64 Coupe Door Weatherstrip
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
64 Coupe Door Weatherstrip
I'm getting ready to install new door main weatherstripping on a 64 coupe and looking for some suggestions to make this job a little easier. I have the doors off the car and the new weatherstrips have the performed upper corners, I plan on starting at than point?? What is the best way to apply the adhesive to the 12-15 feet of rubber without getting 3 or 4 helpers? Some instructions say to apply to both surfaces allow to dry and then apply a 2nd coat to one surface and bond immediately is this the best method? I have Dynatex super adhesive purchased from Corvette Central and it says Do Not Apply to Painted Surfaces? Do I have the correct adhesive? What is the best adhesive to use? Lots of questions, any and all tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#2
Melting Slicks
It will be with interest that I watch this post since this is a future project on my '64. When I stripped the car, the adhesive was just grossly brushed on with the excess evident around most of the weatherstrip. It was a yellow/brown color. I am aware that 3M has a weatherstrip adhesive. Hopefully, DUB and Porchdog can give you specific products and direction.
#3
Race Director
'fritzh52'
When in doubt...call the company that makes the adhesive and talk with the tech department and ask them what they actually mean by..."Do Not Apply on Painted Surfaces".
They might do that as a disclaimer due to some many idiots out in the world that will slap that stuff on a fresh coat of aerosol paint and they wonder why the weatherstrips is not sticking.....SO...call them.
I do not use they brand so I can not say for a fact if it is OK or not. I am sure it is because it is a contact adhesive. Basically any contact adhesive will work. Meaning that the adhesive will need to be applied to the door area and also the contact surface of the weatherstrip and allow to tack up and then apply. OR...dry like they wrote and add more and then apply. I have another method...but what was mentioned will work.
I DO take acetone and soak a CLEAN PAPER TOWEL and wipe a section of the weatherstrip and then IMMEDIATELY wipe it off with ANOTHER CLEAN paper towel. I keep doing this until I do the entire weatherstrip. The ...even though acetone flashes off rather fast..I still give it a bit if time to make sure that the weatherstrip is good to go.
NOW...I can do weatherstrips on doors like this all by myself.....because...I apply it in sections where I can control what I am doing. When I am doing this i look for good 'break points'.....meaning I am using the angles made into the door as a point where I will stop.
SO..starting at the GIVEN corner made into the weatherstrip....I will apply my adhesive on the TOP FLAT HORIZONTAL section of the door and stop when it starts to bend downwards. I then apply it to the weatherstrip where I have applied a piece of tape on it so I know where to stop the glue I am applying. I am NOT STRETCHING the weatherstrip ...I let it go in place naturally and NOT under any stress from being pulled on. Keep reading... I am about to contradict myself.
Then I decide the next section to do and follow the same procedure. When you start to get to curvy areas...MAKE SURE you make sure the weatherstrip falls into place under no stress.
IF you have preformed a pre-fit by taking the weatherstrip and seeing that where the ends meet at in the center of the bottom of the door area...THEN...you can decide if you need to pull on the weatherstrip on one of your straight areas to make it so when you are all done the two ends of the weatherstrip are touching perfectly.
JUST MAKE SURE you do not pull on the weatherstrip to gain length in an area where you have a curve of some type. You can do a little bit here and there and not hurt anything...which I KNOW just contradicted what I previously wrote about not pulling on the weatherstrip. SO...this is where common sense and thinking about what you are doing does come into play.
DUB
When in doubt...call the company that makes the adhesive and talk with the tech department and ask them what they actually mean by..."Do Not Apply on Painted Surfaces".
They might do that as a disclaimer due to some many idiots out in the world that will slap that stuff on a fresh coat of aerosol paint and they wonder why the weatherstrips is not sticking.....SO...call them.
I do not use they brand so I can not say for a fact if it is OK or not. I am sure it is because it is a contact adhesive. Basically any contact adhesive will work. Meaning that the adhesive will need to be applied to the door area and also the contact surface of the weatherstrip and allow to tack up and then apply. OR...dry like they wrote and add more and then apply. I have another method...but what was mentioned will work.
I DO take acetone and soak a CLEAN PAPER TOWEL and wipe a section of the weatherstrip and then IMMEDIATELY wipe it off with ANOTHER CLEAN paper towel. I keep doing this until I do the entire weatherstrip. The ...even though acetone flashes off rather fast..I still give it a bit if time to make sure that the weatherstrip is good to go.
NOW...I can do weatherstrips on doors like this all by myself.....because...I apply it in sections where I can control what I am doing. When I am doing this i look for good 'break points'.....meaning I am using the angles made into the door as a point where I will stop.
SO..starting at the GIVEN corner made into the weatherstrip....I will apply my adhesive on the TOP FLAT HORIZONTAL section of the door and stop when it starts to bend downwards. I then apply it to the weatherstrip where I have applied a piece of tape on it so I know where to stop the glue I am applying. I am NOT STRETCHING the weatherstrip ...I let it go in place naturally and NOT under any stress from being pulled on. Keep reading... I am about to contradict myself.
Then I decide the next section to do and follow the same procedure. When you start to get to curvy areas...MAKE SURE you make sure the weatherstrip falls into place under no stress.
IF you have preformed a pre-fit by taking the weatherstrip and seeing that where the ends meet at in the center of the bottom of the door area...THEN...you can decide if you need to pull on the weatherstrip on one of your straight areas to make it so when you are all done the two ends of the weatherstrip are touching perfectly.
JUST MAKE SURE you do not pull on the weatherstrip to gain length in an area where you have a curve of some type. You can do a little bit here and there and not hurt anything...which I KNOW just contradicted what I previously wrote about not pulling on the weatherstrip. SO...this is where common sense and thinking about what you are doing does come into play.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
fritzh52 (03-29-2017)
#5
Race Director
#6
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
I have one more question to ask you, I just installed my windshield (64 coupe) and read in a different thread where you recommended the CRL1716 caulk sealer between the body and rubber. You said you have or made a special tool or adaptor to get the sealer deep into the channel can you tell me more about the tool you use? Thanks Fritz
#7
Race Director
CRL 1716 is just ONE of the products I use. I use the CRL 1716 in between the glass and teh weatherstrip I also use the CRL 7708 and that is where the special tool I made works.
PM me so I can get you my shop number and you can call me and I will tell you.
DUB
PM me so I can get you my shop number and you can call me and I will tell you.
DUB