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Hopefully when you see it when I am done...you DO choose to not mold them in. But if you do mold them in... do hope all goes well for you.
I used to do it a long time ago...but back then the bumpers were really thick. Now-a-days...they are not like that. And I know some people have done it but I would like to see one out in the sun. The ghost line will more than likely appear.
DUB
I suspect I will try it as you are showing. Worse that will happen is I decide I still want to mold it in. If so all it has cost me is some material and time but I will have gained a lot more in experience and knowledge, always a winning combination.
This product CAN be applied on SMC as a body filler...but CAN NOT be used as an adhesive for SMC.
For what I am doing...it can be used as a bonding adhesive for NON-SMC panels and also the filler for my repairs.
I guess I would have to call Ecklers and find out what type of resin is being used in making the part and then call EVERCOAT and see if it is compatible.
My main concern in your 'flex' part is how thin it is at the flanges...and if you grind and prep it too much...you might actually take what little strength this part has... right out of it. Which is why this thread is dealing with rigid bumpers.
I suspect I will try it as you are showing. Worse that will happen is I decide I still want to mold it in. If so all it has cost me is some material and time but I will have gained a lot more in experience and knowledge, always a winning combination.
I am trying to show it as well as possible so missing links of importance are being left out.
I am gettign it closer to being able to be primed and painted. Doing this when the front clip is still painted it taking a lot longer than if it were stripped and no paint on the front clip.
By no means am I trying to talk you out of bonding it on....but if you want...PM me so I can get you my shop number and we can talk and I can explain WHY bonding this on can often times come back and show up a ghost line and where the seam is. Once I explain it....it will make sense....but that is till your choice.
Hi Dub you are not talking me out of anything, I have learned over my 64 years that the best decisions are usually the ones made best informed. I am watching this thread through to the end and then will give it a try and see how it looks, I just don't like the factory look of irregular fit. If I have any questions on the process or if I decide to go forward with molding I will definitely give you a call. I have your shop number from when you helped me with the holes in my son's 90 corvette doors. Thanks again for that.
NOW...I am applying the tape AGAIN across the front edge of the body. I am now going to do my final application of VPA across the top to get it super nice..and also do the sides of the fenders.
CRITICAL INFORMATION
In this photo you can see the black line and the arrow. What I am trying to show is WHERE I am cutting my tape and having that area be where the two pieces of tape butt up against each other. I am using the bodies own body lines. This is so when I go and prep it after I have applied the VPA...my tight tape seams where my tape perfectly meets each other will be in an area that I can correct easily.
This is where I am having the tape join. Using the body creases where the tape meets each other..
I am super critical that the surfaces of the two tapes DO NOT overlap each other..but instead...they butt up against each other. And this may take time. This can be a big issue if you are using thick tape and allow the tape to overlap and 'think' that what I am typing is a bunch of junk....until you remove the part and SEE that having the tape overlap CAN effect the look. But...also keep in mind I am SUPER CRITICAL....some people may not give a hoot...but I do.
I usually use clear boxing tape that is obviously very thin....BUT...a I am also doing it on a front clip that has no paint on it. In this scenario....I can NOT damage the paint...and KNOWING that I did not paint this car in the past...I can not take the chance on lifting paint due to the aggressive nature of clear boxing tape....so...that is why I am using the tape you see in the photos.
What I am trying to show in these two photos is how the tape is NOT wrinkled the roll of the body where I am filling. The tape is wrinkle free on the edge and down on the flange where the bumper will contact it. I do not care about the wrinkles in the tape AWAY from the seam area....they do not matter...what matters is a flawless flowing tape surface...so when I apply the VPA...it will reproduce that surface. If your tape is all jacked up and has wrinkles in it...then do not expect the VPA to do anything but reproduce what you are applying it to.
This is the side of the front bumper where I am going to fill in the gap between the front bumper and fender. All ground and prepped and the yellow tape have the mold release wax on it.
This is the left side of the front bumper. I have prepped the cut in the front bumper so I can now fill over it due to having applied mat and resin from the backside.
Not being 100% happy with what I saw when I sanded down the VPA......I ground it back and I am going to apply a fresh layer on the top section while I am doing the sides.
With just a very little bit of fill in on the right side.....the bumper is finally DONE. Now I am getting it prepped so I can prime it..and then go to the next stage.
IT IS GETTING CLOSE...and BOY...am I GLAD!!!! This one has been BRUTAL due to working around previous body work what was repaired incorrectly. AND not being able to correct it due to I am NOT painting the front and rear clips. I am only painting the bumpers themselves.
This product CAN be applied on SMC as a body filler...but CAN NOT be used as an adhesive for SMC.
For what I am doing...it can be used as a bonding adhesive for NON-SMC panels and also the filler for my repairs.
I guess I would have to call Ecklers and find out what type of resin is being used in making the part and then call EVERCOAT and see if it is compatible.
My main concern in your 'flex' part is how thin it is at the flanges...and if you grind and prep it too much...you might actually take what little strength this part has... right out of it. Which is why this thread is dealing with rigid bumpers.
DUB
The bumper has a nice thikness,
I don't see any issue with that.
Just still wondering what kind of adhesive and foller do I have to use.
I do not use the 'flex' bumpers so I do not know the adhesive/filler to use and be able to stand behind what I recommend.
You need to make some phone call and find out as like I previously wrote. I do not want to recommend an adhesive /filler and it not be what is really needed.
09-15-2016, 11:02 AM
