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Hopefully this thread shows people that it can be done and not damage the paint on the front clip. But I can say this one really tested me.
This one was one that ranks up with some of the worst I had to deal with and so much of it dealt with previous body work that was done incorrectly that I could not do anything about.
These photos show how far down the flange of the front bumper the VPA went wehn I applied it.
More coming soon.
DUB
This is so RIGHT ON D U B. I just purchased my '75 in the summer, and i got my new bumpers before the car ,lol, just got the car home last thur. I did it the hard way, imported it from CANADA, Just finished striping the old bumpers off, ( most fell off on the way home ) I am not painting car anytime soon, so your tutorial is just for me, THANK YOU SO, SO MUCH, and i did get the solid bumpers on your recommendation in earlier posts. You are my new best friend. Thanks again,,,,,,,,teddy
Thanks so much DUB, i hope my 75 , ( not painting the car, just fitting bumpers ) bumper install goes as well, it should now with the proper info!!! thanks again,,,,,,teddy
Thanks so much DUB, i hope my 75 , ( not painting the car, just fitting bumpers ) bumper install goes as well, it should now with the proper info!!! thanks again,,,,,,teddy
If you feel that this tutorial helps you part way... but needs me to come in and help you out if you have a problem.
Start a new thread with photos and then PM me so I can find it...or better yet. if you put it in the 'paint and body' section of the forum I WILL see it.
OFF TOPIC...By the way. I am from where you live. I lived in Avon Lake.
What trick do you use to set up that straight and smooth gap between the bumper and the body once applied the filler?
POST 10,11, 12 and 13.
This thread is rather specific and I detailed it out the best I can.
If these posts still do not answer your question....I am lost...because they should cover your question.
Let me know if they answer your question. I do not want you still looking at his thread with unanswered questions. Because ...if you do...then what was the point of me doing this thread when I could have kept my process a secret and saved me a bunch of time posting this stuff..
If you feel that this tutorial helps you part way... but needs me to come in and help you out if you have a problem.
Start a new thread with photos and then PM me so I can find it...or better yet. if you put it in the 'paint and body' section of the forum I WILL see it.
OFF TOPIC...By the way. I am from where you live. I lived in Avon Lake.
DUB
Thats cool, OHIO is a good place to be FROM lol, another quick question, it looks as though you eliminated the center rubber bump support under the "point" of the new solid bumper, is that true? Would that have been for clearance issues? thanks
another quick question, it looks as though you eliminated the center rubber bump support under the "point" of the new solid bumper, is that true? Would that have been for clearance issues? thanks
YES...in this particular scenario. I ground away and cut the rubber...but I did leave the part still attached for strength.
This Corvette had previous body damage that was not repaired correctly...so the center section with rubber was to one side. The owner did not want me to get into all I would need to do to pull the impact bar over to the left and get it square again. SO...my only option was to remove the runner coating.
Thread resurrection sorry! Fantastic info here thanks DUB.
DUB is it common knowledge where your shop is located? When I’m done bolting on all the “make-go-faster-handle-better” bits to my 75... rigid front/rear bumpers are next on the docket.
Maybe I’ll just send the whole car to you. If you’re lucky I’ll even let you put my dash back together after a low blood sugar heater core extraction haha.
I guess it is.... due to I did fill out my Public Profile so my location is on every post I comment on.
Just like you...My city and state is under where my avatar would be if I had one I liked enough to post.
As for the actual physical address of my shop...I guess that is not common knowledge. If you need to know it. PM me.
You can do as you wish but shipping your car completely across the country is a bit drastic if you ask me. But then again I install these bumpers so I actually think it is not that big of a deal even though it does take time to do it how the thread shows.
IF you want to do this bumper install yourself.....I will help you. FREE OF CHARGE. IF you do not want to mess with it...then the choice is up to you.
PM me if you need more. Or start your own new thread and I will jump in and help you on the bumpers and we can talk on the phone and all that so they can come out like you envision.
Awesome thread dub. Over the next couple years have you seen this quality control issue improve in the bumpers?
YES...I have had to switch who I now get my rigid bumpers from. So I cannot state IF the bumpers form who I was getting them from had corrected this issue and have a tighter quality control when manufacturing them. And so far....the new company I am getting them from seem to not have the issues of air pockets at the top of the sharp flange like in the photos shown above....and the bumper not being warped due to being pulled out of the mold too soon....or being really thin due to minimal mat and resin used to actually make the bumper itself.
Which is why I prefer to get rigid fiberglass bumpers that are made with a black or grey gelcoat. Not saying that they are any better. But when laminating on a grey or black gelcoat.....if the laminator is really watching what the yare doing ...they can see air pockets much easier and get rid of them.
SO...it really all depends on who is laminating it and IF they are really care to do a superb job laminating the bumper.
YES...I have had to switch who I now get my rigid bumpers from. So I cannot state IF the bumpers form who I was getting them from had corrected this issue and have a tighter quality control when manufacturing them. And so far....the new company I am getting them from seem to not have the issues of air pockets at the top of the sharp flange like in the photos shown above....and the bumper not being warped due to being pulled out of the mold too soon....or being really thin due to minimal mat and resin used to actually make the bumper itself.
Which is why I prefer to get rigid fiberglass bumpers that are made with a black or grey gelcoat. Not saying that they are any better. But when laminating on a grey or black gelcoat.....if the laminator is really watching what the yare doing ...they can see air pockets much easier and get rid of them.
SO...it really all depends on who is laminating it and IF they are really care to do a superb job laminating the bumper.
DUB
- care to share the source of the bumper covers you are currently using???
New member first post 🙋♂️ Great write up, I appreciate it! I stumbled into my first vette recently and it has just enough damage to the nose to keep the passenger light down. This tutorial just wiped out any hesitation I had messing with my first fiberglass car, I do carbon fiber, and play with a lot of gel coat and glass, but usually inside out haha I appreciate the recommendation on a vendor, and I’ll take it. I’d rather take some good advice than save a couple dollars because as y’all know time and sanity is much more valuable. I also want the path of least resistance because I will likely mold this part after fitment shown in this thread, and reproduce it out of carbon fiber 👌 getting it done right is usually the right answer so again, I want to thank DUB for taking the time to clearly and openly share this expertise. It’s still helping people years to come 🤙
10-14-2016, 05:42 PM
CANADA, Just finished striping the old bumpers off, ( most fell off on the way home ) I am not painting car anytime soon, so your tutorial is just for me, THANK YOU SO, SO MUCH, and i did get the solid bumpers on your recommendation in earlier posts. You are my new best friend. 
Thanks again,,,,,,,,teddy
