DUB

For what it is worth....make sure to get ALL of the primer off this headlight door....along with all the small spots you have on the entire surface of the car of primer and sealer.

I myself am not worried about the factory primer being removed off of the headlight door. YES..I AGREE...using an approved primer that is designed to be applied on aluminum is what is needed here. The same will hold true for the fuel door, wiper door, wiper grille and rear vents.

In my opinion...I see not need for any of the current 2 part adhesives such as SEM, LORD FUSOR or Duramix.

As for the products I use I will say that I love the Vette Panel Adhesive made by Evercoat. The gelcoat I use I get from a major fiberglass manufacturer in my area...the primer I use is a polyester type when needed...and I use NEXA paint.

DUB

Mullin Motorsports

As I said it's been a while since I did one of these. In retrospect I guess getting all the factory primer off is good thinking, especially if there's any touch of oxidation. Over the decades GM (and other companies) used many different types of primers on vehicles. Back in the era of this car, I believe they used all lacquer based products, and later they used baked enamels, which were a good base. That's actually what I was thinking, so my bad. Anyway we all agree that a good etching primer alleviates all concerns with paint adhesion on pot metal or aluminum parts.

DUB, is the gel coat that you buy available to the general public or through a body shop supply house? Is the brand name available, and out of curiosity, can you tell me why you like to use that instead of the polyester filler primers? I recall using gel coat to repair fiberglass boat hulls, and other fiberglass vehicles. Those were times when we wanted to match the gel coat color on the unit without painting, rather just apply the gel coat, sand and buff. Do you find the gel coat is a more stable substrate?

Yes to the Vette panel adhesive! Evercoat line up is still one of the best, proven, and cost effective.

Thanks,

Dave

DUB

I do agree that many of Evercoats products are very very good.

DUB

Mullin Motorsports

We did a ton of lacquer stacking back in the day. I have always hoped that the one brain cell that's left over would still hold some good info. LOL

I agree with you.....stick with what you know works, and products that you trust. BTW, I only mentioned the LORD FUSOR, and Duramix as they are a couple of companies that make repair products that are compatible with modern Vette composites. I was my experience that the polyester resin did not work well on the late model stuff.

For those of us that don't have access to gel coat, I guess we'll have to stick with readily available products such as feather fill. I recall that it's pretty tough stuff, high fill, and it's a very good base to block sand, all because it has high solids and it hardens with a catalyst, rather than air drying.

Between the two of us we could teach a class or two eh?

I'm always happy to pass on some info as long as it helps someone. I hope what we've talked about here is useful and doesn't confuse folks. If it does, please let me know, cause I'll stop chiming in anytime..

Dave

DUB

This thread is now officially off the subject!

For those who want gelcoat.....you can get it......PPG sells it along with many other companies. Just 'google' it.....and if you have any boat repair places in your area....they will knwo where to get it. If not...then the polyester primer is an option for those who choose that material.

I honestly do not know if I have it in me to teach a class at this time. I prefer the 'one on one' sorta thing when it comes to helping people. Get too many people together...often times that seems to not work out well. I hate wasting my time on someone who does not want to learn this stuff. And when I spend time trying to advise them on what I know works...and then they choose to do it differently...and then they come back and say they have a problem because they did not do it as I suggested...they did it their own way...I let them know that they are on their own because I am not going to waste my time due to they felt that they could 're-invent the wheel'....and now have a problem that they want my advice on...which is a waste of my time because if they had done what was suggested..I would not have to spend more time on something that I have to wonder if they are going do as I ask them to fix this problem. I give my time to help people free of charge (like many others)...and I know people will do as they wish...but...sometimes I have my limit to trying to help someone who obviously has all the answers and does not need help....even though they are asking for help

DUB

Mullin Motorsports

Sorry if I high jacked the thread. Good advice for those that are interested though. Thanks for the heads up on where to get gel coat.

The bottom line (pun intended) is everyone who is painting a car should remember that the foundation under your paint will help to determine the long term final finish.......i.e. you shouldn't build a house on sand.

Dave

c1nicole

We tried several blade holders, melted a plastic one before we got smart and got the long handle metal one. HUGE difference. Good luck! The door jambs and the under deck lid are not fun.

DUB

I use the folding metal type razor blade scrapers and they aid also in keeping the hand fatigue to a minimum.

DUB

Captainkvan

A little more progress.

Captainkvan

More pics

DUB

NOW...That is looking MUCH better!!!!!!!!!!!!

DUB

Captainkvan

I think I'm going to have the hood and t tops media blasted. There's a strip shop here in Peoria az. I called them and and they said they could strip it using plastic media farily in expensive. They said they would do a test spot first. It's getting to hot out hear to be sanding in the garage. And I'm getting tired of sanding.

c1nicole

That looks awesome! Your body looks solid and without damage.

Dave Tracy

You, unfortunately, are far from done!! You've got gel coat, if you are going you are going to use it, filler, primer and your paint. I have been sanding soooo much I think my middle name is "Sandy". Keep it up. At this point it seems there is no end in sight but you will get there.

c1nicole

That looks awesome! Your body looks solid and without damage. I hear you on the sanding!!! I read people on the thread talking about stripping their car in a weekend. Not sure what they define as stripping, but no method (besides blasting) can I imagine one person or even 2 blowing through a C3 in a weekend! Keep at it Captain, it looks great.

Captainkvan

Thanks to all for input. I don't plan on painting the car. I'm just trying to save some money by removing all the original paint and then have it painted. I plan on getting it painted this upcoming fall. I still have the door jambs and paint under the trim to remove.
Cheers 🍻

DUB

JUST BE CAREFUL on them media blasting it. Be there and watch it like a hawk.....because...and this is from experience.....having a panel get damaged is not worth it. I would much rather strip it by myself than trying to get it done faster and have the perfect panel screwed up.

YES..I know it sound impossible...but I can get the exterior of a Corvette chemically stripped in a couple of days...and that is IF I am left alone and can focus on it. Keep in mind I am talking about a Corvette with two paint jobs...if it has more than it might take longer depending on how well it strips with the razor blade method first. Also...if I am stripping one with the new type of paint and clear...I know it will take a bit due to the new paints fight like crazy to coem off even with the stripper I use.

DUB

Captainkvan

Duley noted Dub. Thanks

Captainkvan

It's getting close to being done. It still needs to be sanded and buffed.




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randy ransome

Man that looks great. All those long hours of sanding are just a memory now. You saved money and you know it was stripped correctly also. That paint job after final sanding and buffing will make you proud every time you jump in to take it for a spin. Great Job.