Fender lip repair
12-01-2017, 04:46 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fender lip repair
Got sideswiped by a kid. Flexed the fender but didn't break anything except the paint. The car is a driver zo the paint has nicks and chips but this looks bad. I'm trying to attach 2 photos- never did photos before.
I hope they go.
I would like to put some type of filler on this, rebuild the lip and spot paint the area. I've worked with metal before but not fiberglas.
Any suggestions will help me
I hope they go.
I would like to put some type of filler on this, rebuild the lip and spot paint the area. I've worked with metal before but not fiberglas.
Any suggestions will help me
Last edited by stumpshot; 12-01-2017 at 04:52 PM.
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Jrs66vette (02-22-2018)
12-01-2017, 05:40 PM
#2
Race Director
You do not that much filler to fix that form what I can see in your photos.
I can not see any stress cracks.
Honestly it almost looks like with proper sanding and priming you might not need any filler at all. The damage area is so small where I see damage.
From what I can see the yellow paint is very thick...and would need to be feathered out and not filled in where the paint has been chipped away. Now all of my comments are subjective because if you can see something that is not in the photo. I can not comment on what I can not see...such as the underside of the lip.
Buying a quart of VPA for this would be insane. Maybe stop by a local body shop and get some filler/hardener when you are ready to apply it. I oftentimes have people stop by with a baby food jar and I will put some in it due to their repair is so small like yours.
DUB
I can not see any stress cracks.
Honestly it almost looks like with proper sanding and priming you might not need any filler at all. The damage area is so small where I see damage.
From what I can see the yellow paint is very thick...and would need to be feathered out and not filled in where the paint has been chipped away. Now all of my comments are subjective because if you can see something that is not in the photo. I can not comment on what I can not see...such as the underside of the lip.
Buying a quart of VPA for this would be insane. Maybe stop by a local body shop and get some filler/hardener when you are ready to apply it. I oftentimes have people stop by with a baby food jar and I will put some in it due to their repair is so small like yours.
DUB
12-02-2017, 05:30 PM
#4
Race Director
Roy,
I kinda doubt it...because if you do or have done bodywork on a metal bodied cars...doing this should not throw you into a 'tailspin'. This damage is really minor...compared to what I have to repair at times.
But if you are still a bit intimidated by it and just want reassurance...just reply to this thread when needing help.
DUB
I kinda doubt it...because if you do or have done bodywork on a metal bodied cars...doing this should not throw you into a 'tailspin'. This damage is really minor...compared to what I have to repair at times.
But if you are still a bit intimidated by it and just want reassurance...just reply to this thread when needing help.
DUB
12-03-2017, 10:49 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks again Dub. I've done my own paint but never tried 'blending' a paint job. My concern is how to get the topcoat to feather out and how to stop the clear without a cut line showing. I've tried a little rubbing out but I sure am not an expert.
Roy
Roy
12-03-2017, 06:12 PM
#6
Race Director
From your photo..I believe that the damage is on the right front fender....am I correct?
The only way to make it so you do not have a line showing where the clear stopped is to clear the entire front end. The front bumper would not need to be cleared...but the body will.
IF you wanted to try to hide the end of where you apply the clear....there is no good body feature line that you can use due to the top fender body line fades away when it gets back behind the tire...and transitions into where the door gap is. And with that area being on the side and kinda on the top...that blend line could be seen.
I have had to blend at that area and I can say it is a royal pain to get the clear line not to stand out. And in time....if the owner does not maintain it....it will show up sooner due to lack of polishing and keeping that line conditioned.
Keep in mind I have a really sharp eye for this kinda stuff....and what I feel is unacceptable may be just fine for other people. I can find a very very faint line that can be seen but I darn near have my eye on the panel to find it sometimes.
I use a special fade-out thinner that has been discontinued from the pant system I use but I was smart enough to buy several 5 liter containers of it. It is a really hot thinner that has a special resin in it so it can aid in biting in and melting things together....so-to-speak. So trying to tell you what to use is going to be about impossible. But I can say is that the prep where you plan on blending must be darn near perfect or it will not work and the clear can just want to roll up and not feather correctly.
DUB
The only way to make it so you do not have a line showing where the clear stopped is to clear the entire front end. The front bumper would not need to be cleared...but the body will.
IF you wanted to try to hide the end of where you apply the clear....there is no good body feature line that you can use due to the top fender body line fades away when it gets back behind the tire...and transitions into where the door gap is. And with that area being on the side and kinda on the top...that blend line could be seen.
I have had to blend at that area and I can say it is a royal pain to get the clear line not to stand out. And in time....if the owner does not maintain it....it will show up sooner due to lack of polishing and keeping that line conditioned.
Keep in mind I have a really sharp eye for this kinda stuff....and what I feel is unacceptable may be just fine for other people. I can find a very very faint line that can be seen but I darn near have my eye on the panel to find it sometimes.
I use a special fade-out thinner that has been discontinued from the pant system I use but I was smart enough to buy several 5 liter containers of it. It is a really hot thinner that has a special resin in it so it can aid in biting in and melting things together....so-to-speak. So trying to tell you what to use is going to be about impossible. But I can say is that the prep where you plan on blending must be darn near perfect or it will not work and the clear can just want to roll up and not feather correctly.
DUB
