DUB

I know it happens ...because it has happened to me many times. I go to replace an outside chrome mirror only to find either rusted screws that will not come out...or the screws have been replaced with some other screw. I have seen many different attempts to try to keep the mirror mount base attached. And..I am sure some of you may have found this also when you went to replace the outside mirror mount base and mirror.

Well..make no mistake...there is a fix for this that is not that hard to do.

*** BACK STORY*** A long time ago when I was working on a Corvette and I needed to get the mirror base off so I could strip the paint off the door....the inevitable occurred. The screws did not want to cooperate and come out and I knew right then and there I was in for a major problem like I had encountered a few times before that.

Well Instead of using penetration oil and other methods. I chose to take the door off because I was going to deal with it later. I removed other parts off the door and noticed something I had not noticed before. This got me to think..and it is what I am going to show you

This thread is to show that the metal retainer that is installed under the door skin for the chrome mirrors for the doors can be serviced/replaced or installed.

This will show that there is no need to cut any part of your door to do this.

This thread may help those who may find they have broken/rusted/ screws that hold the base on and when replacing an outside chrome mirror that 'snap' and when wonder what to do next. Like I had briefly mentioned above.
I figured out how to do this. A reasonably simple way to repair it without having to butcher your door....or use whatever screw you can find.

Also...if you are installing the right hand door mirror. And if you are not wanting to use the Well-nuts that are provided for a right side chrome mirror. This thread will show you can install a metal retainer just like GM did for the left door.

On a 1973 I have in my shop that is needing this mirror plate removed anyway due to being a drag racing car. I am using it to prove my method works.

Description of the photos below begins here:
As you can see..I drilled out the two center rivets that held the plate to the door as GM designed. Then I poked out the one rear hole that was covered by body filler by a previous person who painted it. The front hole is still covered for the photo.

I have already install a long section of welding wire into the door....and you will see where it comes out in the next photo.



WOW!!!! Can you see that!!!! I was just as amazed when I did it for the first time over 30 years ago. It is coming out of the door handle area and the door skin is still on and I did not have to cut any part of the door. All I did was remove the outside door handle to gain access to the channel.

On the door I described above...I cut away the mirror mounting base and saw that I needed to drill out one of the factory countersunk rivets. I was going to install a blind rivet in its place. When I flipped the door...some of the the drill shavings and portion of the solid rivet came out by the handle...THAT is what got me thinking. So I ran a wire out of the hole and drilled out the other factory rivet....and that is what got us to this point. A way to remove and repair the mirror mounting base.



Well, clearly seeing that the mounting base can come out. Logic would state that if it is repaired if needed or replaced with a new one it can go back in.

Where the tip of the screwdriver is showing the cavity/channel that is made into the door that will allow this repair to take place. Anybody who knows these doors knows what cavity/channel I am referring to.



The one that I took out of the door is on the left..and the new plate made out of stainless steel and threaded with the two screw in it is on the right.

This stainless steel plate will be removed after I am done and I am using it for speed of installation. It is pointless of me to restore that plate if I am not going to use it....right?



This is showing that when I make these plates....I thread all four holes.



This is the measurement of the plate if someone wants to try to make one. As for the drilling of the holes for the mirror base...use it as a gauge. And for the two other holes...use this photo to get you close. You can drill and tap them or drill out 3/16" holes and use a countersunk blind rivet. Also keep in mind.... you can use the general rule of thumb. And that is...if you are threading the plate like I did and not welding nuts to the backside of the plate... the thickness of the plate should be as thick as the diameter of the 10-32 machine screw you are going to use.





The countersunk rivets that were used by GM and the countersunk blind rivets you can use if you do not want to use machine screws.
The solid rivets that GM used is just to show what they look like.. you will not be able to use them due to the door skin is on the door frame.





Inserted the welding wire in the second hole and got it to come out by the handle.



Then I put the wire though the second hole in the plate.



It is hard to see but I am putting a knot in the wire so it can grab and pull on this plate when I pull the wire end at the mirror mount area.



Then I insert the welding wire into the third hole.



As you can hopefully see...both wires have been knotted up so they can grab and pull the plate into position.



Pull on both wires and VOILA!!! The plate is in position so the outer two screws can be installed so the inner screws or pop rivets can be installed when the welding wires are removed.



Here is a photo that shows the shiny threaded holes for the inner screws. thus showing that it was installed.



Obviously if a person chooses to use whatever they feel will work for them they can do as they wish...but for the Corvette owner who wants to challenge themselves and fix it like it was designed..this is not that hard to do.

I know I have these plates made up and I can swap one out really quick if I am replacing the left door plate. If I am having to drill the holes for the right side...that takes just a bit longer because I am careful tapering the fiberglass so my machine screws lay flush with the door surface. And seeing how I have had countless door panels and outside handles off....those are not a problem either and I feel it is well worth the effort for a much stronger solid mounting plate.

DUB

69L46vert

Just wanted to say thanks to Dub for taking the time to post this fix. I used this method yesterday and it worked perfectly. Mirror is rock solid now. Great idea.

DUB

Thank you so much for the feedback and seeing that the thread is not a lot of 'smoke and mirrors'...and it does work.

I am glad that this thread helped you and I am sure others who may not have posted that it worked for them on the forum.

DUB

RonR80

Very good I just installed the pass side mirror and seen this too late , but I may re do the mirror this winter , thanks

DUB

Sorry to read that you saw this AFTER you had already installed it.

DUB

RonR80

No problem Dub , something to shoot for this winter , I did the back brakes last weekend "park brakes" and rotor but that's easy stuff, it had the original rotor's on it , along with the rivets .

pmr2000

DUB

Did you post this in the correct thread. It seems to not apply nor make sense.

DUB