Chip repair
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Chip repair
So I stupidly moved a quickjack around my C7Z and a bolt end caught the rear fascia making a chip. It's the size of a pencil eraser, through to the black plastic below, and I've cleaned up the edges. However no amount of fighting with Dr Colorchip makes even a remotely acceptable repair. It's either gooped over the edges like a booger or removed back out of the chip after using the blending agent. Can you guys give some guidance on a spot repair or do I just need to get it repainted?
Last edited by spearfish25; 04-13-2017 at 10:05 PM.
#2
Race Director
I have never used the product you are using due to I can mix up my own colors if I need to do a chip repair. SO I do not know how thin or thick the paint is that you are using and this blending agent....I have no clue what it is needed for.
Possibly contact the manufacturer and see if they have any advice.
To me..this is small simple chip repair. I would fill it in with one of my artist brushes that has so few strands..I can control the amount of paint I am applying. Then I would add the clear when the paint dried for a while.
I know that if you pulled into my shop and wanted me to re-paint this bumper for those two small spots....I would NOT.....and I would explain to you WHY I would not...and if you were still wanting it re-painted....I would give you a chair to sit in so when I hit you with the costs...you would not have that far to fall and hit the ground if you passed out.
DUB
Possibly contact the manufacturer and see if they have any advice.
To me..this is small simple chip repair. I would fill it in with one of my artist brushes that has so few strands..I can control the amount of paint I am applying. Then I would add the clear when the paint dried for a while.
I know that if you pulled into my shop and wanted me to re-paint this bumper for those two small spots....I would NOT.....and I would explain to you WHY I would not...and if you were still wanting it re-painted....I would give you a chair to sit in so when I hit you with the costs...you would not have that far to fall and hit the ground if you passed out.
DUB
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
^LOL, thanks. The Dr Colorchip doesn't include a clear. It's their paint and then 'sealact' which they call a 'blending agent'. The paint is quite thin initially from the bottle and within 30 seconds it'll be gooey and make strands if one continues to manipulate the applied paint within the chip. Then the 'sealact' will pull all the paint from the chip. I'm finding it very frustrating. Frankly I think it looks like crap after about 5 attempts and redos. Im going to look for a good touchup paint and then a separate clear coat...or a system that includes clear coat.
Last edited by spearfish25; 04-14-2017 at 07:40 PM.
#4
Race Director
The paint is more than likely lacquer based....so being in Florida and it being hot as heck...that can be part of the problem if you are doing it when it is hot or doing it outside.
DUB
DUB
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the feedback. You've given me another reason in my struggle with my wife to give the Vette its own bedroom in the house!
#6
Race Director
I know you have been struggling with it. Sometimes a good trick...if you want to call it that...is seeing how long you can work with the paint when you are applying it.
If you only have seconds...then apply a very small amount and then when that starts to do that thickening thing that it is doing...you go back and add a little bit more paint on the brush and try to apply it to what you just applied in order for you to keep the touch up 'wet'...so-to-speak. You then also have to keep an eye on the tip of your brush so it does not begin to glob up and then that can cause a problem when you are close to being completed and then apply a thick booger and ruin what you did.
DUB
If you only have seconds...then apply a very small amount and then when that starts to do that thickening thing that it is doing...you go back and add a little bit more paint on the brush and try to apply it to what you just applied in order for you to keep the touch up 'wet'...so-to-speak. You then also have to keep an eye on the tip of your brush so it does not begin to glob up and then that can cause a problem when you are close to being completed and then apply a thick booger and ruin what you did.
DUB
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB. I'll give that a shot.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm having better results with the ACDelco paint. Do I want to build up paint or clear coat to fill the chip? I have a nice paint base presently but still have some vertical filling until it's level.
#9
Race Director
I always make sure I leave enough room for the clear.
It is very delicate/precise work if you are trying to get it so you can not tell that you even had a spot to fill in.
DUB
It is very delicate/precise work if you are trying to get it so you can not tell that you even had a spot to fill in.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 04-19-2017 at 05:00 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB. I think I have the hang of it now. After allowing the paint to dry I cleared it and then sanded the clear smooth. Buffing and polishing got me back to a pristine finish. Of course after applying clear I now see I'd ideally have done more work with the paint first. Can I just sand it down and restart or am I looking for problems if I keep fiddling?