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71 Paint Project

 
Old 03-24-2017, 06:17 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 7Stingray1 View Post
DUB yes the first picture in post #57 is only my "depth guide". I ground this first to establish the depth I wanted and then went to back with my roloc tool to create my "V". This way I have a guide for the roloc and could keep the groove somewhat consistent.
You did a 'text book' repair....and you should feel good about that.

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Old 03-25-2017, 02:08 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by DUB View Post
You did a 'text book' repair....and you should feel good about that.

DUB
Thanks DUB!
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Old 03-25-2017, 02:29 PM
  #63  
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Default Door gaps....

And on to what I hope to be one of the last few issues I will have to address, door gaps .... prior to stripping the paint I always thought the door gaps on the driver side looked good and I did not see any issue with them. The passenger side door gaps however needed some work. The rear Gap on the passenger door looks pretty good to me but the front gap is too wide at the top of the passenger door where it meets the front fender. I have yet to take the doors off since I have purchased the car so I have not messed with their alignment at all. I know I am going to need to remove both doors to complete stripping all the paint from the door sills, but I am assuming I should address the door gap issue first so that I can only remove the doors once and keep them off for the painting process. Please take a look at the pictures below, my primary question is do you think this can be fixed with the alignment or would it be easier to just build up the door to match the fender?

Drivers front
Drivers rear
Passenger front
Passenger rear
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Old 03-25-2017, 02:37 PM
  #64  
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You can see here that the top of the door needs to come outward to match the fender ?
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:49 PM
  #65  
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Hopefully your door hinge bushings are good enough at his time.

The angle of the photo forth top of the right door makes it look worse than I know it probably is. I need to know when you put a paint stick on the door and make it go towards the fender....how much higher up is the fender at its highest point? 1/8". 1/4", etc

I know the distance will change the further you go down the door....but down the best you can and let me know.

Shimming to door out may not be able to be done because when the door is closed....and you take a flat paint stick and put it across the gap at the upper door hinge and the fender and door are both flush....pushing the door out will then require you to do more body work at the bonding seam areas and up po compensate for the door being brought out.

ALSO....if the door is brought out...that begins to effect the ability of how our door glass can be adjusted....becasue i do not know if it is already at one of the max adjustment for bringing the glass in to meet with the pillar post weatherstrip. And I knwo that the pillar post weatherstrip channel can be moved...an d can actually have the track modified to go much more than what GM intended....but that is just more crap to deal with and MUST be considered IF you shim the door out. DO NOT ASSUME that it is all okay. This can also cause for the door main weatherstrip to not seal at the top also...depending on how far out you shim the door.

And shimming the door can cause the rear of the door at the top to now stick out also.

I have a feeling that the panel on the cowl has been loosened or tweaked and causing this...but until I get information from you about how high the fender is above the door...I will refrain from that.

You might want to call be so when you do get into your doors and take them off there is something you need to do BEFORE you take your doors off. It would be wise of you to be at the car when you call.

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Old 03-25-2017, 06:15 PM
  #66  
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DUB the widest area is at the top of the door and measured 0.15 in. However, if I measure the height difference at the middle of the door right on the body line the door is in by 1/16 " so I could probably shim the top hinge a little bit without created an issue with the rest of the door. As for the window adjustment, at the front of the window I have used most of my adjustment to bring the window toward the pillar weatherstripping but there is small amount left

Last edited by 7Stingray1; 03-25-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:41 PM
  #67  
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DO not forget that the track for your pillar post weatherstrip can be adjusted out a little bit if needed....but ...that might be worth looking into if you feel that you are right at the point of no more adjustment in the window track.

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Old 03-27-2017, 12:18 PM
  #68  
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Quick check for your door gaps: Put a piece of self adhesive 80-grit sandpaper on one side of a paint stick and drag the edge of the stick (at an angle) through the gap. If it isn't tight/cutting at any point, that area needs to be filled in.

Last edited by zwede; 03-27-2017 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:00 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by zwede View Post
Quick check for your door gaps: Put a piece of self adhesive 80-grit sandpaper on one side of a paint stick and drag the edge of the stick (at an angle) through the gap. If it isn't tight/cutting at any point, that area needs to be filled in.
I get what you are 'saying' but I have 3 thicknesses of paint sticks in my shop...so...more specific info from you would help those that could use this method.

And the angle also makes a difference.

I use the really thick paint stick that you can get when you need to mix a 5 gallon bucket of paint. If I am being really really really picky on the gaps. I take this paint stick and cut into the width of it and make it look like a 'T'. So the branch of the 'T' will be what goes in the body gap area and the run of the 'T' is what will ride against the body and be a stop. I sand them down to the thickness I am wanting to achieve. If I need different gauges I make them.

And for those that may not know what the branch and run are in the 'T'. The branch is the vertical line in the 'T'. An the run is the horizontal line in the 'T'

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Old 08-20-2017, 09:15 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 7Stingray1 View Post
DUB the widest area is at the top of the door and measured 0.15 in. However, if I measure the height difference at the middle of the door right on the body line the door is in by 1/16 " so I could probably shim the top hinge a little bit without created an issue with the rest of the door. As for the window adjustment, at the front of the window I have used most of my adjustment to bring the window toward the pillar weatherstripping but there is small amount left
Just curious, at what stage are you at with your project ? Really liked your thread,I've learned quite a bit.
Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:37 PM
  #71  
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Well I completed the passenger door gaps a couple months ago however the summers here are pretty hot and my garage is routinely 105-110 F when I get back from work (I've seen 117 F a couple times) so my progress has slowed significantly due to shorter times I'm able to handle the heat. But I've been making my way back around the car doing all of the really small detail paint removal such as door jams and recessed turn signal areas. It's pretty tedious as most of it is by hand. I experimented with a small hand held media blast gun but I could not contain the media very well at all in my garage and I don't have an outdoor space that I can move the car to so I ruled that method out. I have also removed the doors and started to remove the inner paint from them as well, due to my color change (a choice I occasionally regret I'll admit). But overall not a whole lot of progress has been made but yet, it's still progress!
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Old 02-03-2019, 11:44 PM
  #72  
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I know this thread has been dormant for a while and unfortunately so has my progress on the corvette paint due to my dad being diagnosed with and passing away from cancer. But it is time to get back to working on the car.

Below is a picture of a couple of small cracks in the front drivers side fender/cowl area near the windshield. I did grind down the cracks slightly to see how deep they went and it looks like they MIGHT go down through the panel, but I haven’t continued to grind yet to find out because this area will be difficult to reconstruct if I go all the way through.

So my question is, should I grind all the way through and then rebuild with matt and resin or can I tackle this with just VPA? Possibly VPA with thin matt mixed in? Are cracks in this area common? Thanks for all advice!




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Old 02-04-2019, 09:14 AM
  #73  
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Sorry to read about your loss. Best wishes to you and your family for your loss.

If these cracks are superficial and do not go all the way through the panel...and the panel still has good integrity to it. You can fill them in much like the grinder groove I see in your photo that the factory left there. I have seen how the resin ion some panels where they makes a sharp 90 degree angle...that resin is so thick that it can crack pop off and leave exposed fibers right on the corner. In those situations I know I can fill over it and not worry. So...your prep will determine what you need to do.

IF the crack(s) go though the panel and you can flex the panel manually by hand and see them open up...then it will need to be laminated back and filled over with VPA.

IF the panel does not flex...then there is a good chance that the VPA could work.

This is often times the same dilemma I come across where I need to decide what is BEST...regardless of the pain in the backside it may be to fix it that specific way. Because...if this repair fails...think of the amount of time you would have to spend to correct it again AFTER you have the car painted.

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Old 02-05-2019, 10:41 AM
  #74  
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Sorry for your loss.
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:16 AM
  #75  
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Thanks you both for the well wishes.

DUB I could not flex the panel and the crack did not go through the panel but I had to grind the notch fairly deep so I decided to lay down a couple layers of Fiberglas first and then cover with VPA. I had to redo the VPA since the picture was taken due the air pinholes. I was really struggles with working the air out of the VPA with the colder weather during this repair.




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Old 05-01-2019, 12:29 AM
  #76  
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On to the next, I had two hair cracks in the recessed part of the hood where the crome inserts normally go. Sorry I did not take pictures of the cracks before but my hood is SMC so I had to be very careful that I ground out the entire fracture because the SMC CRACKS CAN TRAVEL PARELLEL TO THE PANEL. Picture of the notched panel below

Notched both cracks, broke through slightly on one side

Decided to lay down a couple layers of Fiberglas matte

After letting the resin set and trimming

After this I covered with VPA
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