Mr D.

Hey Guys

So I dragged home a 71 Coupe project that is a Steel Cities Gray car. From the front tires aft this is a no hit car, not so much going forward.

I would prefer not spending $5K for a new PM front end and invest the many hours of labor myself fixing what I have if that is possible. I have a little experience working with fiberglass over the years so I'm not afraid to jump into this. I have just about every book on the subject as well as all the tools I would need. The only thing I don't have is a heat lamp but that is just a click away on the internet.

The lower valance damage was the result of hitting a Raccoon and the rest who knows. What I do know is that every damaged area that was previously repaired was repaired improperly. Whoever worked on this car had a love for Bondo and that is all they used. Even to the point of just covering up damage with it.

Anyway look at these pictures and tell me what you guys think.

Dennis

DUB

I will be more than glad to offer advise and suggestions. But what I need to know so I do not waste time typing. I need to know form you what directions do you plan to take on this.

ALL of the damage can be repaired....and also the front clip can be replaced with a one-piece hand laid type. BOTH will take time.

SO...I need to know what you want to do and how much you value your TIME. Because if you are the type of person who is impatient....then this project is entirely not something you want to start into. IF you do have patience and dedication...then this can be done.

DUB

Mr D.

Dub

Thanks for the reply back. I for sure have the patience and dedication to take this on and short of a day job have all of 2017 to focus on repairing this front end.

I have in the past hung a PM front end on my 65 but would prefer not to spend the $5K for this car and repair what I have as I think its doable. I am defiantly not interested in a one-piece hand laid front end or overly concerned in NCRS standards.

First on my list is to get this car completely stripped of all paint, primer and Bondo to see what I'm dealing with and gather up all the repair parts needed.

Dennis

DUB

Thank you for answering my questions...and now knowing what you are planning on...LET THE PARTY BEGIN!

I agree that I would see what the front end looks like when it has been stripped.

If I may ask...what method of paint stripping are you planning on using...because it CAN make a difference in how the crack repairs may have to be done.

DUB

Mr D.

Dub

I was going to use a chemical stripper and my thoughts were to take a sharpe and mark around all the cracked areas and strip around those areas to keep from getting stripper in the cracks. Will use sand paper in those areas.

I have used Capt Lees in the past and ran out during stripping my 65 and picked up Klein-Strip Aircraft stripper at the local FLAPS and it seem to work better. I try to stick to stripping a 3-4 ' area at a time and use lacquer thinner to clean up behind the stripper.

That's my thought right now for getting the paint off.

Dennis

Mr D.

Also attached is a picture of two hoods I have;

The hood on the right is original to the car, the one on the left is a spare that came with the car.

Both have issues that I circled in red. I'm finding out that not all 68-72 hoods are created equal. It would appear if I went for a replacement I need a VERY late 69 or 70-71.

Something else I have to consider, repair or replace. I think the best hood of the bunch is the one on the left.

DUB

I usually use masking tape and tape of any crack really well and still make a conscience effort to keep the chemical away from the tape as possible...so we are thinking along the same lines.

AS for your hood area that are damaged...I would need to see a better close up of the damage and a description from you if what you see and know about it is not clearly seen in a still photo.

DUB

Mr D.

Well while I'm asking questions and building a shopping list;

Is this 71 Vette SMC?

I'm looking at getting the West System if that is the case.

Also, what do you recommend for a Heat Lamp?

DUB

Something like this will work. You can really go crazy and get some that are really huge and do a lot.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

As for using the West Systems....it will all depend on the type of panel being repaired. I have seen fiberglass hood and SMC hoods...so it will depend on which one you have.

And..as for repairing these areas. I have done numerous. I would be more than glad to discuss this with you on the phone. if interested...PM me. The I will reply with my shop number.

DUB

Mr D.

Slowly making progress, got it off the trailer today and in the garage. Will start stripping paint tomorrow. The 65 will be outside during that process.

zwede

My two cents: I'd get a PM top surround as it has so much damage. Don't know what they go for these days, but back when I got one for my '71 I paid $1100 including the header bar. It was from Corvette Image and quality was excellent. The front fenders can be repaired and if you want the full experience, go for it. However, front fenders are not that expensive so keep that in mind if you get tired of fiber glassing. Paid about $350 for a PM fender from CI.

Here's mine during surgery to attach the new top surround. It looked so sad.

Mr D.

Zwede

Yes I would agree this front end is pretty beat up but at this point I have nothing but time on my side (2017) and will be out a few hundred in materials.

If at the end of the day this all goes south on me I will just pull the trigger on a complete Jig assembled PM front end. The PM hood surround is $1633, PM fenders $469 EA and the complete PM front end is $4,991.

Won't really know what I'm up against until I get a multitude of sins removed from this front end. I guess back in the day using fiberglass to repair fiberglass was some wild *** crazy idea that no one embraced.

DUB

Mr D.

Although I do agree with what 'zwede' wrote. Replacing panel is much easier. BUT...if a DIYer is doing it....the costs of the cart and then the labor needed to install comes to a price. Then...looking at the damage that is on the car and seeing if it is worth the time you will put into these repairs to get them right is also another price. THIS is when a person needs to determine what their TIME is worth. IF the time is not that big of a deal...then all the damage CAN be repaired....and you save a lot of $$$ due to not having to buy panels.

AS for the extensive damage to the front clip. I would start with the evident worst one first and see how that plays out...then go from there.

DUB

Mr D.

Dub

I hear you loud and clear, you're going to laugh at this set of pictures.

So I pulled the headlight assemblies out tonight which was pretty easy considering all I had to do was lift up the nose to drop them out.

I set back and look at this front end, look at the inner fenders, inspect the bumper brackets, inspect the headlight assemblies ECT. Everything inside the front is as it should be and is original to the car. Makes no sense why the front end is so beat up from the front wheel spindles forward.

1) The nose reinforcement assembly is cut in half (???) where the radiator support rod attaches and a metal plate was welded in that location to attach the support rod.

2) The headlight support bar is jacked up in the center from what appears to be a pry bar and is broken loose in a 8" section on the drivers side.

3) Missing the driver side fender/hood surround bonding strip forward of the radiator core support.

4) Both driver and pass side inner fenders are de-bonded forward of the radiator core support.

What's your thoughts on all this? Looks like the two metal reenforcements are $260, didn't see the bonding strip but guessing it is available.

Dennis

DUB

OK...can this be fixed...YES. Do you want to spend the time fixing the front reinforcement instead of buying new one...that will depend if you have a welder and grinders ad want to do it or not.

For me..I would have to replace it due to the time to fix this one would cost my customer more money....BUT...if you are doing it yourself and want the challenge....then it can be fixed if you are not in a hurry.

The same goes for the other support that the headlights are bolted to behind the headlight openings. It can be removed and replaced or repaired and re-installed. As a matter of fact...I have a few of those in my shop.

Some people may read this and think I am 'off my rocker'...but honestly...I have had to spend a lo of time on parts that are just not available...so spending the time in restoring them is worth it because that have to be repaired.

This is when you look and start to figure what you initial parts costs will be if you had to buy them and ask yourself if you fixed them...it you feel you can...is worth it or not.

DUB

Mr D.

UPDATE

So I have been removing several layers of paint and primer from this front end only to find lots of Bondo and fiberglass mat. I have been using paint stripper, manual sand paper and mechanical sand paper methods and today got the drivers side half of the front end almost completely stripped to bare glass.

What I know so far, 1) the center section of the driver side fender has had major repair but the forward section is good because its a spliced in hand laid piece, 2) the driver side upper surround has had major repair, 3) the forward section of the upper surround is split in half, 4) the passenger fender is missing a 10" section out of the forward section at the wheel fender lip, 5) lower surround missing.

All I really need to fix all this is a upper surround, lower surround, RH fender and LH fender.

I'm not one to run from a challenge but I'm also not an idiot. Looks like a PM front end is in my future, only cost 100% more to go first class.

DUB

This is when a person has to evaluate how valuable their time is in comparison to actual dollars....and then compare that to what they want to get out of the Corvette when completed....meaning if they are worried about repairs or plan on being judged and all that stuff....and then IF the costs of a press molded front clip is worth it versus a hand laid front clip. So many decisions to consider...especially if money is a factor.

DUB

Mr D.

Well I have been slowly stripping the paint off this car. I have used paint stripper from the leading edge of the side grills aft and forward of that I have changed gears to mechanical due to 10 layers of paint and primer in addition to fiberglass mat and lots of Bondo.

Two layers down (paint, sealer, primer) I hit a layer of red primer that must be epoxy, poly, imron or something that is hard and with stripper applied is like removing slimy bubblegum. Spent 4 hours and 1/2 gal of stripper getting half of the RH fender done.

Slow progress but progress non the less. I know everyone e likes pictures.

DUB

I know it can be slow at times...but you are making progress.

DUB