Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

John Lingenfelter's 1973 Corvette drag car

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Old 05-11-2017, 06:49 PM
  #121  
DUB
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YES...the rolling chassis has been completed and it is now ready to have the body put back on it and the roll cage welded back in place.




You can see the Global West greaseable control arm bushings installed. Something I would HIGHLY recommend for those who want to take their car to a higher level.









DUB

Last edited by DUB; 05-11-2017 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:51 PM
  #122  
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The frame has been powder coated in a dark gray.

The areas on the frame that you may see that are bare metal is where the roll cage is going to be welded back to.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 05-11-2017 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:57 PM
  #123  
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These are the thick aluminum body spacers that John had installed for reasons that must have provided an advantage when the car was leavign the starting line. For whatever reason...they are going back in the appropriate spots that I removed them from.

DUB
Old 05-12-2017, 08:09 AM
  #124  
929nitro
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Looking real good.
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Old 05-12-2017, 05:58 PM
  #125  
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Got the body back on the frame and it was off to have the roll cage welded in.

It will come back really soon and then I get started on the other major fiberglass repairs and fabrication. The use of carbon fiber will be highly likely.

The body has been stripped with razor blade but obviously will need more attention.





DUB
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Old 05-13-2017, 03:57 PM
  #126  
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Great progress DUB. That frame looks amazing! Now, if I'd seen that trailer on the road I would probably think WTF? Lol. As always, looking forward to seeing the next phase being done.
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DUB (05-13-2017)
Old 05-13-2017, 05:35 PM
  #127  
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DUB,

This is fascinating! I did not know that you could combine the VPA and mat! Makes perfect sense!
Old 05-13-2017, 05:47 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by c1nicole
DUB,

This is fascinating! I did not know that you could combine the VPA and mat! Makes perfect sense!
Hopefully what I wrote about it made sense. Keep in mind WHERE I am using this type of repair method.

I am not fixing a hole in the center of a hood using that VPA/mat method.

So many of your floorboard repairs and be fixed this way and even if you apply a layer or two of the CLOTH on top of the VPA..will make the repair SUPER STRONG.

DUB
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Old 05-13-2017, 07:07 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by DUB
Hopefully what I wrote about it made sense. Keep in mind WHERE I am using this type of repair method.

DUB

Yes, this will be GREAT for my floor pan repair!!

Cannot wait to get our girl 16 HOURS to you so you can do your magic. What you do is truly an art form. This thread will give newbies like myself the confidence to try something we have never done before.
Old 05-30-2017, 09:29 AM
  #130  
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:16 PM
  #131  
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OK...the PARTY is gettign ready to commence on this project. I got the car back and the roll cage has been TIG'd back in place and I am beginning to remove the front clip. Stay tuned. Photos will be coming soon.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 05-30-2017 at 06:16 PM.
Old 06-05-2017, 01:19 PM
  #132  
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Well it's finally time to see how much I've learned from your posts. I have the body cleaned finally 4 paint jobs with primer under each. A lot of bad work to remove. I am starting with the firewall, filling all holes but the accelerator and master cylinder. Thanks for all of the pics. As far as VPA do I want 870 or 880? 61 polyester body. I am going to laminate several layers to the inside of the firewall for strength and then remove the lip where the 2 sections are bonded on the forward side visible from the engine compartment.


Old 06-05-2017, 03:32 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Robert61
Well it's finally time to see how much I've learned from your posts. I have the body cleaned finally 4 paint jobs with primer under each. A lot of bad work to remove. I am starting with the firewall, filling all holes but the accelerator and master cylinder. Thanks for all of the pics. As far as VPA do I want 870 or 880? 61 polyester body. I am going to laminate several layers to the inside of the firewall for strength and then remove the lip where the 2 sections are bonded on the forward side visible from the engine compartment.


Well the 880 is a gallon which I just mentioned to Dub the other day did almost my entire 69. Needed a little more so I ordered a quart which is 870. I will let Dub jump in but I guess it all depends on how much VPA you will be doing. I would think the firewall would only need a quart.
RVZIO
Old 06-05-2017, 04:58 PM
  #134  
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I figured that out after I posted. I don't remember if it was you that posted the pic earlier but it said polyester and smc. I wasn't sure exactly which one. I ordered the gal. I have a lot to fix. I also ordered a gal of Fibre Glast resin for my mat and cloth. Now the fun begins.
Old 06-05-2017, 05:26 PM
  #135  
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ALWAYS VERIFY the date code on your products so you get fresh product that is still in the time window of usage. I believe it is ONE YEAR.

ALWAYS remember that the VPA ( Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler) will BOND and FILL polyester fiberglass. ...and it CAN be used as a body filler on SMC. BUT it CAN NOT-----REPEAT----CAN NOT be used to BOND SMC panels on the body.

IF bonding of SMC is required...using the Evercoat 994 is acceptable.

NOW...here is where it gets 'funny'. The same Evercoat 994 ( SMC Panel Adhesive) NOTE: how it is ONLY an adhesive and NOT a filler. CAN be used to bond on polyester fiberglass panels just like the VPA. I use it a majority of the time when I am bonding panels on WHEN bonding seams are involved. So ANY Corvette pre-1984 will get the Evercoat 994 SMC Panel Adhesive.

If I am bonding SMC panels for the 1984 and newer Corvettes I use the cartridge type adhesives.

'Robert61'

The VPA is what you can use with out any problems. IF you have never used it.... it might be worth your time to PM me so I can PM you with my shop number so I can fill you in on some of the 'tricks' using this stuff....unless you have found and read some of the tricks I have typed out in the past here on the forum.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 06-05-2017 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:43 AM
  #136  
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This instruction is going to come in handy...and that right soon.

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Old 06-27-2017, 05:55 PM
  #137  
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If the repair in the photo above was at my shop....I would have to 'say' that about 95-98% of the repair would ALL be done on the interior side. Which I am sure you more than likely gathered if you read the previous posts in this thread.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 06-27-2017 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:31 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by DUB
If the repair in the photo above was at my shop....I would have to 'say' that about 95-98% of the repair would ALL be done on the interior side. Which I am sure you more than likely gathered if you read the previous posts in this thread.

DUB
That was my thought, as I was reading your posts. I do have questions on some particulars and will try to call you by the end of this week for clarifications.
Old 07-09-2017, 06:11 PM
  #139  
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OK...getting back to the PARTY.











The owner wants the fresh air ducts and the large side vents removed and then I will fiberglas them in.

DUB
Old 07-09-2017, 06:17 PM
  #140  
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I am now starting to work on the firewall area where the tube from the roll bar goes through it. I am needing to get that area around it filled in better so it can be sealed off and not look all scewed up.

The 'blessing' is that with the large side vent removed. I can get to one side of it much better that be twisting my body to get it laminated correctly all the way around the tube.



The fiberglass is from an earlier laminating session where I knew I would have to get back into this area once the roll cage was welded back to the frame and rigid.












To aid in maintaining a desired air space between the roll bar and the fiberglass. I applied a radiator hose to the tubing.





DUB

Last edited by DUB; 07-09-2017 at 06:24 PM.


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