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This is where I am using some modeling clay to fill in the gaps so the resin will not get all over the place and my repair will be in its basic shape as needed.
You can see the gray modeling clay where I have made sure that I will be laminating on a good flat surface.
This is the firewall side....showing that I have sealed it up so no resin will drip out.
Having to fill in where the blower motor went. This is the firewall side view of the hole
This is the backside of the blower motor opening.
Prepping the backside so the fiberglass and mat can be applied.
This is the front view where I ground down the slight flange that was made into the fiberglass. It is not needed and will make is so when I get this filled in...in anything needs to be mounted in this area...it will be flat.
Masking off the outside.
What it looks like from the backside.
PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION!!!!!
If you look carefully you can see how when I ground this area....the lapped fiberglass panels where ground on so there is no longer a sharp 'step' and now the transition is tapered and much smoother so when I apply the mat and resin...it will lay much easier and I will not have to fight the harsh 'step' where the two panels overlap.
You can see how much of a 'step' I had due to the far right of the lapped panels was not ground on so you can see the difference.
All laminated up and I also did the smaller hole near it.
Having never done this before with the tape I have just one question. Does the tape peel off of the fiberglass once it cures or do you have to grind it off? Thanks in advance.
Having never done this before with the tape I have just one question. Does the tape peel off of the fiberglass once it cures or do you have to grind it off? Thanks in advance.
Honestly that is a trick question. I apply the tape like shingles so the resin can not get into the overlaps by how I apply the tape. I have seen others who did it back-asswards and they had to grind the tape off.
On ALL of these repairs I have not yet had to grind tape off of my lamentations.
In these particular examples where you are closing up large holes in the firewall, how many layers of mat are you using? I'm curious what it takes to match the stock thickness.
Honestly that is a trick question. I apply the tape like shingles so the resin can not get into the overlaps by how I apply the tape. I have seen others who did it back-asswards and they had to grind the tape off.
On ALL of these repairs I have not yet had to grind tape off of my lamentations.
DUB
Thanks. Understand perfectly. Put it on like shingles just in reverse, start from the top down so the resin cannot get behind the tape seams.
I've been following this thread from the beginning, and have to say that , "DUB", you are to be commended, for the hard work and commitment to a quality restoration, that you're putting into this project.
On the other hand, considering the condition of the car before you started, reminds me of the "old days" and some of the "less than stellar" modifications we made, in order to turn street cars into "race cars".....
I've been following this thread from the beginning, and have to say that , "DUB", you are to be commended, for the hard work and commitment to a quality restoration, that you're putting into this project.
On the other hand, considering the condition of the car before you started, reminds me of the "old days" and some of the "less than stellar" modifications we made, in order to turn street cars into "race cars".....
THANK YOU for your comment. I am trying ...for the owner of THIS Corvette...ti make sure what i do is the best I can ...without getting too crazy....and ...hopefully some of these repairs and how I do it can help those that may be able to use them to help them in their project.
In these particular examples where you are closing up large holes in the firewall, how many layers of mat are you using? I'm curious what it takes to match the stock thickness.
I will generally use 3 layers of ounce and half fiberglas mat...BUT...I also use the fiberglass cloth due to its superior linear strength. I know that this may cause the repair to be actually thicker than facotry,,,but in many scenarios..I am not overly concerned that it is thicker. BUT...there are very few times where I have to get it RIGHT...and YES...there are places on these Corvettes where fiberglass panel thickness DOES make a difference.
Keep in mind I am not plastering the resin in and getting it dripping wet. I use correct methods and tools to make sure that my concentrations of mat and resin is right at that point of 'just enough' resin to keep the mat saturated.
I am posting photos of it after these responses.
Originally Posted by 929nitro
Thanks. Understand perfectly. Put it on like shingles just in reverse, start from the top down so the resin cannot get behind the tape seams.
Here is what it looks like when completed with the cloth over the top of the mat. I know it really does not photograph well...but for me it has to due with making this areas strong.
A question was asked IF I had a problem with the 'tape method' causing the tape to stick to the mat and resin. These photos show the inside of the most recent lamination and as you can see...there is not tape nor does it look like I had to sand it.
And if you carefully look ...the way I prepped these areas before I laminated it ( just like I showed earlier in this thread)...makes it so the lamination goes right up to the edges of the holes and there is no air pockets or gaps. It has everything to do with the taper of your prep that will make this end up like what is shown....along with proper masking to no resin seeps through to the inside.
A question was asked IF I had a problem with the 'tape method' causing the tape to stick to the mat and resin. These photos show the inside of the most recent lamination and as you can see...there is not tape nor does it look like I had to sand it.
And if you carefully look ...the way I prepped these areas before I laminated it ( just like I showed earlier in this thread)...makes it so the lamination goes right up to the edges of the holes and there is no air pockets or gaps. It has everything to do with the taper of your prep that will make this end up like what is shown....along with proper masking to no resin seeps through to the inside.
DUB
thank you DUB! i am glade you pointed me too your restoration thread. what a project you took on!
i just bought a gal of the 880 vpa. it will be here monday. i hope its the right stuff, i think i read here there may be another vpa that i should have? your patches look perfect, the tape method is so simple. now you only seem to do one side of the patch? no sandwich of glass nesassary? is that correct? thanks again for the pointers..troy
thank you DUB! i am glade you pointed me too your restoration thread. what a project you took on!
YES...it is a good one...and the custom fiberglass fabrication work of serious nature is coming up soon. So a far...most of this that I have done has not been that bad. Some of the laminating at the rear was a pain due pot getting in there to correctly apply teh mat and resin.
Originally Posted by 20round
i just bought a gal of the 880 vpa. it will be here monday. i hope its the right stuff, i think i read here there may be another vpa that i should have?
The EVERCOAT part number 100880 ( gallon size) is the Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler. Hopefully you VERIFY the date code on the can so you get good product. DO NOT assume that is it good just because they sold it to you. Call Evercoat and they can tell you how tor read the date code.
There is another bonding adhesive...which is not a filler. It is an adhesive ONLY and it is the SMC Panel Adhesive part number 994. This product can be used to BOND panels on but NOT to use as a filler. Thin applications of this bonding adhesive will never set-up.
SO...use the VPA for exterior repairs on both fiberglass and SMC....BUT...it can not be used to repair cracks in SMC.
Originally Posted by 20round
your patches look perfect, the tape method is so simple. now you only seem to do one side of the patch?
YES..in most scenarios...I only need to do one side.
Originally Posted by 20round
no sandwich of glass nesassary?
Originally Posted by 20round
is that correct? thanks again for the pointers..troy
It is NOT required that ALL repairs MUST be sandwiched ...thus being laminated from both sides. In some scenarios it is a benefit due to the extent of damage and its location on the body itself.
SO.... The myth that in order for fiberglass to stick and not fall out you have to be able to apply it to both sides.... is just that...a MYTH. If a surface is correctly prepped and the resin and mat are applied correctly...then the lamination should not fall out.
AND...if an area is NOT prepped correctly..and the mat and resin are applied on both sides...that will not matter because in time, the lamination can break loose and cause for a problem...which I have seen. And it can break away CLEAN as if the surface was never prepped.
07-09-2017, 06:29 PM
I've always said that good body work was an art. Anybody can be taught HOW to do it, but very few can be masters at it.