you can do it if you choose to...but you have to watch what you are doing.....which mean to TEST it on something so you know how many light coats will work and what will cause you to get a run.

DUB

porchdog

i have to wear such a large suit i wrap tape around to take in the slack.