When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I would like to repair the hinge area on my hood. I was going to glass it in but not sure if it will hold without reinforcing the bottom. Can anyone give me some insight on the repair. I can't seem to find another thread on the subject. Thanks As you can see there has been an attempt from previous owner with some type of adhesive.
Not meaning to be a smart a$$...but how much time do you want to put into this.
I have repaired MANY that look just like what you have posted in the photos....and I can say...they are not easy to get back right again and still look like nothing was ever done....especially if the exterior paint on the hood is still there.
I have several different methods of this repair...and due to me having the tools to do all of them...putting these methods out there if a person does not nor will get the tools is pointless.
SO....it all depends on how much time you want to spend on this....and so much of it depends on what you want it to look like when it is repaired.
With the holes that someone drilled in the sides of your understructure...this now can add a few more options on how you do this...BUT...it depends on what you want it to look like.
You can definitely count on having to laminate in fresh mat and resin ( or maybe not..I do not know how you want it)....and from there will be all up to how far you want to take it and...like I mentioned...the time you want to spend on it.
Because...simply from my experience....if a person chooses to do the repair in a manner that requires the least amount of effort, etc...then they can not expect THAT result to last as long as the other options of repair that would take the amount of time and triple it if not more....becasue that is why they did not choose those methods.
Dub, Thank you for the reply. The paint is stripped off of the surface. I am not overly concerned about someone noticing there was a repair, but with that being said I would like to do the best job I can do. I am by no means a body man but I consider myself open minded and willing to listen to your instructions if you are willing to give them. I would never just gob on some adhesive and expect it to hold like was done in the past. I have tackled a few fiberglass repairs following your direction in the past.
I will PM you with my shop phone number so you can a call me. I need to get feel for what you are up to so I can advise you in the method that works best for you and still gettign it repaired so it is a good solid repair.
Then you can post photos of what you are doing to help others out if you choose.
So the section you show removed is off your 'test' hood???
IF so..I can say that those rivets would not hold for too long due to not having any metal to pull against. I guess them using 14 rivets is to somewhat try to compensate for it.
As like when we talked...I do not care how long the understructure is when I cut it out...so-to- speak...but I am looking at how easy it is for me to get it back into place and rear the area that I made the cuts.
Hopefully you remembered that I would NOT advise you cutting straight across the under structure. Stagger and angle ALL of your cuts (if possible). So if you cut the flange and vertical section on the inner area of the under structure ...then move up or down an inch or so an make that cut on the outside edge of the under structure...then cut across the flat section of the under structure at an angle to join your two cuts.
AND....the vertical cuts and you make in the under structure can also be angled.
I also create a backer for the center section - gives the good part and the sectioned part strength
Like putting in a sleeve when sectioning rockers.
YEP...I mentioned to him about making a bonding strip set-up that would be similar to a sleeve so that once he fixes the initial problem. He can bond the section back in that he had cut out.
Stagger and angle ALL of your cuts (if possible). So if you cut the flange and vertical section on the inner area of the under structure ...then move up or down an inch or so an make that cut on the outside edge of the under structure...then cut across the flat section of the under structure at an angle to join your two cuts.
AND....the vertical cuts and you make in the under structure can also be angled.
On that section of the hood that was removed there are 5 flat surfaces. Each of these flat surface stop and make 90 degree bend.
SO..there are 3 horizontal flat surfaces...and 2 vertical surfaces.
Are you with me???
The 2 outer horizontal surfaces is where the bonding adhesive is going to be applied.
2 different ways this can be cut by alternating the cuts from straight to angled.
SO..instead of cutting straight into that flange like he did. Cut it at a 45 degree angle to the 90 degree bend.
Then...the vertical surface that you are heading into...you can cut straight up. Then when you get to the top horizontal surface....you cut it at a 45 degree angle across it to the other side....and then finish out the other side by cutting straight down and then finish it with an angled cut.
OR...
Cut straight into the flange like he did....then when you get teh the 90 degree bend...angle your cut to a 45 degree cut until you get to the 90 degree bend at the top of the understructre....then cut straight across it....then a 45 degree cut down the other vertical surface and then cut it straight on the other flange.
The idea is not to just cut straight through and angle your cuts so you are adding in a bit more strength due to surface area....and this also is taking into account the bonding strips a person would apply on the underside of the remaining hood understructure so when the piece you cut off can be bonded back on and really be strong across all our cuts.
IF that did not help. I will draw it up for you....which is not a problem...I just can get it it right now.
I have and do these types of sections all the time
53-57 hoods are known for pulling out the front hood hinges and the trunk hinges.
couple additional tips
- v groove your cuts to provide additional strength when bonding together
- create a backer - I normally go double the thickness of the cut - if the cut is 2 inches wide, then the backer/sleeve is 4 inches wide.
02-04-2017, 07:23 PM
Hood hinge area fiberglass repair
YEP...I mentioned to him about making a bonding strip set-up that would be similar to a sleeve so that once he fixes the initial problem. He can bond the section back in that he had cut out.
