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I'm new to this and can't really tell what layer I'm at. It seems like I'm hitting various layers of primer in different colors of grey and white, but while the paint came off pretty easily, I don't think this grey layer could be razorbladded off. It's on there real good. Is it safe to begin filling in nicks and dings with evercoat at this stage, or do I need to strip further? It doesn't look like it, but what you're seeing in the photos is actually all the same height layer. If you run your fingers across it, it's all smooth.
IF a person is using a razor blade and does not know when to stop...or how far down they need to go. It is wise to take a piece of sand paper (80 grit) and sand down the finish until you get to the fiberglass or SMC...that way...you will know what layer is right on top of the body material. I would assume people should know where to sand because that is common sense.
Now to answer the question. STOP at the dark grey sealer. Sand it all off and THEN do your filling repairs with the Vette Panel Adhesive.
Thanks. I'm trying to teach myself some new skills, so although I may not be doing things right, at least I am learning and bettering myself.
I just want to make sure I'm clear on your wording. When you say to "sand it all off," are you saying to sand off the dark grey sealer and take it all the way down to the glass?
Thanks. I'm trying to teach myself some new skills, so although I may not be doing things right, at least I am learning and bettering myself.
THAT alone in itself I commend you on!
The willingness to learn something new. So many people choose not to get out of their 'bubble' and even give it a try.
Originally Posted by BDoc
I just want to make sure I'm clear on your wording. When you say to "sand it all off," are you saying to sand off the dark grey sealer and take it all the way down to the glass?
YES. You either have to CAREFULLY sand it off.....or.....you could also try to use a chemical stripper and rough steel wool with automotive paint grade lacquer thinner and get it to come off also.
SO ...it depends on how easy it is for you to block off the dark gray sealer coat. I would use 180 grit DRY to get it off myself.
Seeing how I do not know what your plans are. I can see that the outside door handles, lock cylinder and upper window trim are still installed. All I can hope is that you are planning on removing them to do all what you need to do. Leaving them in ...can cause for problems.
Why can't you just leave the Grey factory sealer on?
Please excuse me if this comes across as beign a 'wise-@ss'...that is not my intention.
You can if you want to...I ahve seen guys in the industry do just that...but heat are not caring about how long or well the paint job lasts. If they can save 10 cents...they will.
Knowing that you need to prep it (sand it) so something can be sprayed on it...why in the heck would you want to leave something on the surface that may on the panel in large sections and also have exposed raw SMC or fiberglass? That partial sealer remaining and raw SMC can sometimes...IN TIME come back and show up under the right types of lights and angles when looking at a paint job. That 'sometimes' is what I worry the most about. Because I am worried about how long my paint job lasts and how good it looks decades after I shot it.
SO...that is why I strip the surface that is consistently clean and sanded so whatever I spray on it will be all the same....and possibly not ahve a shrinkage effect way down the road.
There are very good products that can replace that dark gray sealer coat so that is also a reason to not be 'married' to it and keep it on the panel.
And YES..I know....you might be asking. "What do you do on a 2016 Corvette that needs repair? You do not strip the entire panel do you???
NO...I do not strip the entire panel when repairing it...mainly because the current cars are using products that have evolved. And knowing that GM's paint has been baked to death....I have very little problem in future shrinkage areas....but that is also allowing what I am applying...allowing it to do its job and not force it to do things that it is not designed to do. So...there is a contradiction there.
But seeing how we are talking about doing an all-over paint job...that is where it is different and I would advise that a person takes off all that they can and this also means in the the tight 'nooks and crannies' where the problems can start due to not getting the product out of those areas. Anybody can strip the flat top surface of a hood...but it is those tight area that if not correctly addressed...can come back and get you later. The edges of panels are also a problem area and often times overlooked. And I am only speaking from EXPERIENCE on that.
Ok. But i was thinking that of that factory sealer was going to shrink any it would have done so by now and actually would make a good surface to go ahead and cover with a modern epoxy sealer. A lot easier to scuff the old sealer and any exposed glass than stripping. Yes, if I'm doing something that i want to be absolutely sure will be right decades from now, and someone's paying me to strip it then. ...no brainer.
Last edited by Chicago Bob; 05-14-2017 at 08:24 PM.
those areas where filler is thick will not blade off. if you buzz them with 80 grit then you can torch it off .
using a propane torch will enable you to brush it off with a elders brush.
VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!! the torch is used to draw out solvent from the filler. NOT heat it . one simple pass over filler will powder it.
why would you leave 50 year old lacquer based sealer on a 12k job ????
Ok. But i was thinking that of that factory sealer was going to shrink any it would have done so by now and actually would make a good surface to go ahead and cover with a modern epoxy sealer. A lot easier to scuff the old sealer and any exposed glass than stripping. Yes, if I'm doing something that i want to be absolutely sure will be right decades from now, and someone's paying me to strip it then. ...no brainer.
Your way of thinking is like others that I know that do it. They are more worried about how fast they can get the job done and not how GOOD the paint job is. If you want to leave it...it is your car...do as you wish.
It has NOTHING to do with the factory sealer shrinking...it has to do with the solvents that are in the product you are applying ON TOP OF IT that will thus cause for a reaction in time. THAT is why I remove it all off.
I AGREE with what 'porchdog' wrote about why would you want decades old sealer on car with a wicked paint job on it. Which is why....regardless on how easy it is to scuff the sealer and put something on it....us professionals KNOW that can open up a chance for a major cluster to occur....and then that is when you would wish you can turn back time and re-do it again.
If you want to block sand off or chemically strip the sealer off. Whatever method you choose to do it is up to you....or do nothing at all.
Because if you leave the sealer and do your paint job on top of it and come back 15 years from now and tell us how well it has held up. Or you may be coming back much sooner than 15 years.
It has NOTHING to do with the factory sealer shrinking...it has to do with the solvents that are in the product you are applying ON TOP OF IT that will thus cause for a reaction in time. THAT is why I remove it all off.
DUB
Oooops, I forgot about that part.
I now see, said the blind man....thanks!
03-05-2017, 07:59 AM
How far down do you normally razorblade?
