Me and my project corevtte
12-05-2017, 12:39 PM
#41
I’ve been slacking on the updates and have a little time today:
floors both sides are done, painted inside and under coated outside, was not super hard, just tedious and dirty.
seat is fixed, found a place that sells both connectors and bought enough to do two seats
still waiting on parts from tpis(stands for “that place is slow”) so engine is not done
trans is done, driveshaft is done, c beam is cleaned up
need to figure out which engine/trans mounts I should use, poly?
sadly I can’t do more until I do the heater core, not going to
do the same work twice and hope heater core is good.
no progress on painter yet, one came out, took a look and quoted me 10k plus materials, that seems a lot
with rockers, front fenders, targa and quarters already stripped and sanded.
floors both sides are done, painted inside and under coated outside, was not super hard, just tedious and dirty.
seat is fixed, found a place that sells both connectors and bought enough to do two seats
still waiting on parts from tpis(stands for “that place is slow”) so engine is not done
trans is done, driveshaft is done, c beam is cleaned up
need to figure out which engine/trans mounts I should use, poly?
sadly I can’t do more until I do the heater core, not going to
do the same work twice and hope heater core is good.
no progress on painter yet, one came out, took a look and quoted me 10k plus materials, that seems a lot
with rockers, front fenders, targa and quarters already stripped and sanded.
12-05-2017, 03:37 PM
#42
Seeing as the seat and carpets are already out, I grabbed my fishing headlamp, a 1/4 socket set, box end wrenches, and some old towels to lie on and got to work. Went fine until the last two bolts on the heater box, can’t even see them, found one by feeling around but will need a flexible extension to have a ghost of a chance at getting it, have not found the other
yet and am looking for pictures of the removable half of the heater box so I know wth it is! So far one hour spent working.
yet and am looking for pictures of the removable half of the heater box so I know wth it is! So far one hour spent working.
12-05-2017, 05:29 PM
#43
Race Director
Make sure that you CORRECTLY torque the bolts for the C bean that joins the transmission tailshaft area to the differential. The torque on those bolts are SPECIFIC to prevent damaging the housing and causing leaks.
Yes.,..removing the outer half to the hear core box can be a bit challenging. long extensions and swivel sockets is what I use....along with some strip caulk on the socket so the screw stays stuck to the socket when I am pulling it out and does not all into the abyss.
DUB
Yes.,..removing the outer half to the hear core box can be a bit challenging. long extensions and swivel sockets is what I use....along with some strip caulk on the socket so the screw stays stuck to the socket when I am pulling it out and does not all into the abyss.
DUB
12-07-2017, 08:37 PM
#44
Well the heater core is out, that is the good news.
there was no clip connecting the door to the rod,
‘heater core had been replaced before, looks like it was horsed in,
‘one of the pipes was leaking where it connects to the body of the core.
it took me less than 2 hours to remove everything but the top 2 bolts,
‘tried for a couple more on those two, gave up and ordered flexible extensions.
one hour later it was out so 5 hours or so. I feel I could do it much faster now that i
know where everything is and what tools will work.
reassembly might be tougher, we will see.
not sure why the PO sealed the heater core case with black rtv, sure didn’t stop
it from leaking.
still waiting on heads then motor is done.
need to get some of these parts installed on the car so there is room in the garage to work more on the body
and pester dub with more questions!
there was no clip connecting the door to the rod,
‘heater core had been replaced before, looks like it was horsed in,
‘one of the pipes was leaking where it connects to the body of the core.
it took me less than 2 hours to remove everything but the top 2 bolts,
‘tried for a couple more on those two, gave up and ordered flexible extensions.
one hour later it was out so 5 hours or so. I feel I could do it much faster now that i
know where everything is and what tools will work.
reassembly might be tougher, we will see.
not sure why the PO sealed the heater core case with black rtv, sure didn’t stop
it from leaking.
still waiting on heads then motor is done.
need to get some of these parts installed on the car so there is room in the garage to work more on the body
and pester dub with more questions!
12-08-2017, 05:15 PM
#45
Race Director
For what this is worth:
I do know I would NOT use RTV where the outer housing is attached to the housing that is still on the firewall. It is NOT needed.
DUB
I do know I would NOT use RTV where the outer housing is attached to the housing that is still on the firewall. It is NOT needed.
DUB
12-11-2017, 09:27 AM
#46
Well work has been keeping me hopping, this time of year is super busy in my line of work.
things I learned recently, first not all heater cores are made right, bought one off of a forum member
and the tubes are 3/4 of an inch to long meaning I would need to bend the crap out of it to get it to seat right.
not going to do that and find out it leaks and have to do it all again. Ordered another core and we will see how this one is.
currently working on the drivers side trying to do some insulation and heat shielding while I wait on the heater core.
stripped screws are a problem especially on the console side panels.
heads have still not arrived, I have everything else for the motor. Further investigation shows me the radiator and
old heater core had some form of stop leak used, old rad has a lot of crap in it. Not going to put a new engine/trans
in and run the old rad so it needs replaced, any recommendations as re radiator? Will a stock water pump cut it
or do I need better in hot and humid Florida?
things I learned recently, first not all heater cores are made right, bought one off of a forum member
and the tubes are 3/4 of an inch to long meaning I would need to bend the crap out of it to get it to seat right.
not going to do that and find out it leaks and have to do it all again. Ordered another core and we will see how this one is.
currently working on the drivers side trying to do some insulation and heat shielding while I wait on the heater core.
stripped screws are a problem especially on the console side panels.
heads have still not arrived, I have everything else for the motor. Further investigation shows me the radiator and
old heater core had some form of stop leak used, old rad has a lot of crap in it. Not going to put a new engine/trans
in and run the old rad so it needs replaced, any recommendations as re radiator? Will a stock water pump cut it
or do I need better in hot and humid Florida?
12-11-2017, 06:28 PM
#47
Race Director
Water pump is fine and not needing to be changed out. AS for the radiator...take it to a radiator shop and they can take it apart and clean it and with put new plastic tanks on it due ot that is what normally cracks and goes bad in time. If you are wanting to buy a new radiator.....check through your radiator shop...because my radiator shop sold me a radiator with a lifetime warranty on a radiator and when it went bad in roughly 2 years (plastic tank cracked)..i got a new one for free. So check with them and see if they offer radiators like that.
DUB
DUB
12-12-2017, 09:04 PM
#48
Well another update, heads came and motor is about done, converter came and so I will be ready to put some
things back on the car soon.
however, I am stumped on the heater core, bought one off this forum, does not fit,
bought one from 1aauto, doesn’t fit,
bought one from o’reillys, same.
installed the old one in 30 seconds so it ain’t me, which was what I was thinking.
i don’t like aluminum heater cores, I especially don’t like people selling me a core and
telling me it is copper like the original and sending me an aluminum one.
where can I buy a good quality core that will install without bending the crap out of it(which I won’t do)??
things back on the car soon.
however, I am stumped on the heater core, bought one off this forum, does not fit,
bought one from 1aauto, doesn’t fit,
bought one from o’reillys, same.
installed the old one in 30 seconds so it ain’t me, which was what I was thinking.
i don’t like aluminum heater cores, I especially don’t like people selling me a core and
telling me it is copper like the original and sending me an aluminum one.
where can I buy a good quality core that will install without bending the crap out of it(which I won’t do)??
12-13-2017, 05:39 PM
#49
Race Director
Not knowing where you live due to your Public Profile is not filled out with at least the city you live in...I cannot say.
I wrote to call a radiator repair shop....or try WILLCOX, ECKLERS, MID-AMERICA, CORVETTE CENTRAL, ZIP PRODUCTS.
DUB
I wrote to call a radiator repair shop....or try WILLCOX, ECKLERS, MID-AMERICA, CORVETTE CENTRAL, ZIP PRODUCTS.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 12-13-2017 at 05:43 PM.
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Matt Pegis (12-13-2017)
12-13-2017, 11:30 PM
#50
I am in Sarasota FL
i did not have much luck with online vendors, they are selling aluminum stuff.
however I did have some unexpected luck at a local radiator shop, I went there hoping he could rebuild my core.
he made a couple of calls and found me a real GM one for 75, should be here Monday.
fingers crossed it isn’t aluminum!
so while I am waiting, I started putting the drivers side back together.
i wasn’t planning on doing a lot to the interior but there were surprises lurking, hopefully back
to body stuff and trying to find a painter soon, I have spent enough time under the dash!
i did not have much luck with online vendors, they are selling aluminum stuff.
however I did have some unexpected luck at a local radiator shop, I went there hoping he could rebuild my core.
he made a couple of calls and found me a real GM one for 75, should be here Monday.
fingers crossed it isn’t aluminum!
so while I am waiting, I started putting the drivers side back together.
i wasn’t planning on doing a lot to the interior but there were surprises lurking, hopefully back
to body stuff and trying to find a painter soon, I have spent enough time under the dash!
If I can find them reasonably, I will replace the console side panels, if not they will take some fixing.What kind of adhesive is appropriate for putting the carpet back in?
12-14-2017, 05:19 PM
#51
Race Director
Glad that you had luck in finding a heater core. I do know that copper/brass heater cores are still available.
Even if you get this heater core....do not be surprised that you might go back and visit the radiator shop...so they can re position the tubes to get it to fix your heater box correctly.
DUB
Even if you get this heater core....do not be surprised that you might go back and visit the radiator shop...so they can re position the tubes to get it to fix your heater box correctly.
DUB
01-21-2018, 12:41 PM
#52
Large update
Finally another update, found a painter, engine is done, trans is done, found a more suitable gear but have not swapped it in yet. Car is at painters and I am working on figuring out the jigsaw puzzle that is the front accessories. A schematic would sure help if anyone has an exploded view of the front accessories. What would be useful is knowing where the studs go, I have six studs, 4 short black ones and two longer silver ones. The shop that did the motor did not keep them organized as I had them so I got back A large box full of bolts. I took pictures before tear down so I know where things go,
just not which fasteners go where. I ordered a fsm but it won’t be here for at least a week. I suspect some studs go on water pump but I’m old so my memory is foggy on a tear down I did months ago.
things I learned over the holidays:
this years flu sucks big time, avoid if possible
there are more colors to choose from then I believed, I think silver but exact color tbd
31 year old plastic breaks if you look at it wrong....
matt
just not which fasteners go where. I ordered a fsm but it won’t be here for at least a week. I suspect some studs go on water pump but I’m old so my memory is foggy on a tear down I did months ago.
things I learned over the holidays:
this years flu sucks big time, avoid if possible
there are more colors to choose from then I believed, I think silver but exact color tbd
31 year old plastic breaks if you look at it wrong....
matt
01-21-2018, 05:53 PM
#53
Race Director
Photos of these studs would be helpful and also put something like a quarter or a dime beside them to provide some scale to them.
On a 1987 Corvette bolts were used to hold the pulley on the water pump and not studs.
There are fasteners that were used that I call 'stud bolts'. where it is a bolt but has a hex portion in the middle of it and a stud coming off form that.
DUB
On a 1987 Corvette bolts were used to hold the pulley on the water pump and not studs.
There are fasteners that were used that I call 'stud bolts'. where it is a bolt but has a hex portion in the middle of it and a stud coming off form that.
DUB
01-25-2018, 05:34 PM
#55
Race Director
Come on.....you have to do better than that. If I can not clearly see the bolts and the heads ..I am somewhat lost.
Place them on cardboard and put them in their own section and draw a square around them and number it...that way I can reply to that numbered section.
I DO KNOW...that the THREE STUD BOLTS under your FIRST ROD in the photo are for the exhaust manifolds. THEN the 9 BOLTS under them to the left are ALSO exhaust manifold bolts.
THEN above those 9 bolts to the left. The two long stud bolts are for your right side of your water pump. The fiorst one ionthat group of three...I am lost on that one for right now.
I BELIEVE the TWO BOLTS to the left of the 9 BOLTS are the LEFT SIDE water pump bolts.
THE more information you can give me about the bolts and how they look helps.
The same goes for the rods...Being able to see the ends well helps due to some of these rods have unique ends.
DUB
Place them on cardboard and put them in their own section and draw a square around them and number it...that way I can reply to that numbered section.
I DO KNOW...that the THREE STUD BOLTS under your FIRST ROD in the photo are for the exhaust manifolds. THEN the 9 BOLTS under them to the left are ALSO exhaust manifold bolts.
THEN above those 9 bolts to the left. The two long stud bolts are for your right side of your water pump. The fiorst one ionthat group of three...I am lost on that one for right now.
I BELIEVE the TWO BOLTS to the left of the 9 BOLTS are the LEFT SIDE water pump bolts.
THE more information you can give me about the bolts and how they look helps.
The same goes for the rods...Being able to see the ends well helps due to some of these rods have unique ends.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 01-25-2018 at 05:35 PM.
01-26-2018, 03:26 PM
#56
Better pictures
Here are some more organized shots, ordered a fsm that came yesterday, totally useless xeroxed copy, could not
make out much and sent it back and ordered another hopefully original one.
make out much and sent it back and ordered another hopefully original one.
01-26-2018, 03:33 PM
#57
I think the longest brace is for the AC bracket and the second longest for the alternator bracket.Group 5 and 6 are the troublesome ones, I do not know which stud goes where, I suspect one of them is involved with the alternator/smog pump bracket and two with the water pump/AC bracket.Another factor is that a lot of parts have been changed on the motor, Dart heads, mini ram, valve covers etc that may cause some interference and may need tweaking to fit. I plan on a smog pump delete once the front dress is sorted outAnd the brackets cleaned up.Matt
01-26-2018, 05:59 PM
#58
Race Director
Matt,
THANK YOU for getting the bolts organized so it will be easier to help you.
Section #1 is all for your exhaust manifolds. One of those stud bolts will be for your oil dip stick.
Then the other two stud bolts. One of them will go on each side so it is used to secure some of the rods you have shown which I can get to later.
Section #5 is the left side of your water pump.
Section #6: The first two stud bolts are for the right side of your water pump
Section #9: That bolt is used to hold one of the rods...but without a good photo of the intake at the front left area ( by the thermostat housing and throttle linkage)...it may not be able to be used if the intake you have does not have the threaded area for it.
Need to see a photo of the mounting bracket for your A/C compressor.
DUB
THANK YOU for getting the bolts organized so it will be easier to help you.
Section #1 is all for your exhaust manifolds. One of those stud bolts will be for your oil dip stick.
Then the other two stud bolts. One of them will go on each side so it is used to secure some of the rods you have shown which I can get to later.
Section #5 is the left side of your water pump.
Section #6: The first two stud bolts are for the right side of your water pump
Section #9: That bolt is used to hold one of the rods...but without a good photo of the intake at the front left area ( by the thermostat housing and throttle linkage)...it may not be able to be used if the intake you have does not have the threaded area for it.
Need to see a photo of the mounting bracket for your A/C compressor.
DUB
01-27-2018, 10:16 AM
#59
Progress
made some progress wi th a mechanic friend of mine last night.
the front accessories are 80% on but we ran into some snags:
1. AC bracket will need to be shaved in two places to clear the head and the valve cover.
2. The dart heads lack the upper bolt hole, the boss for the hole is there so
it will need to be drilled and tapped.
3. Alt/smog/PS/bracket also needs trimming
4. Have located 3 braces, two to go
once every bracket fits without interference, I will blast and paint them.
i will post a progress picture when my phone charges.
matt
the front accessories are 80% on but we ran into some snags:
1. AC bracket will need to be shaved in two places to clear the head and the valve cover.
2. The dart heads lack the upper bolt hole, the boss for the hole is there so
it will need to be drilled and tapped.
3. Alt/smog/PS/bracket also needs trimming
4. Have located 3 braces, two to go
once every bracket fits without interference, I will blast and paint them.
i will post a progress picture when my phone charges.
matt
01-27-2018, 04:44 PM
#60
Race Director
Which of braces do you need to find spot for???
Knowing what your A/C bracket looks like will help.
I am betting it is the long one and the one brace that has the tubular collar welded on the end of it.
DUB
Knowing what your A/C bracket looks like will help.
I am betting it is the long one and the one brace that has the tubular collar welded on the end of it.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 01-27-2018 at 04:44 PM.