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This is the gusset for the front right number one body mount area. I figured...while I had the front clip off...I would be able to replace it and make it look better. The one in this photo below was still structurally sound...but visibly messed up....so I said...what the heck. Replace it and get it looking good.
The new one was installed and the old one beside it. I used the correct solid aluminum rivets and bucked them as required.
Not that it matters in this areas...because this car will NEVER be judged by anyone where it has to be factory correct. I still used the correct bucking bar so the bucked ends of the top three rivets have the round look to them. I mainly did this to show people that it can be done if they choose to do so.
This is the gusset for the front right number one body mount area. I figured...while I had the front clip off...I would be able to replace it and make it look better. The one in this photo below was still structurally sound...but visibly messed up....so I said...what the heck. Replace it and get it looking good.
DUB
Once again, VERY nice work. I just got curious.....what is the current owner of the car intending to do with it, when you get it finished? Is it going back on the track, the street, or a museum?
Once again, VERY nice work. I just got curious.....what is the current owner of the car intending to do with it, when you get it finished? Is it going back on the track, the street, or a museum?
Thank you for your comment on how I do stuff.
The track. I would have to assume that when it gets back on the circuit..it will receive a lot of press due to who owned it and the cars history when John Lingenfelter drag raced it.
Starting to do the fiberglass repairs for the left side roll cage tube through the firewall like the other side . This is the shot from inside the car.
This camera angel is showing the tube and is teh side closest to the fresh air duct/hinge post.
A close up view of how I prepped it. You can notice that I actually made the gap between the tube and the floorboard wider.
This is the side of the tube and the fiberglass is prepped and is on the inboard side of the tube.
I applied a cut section of radiator hose and taped it to the tube. Then using the modeling clay. I sealed off the gap so no resin would get through the repair area.
Same scenario but on the other side of the tube....closest to the hinge post. Obviously I took the time to get the modeling clay to be flat so when I laminate it and pull out the clay. My lamination will be just like is I used masking tape.
These next two photos show the modeling clay I used and it is on the firewall side.
The lamination in this area is completed. When it cures and I can grind on it I will follow with the photos of it completed.
I'm sure you thought those were bad repairs and you've probably seen worse but look at these. Apparently they glued the quarter panel repair on with just resin. The rest I have no guess.
YEP..I have seen this type of repair where people think that using mat or cloth and resin will bond the panel on. Doing it that way is a 'hit or miss' scenario on the number of repairs I have found that looks like your photo. In so many cases I can easily peel the panel right off due to it never really bonded on.
As I said earlier in the thread I was gona be 40 years of experience I wasn't joking! I HAVE learned a lot from this thread. The firewall is still in rough form but I feel really good about what I have done so far. Long ways to go yet.
As I said earlier in the thread I was gona be 40 years of experience I wasn't joking! I HAVE learned a lot from this thread. The firewall is still in rough form but I feel really good about what I have done so far. Long ways to go yet.
Like this? Fortunately this wasn't bonded so it was much easier to remove.
YES---EXACTLY what I was referring to and YET I get blasted many times for my comments...like I am making this stuff up when it comes to actual fiberglass mat and resin patches falling off a car with little effort.
SO I do appreciate you posting that photo so it proves what I comment on and not make me out to be any more crazy than I already come off at times.
Before you know it you will have your firewall prefect. All it takes is time and knowing what to do.
Is 3M panel bond adhesive 8115 what I want to use to glue my quarters on with? Thanx
In my opinion.....NO. I do not use ANY of the two part cartridge type bonding adhesives on ANY Corvette that is pre-1984.
The ONLY place I use it is where GM used it and that is like bonding the outer door skins on the metal door shells on a 1968 to 1982. And bonding the metal supports on teh underside of the top hood surrounds that help hold the headlight actuator supports.
I DO use the two-part cartridge type adhesives when I am repairing the 1984 to current Corvettes due to that is what they use and in most cases.....the adhesive is being used UNDER the panel so rarely any of it is exposed to the exterior becasue there is no seam to fill in and I have to worry about it swelling when it is primed on or painted.
Now I know many people have used it and some of the FUSOR or SEM adhesives like what you asked about...but....keep in mind... I have been doing this way before these products were even in the main stream and using what I have been using and NOT having any problems EVER.....I can not change my dynamics 'just because' technology 'says' that it will work. Because 'technology' is NOT going to pay for and fix a problem IF one arises. And seeing how I know how to mix my adhesive and get the amount of hardener in it so I can work with it is not a big deal...so having "x" amount of work time.... I can adjust myself.
Obviously its your car and you can do as you wish.
I remember reading somewhere where you used something other than VPA for panel installation. So use this for my bonding strips and panel installation. I really appreciate your taking the time to advise on this.
I remember reading somewhere where you used something other than VPA for panel installation. So use this for my bonding strips and panel installation. I really appreciate your taking the time to advise on this.
YES...it was more than likely the EVERCOAT #994. But I am not kidding that the VPA will work also.
IF you plan on using it...let me know so we can talk.
This would also be a good time to start a thread on this project you are doing due to it being specific.
After cleaning and prep and using an acid etch to remove rust on the drivers side.
The rust CAN be removed.... if a person had doubts. All it takes is time, effort chemicals and the know how..
.
That acid will remove all traces of rust if given the time to work in very small nook and crannies.
The inside tube on the drivers side AFTER I prepped it.
This is the inside tube looking through the firewall air vent hole that I had not yet laminated over.. Shows that the tube is ready for epoxy primer.
The yellowish staining you might see it the effects of the acid....it may look like rust...but it is not rust and I cleaned it again right before applying the epoxy primer.
07-22-2017, 05:53 PM
