Norm07

In the process of stripping my door panels etc on my 71 convertible. Panels except the front end appear to be SMC. From what I have been reading should I be looking at a couple coats of 2K primer followed by a couple coats of high build primer(type? Brand?) then the blocking and follow up more high build primer and blocking???? Any suggestions would be appreciated.





These were stripped using a razor blade, sandpaper and more wear and tear on my poor arms....kudos to the guys that do bodywork for a living

SB64

I AM IN THE PROCESS OF PAINTING MY 69 WITH MAJOR GUIDANCE FROM DUB. I CHOSE PPG K36 PRIMER AND THE CAR HAS 3 COATS, WET SANDING EACH COAT. PPG SEALER WILL THEN BE USED (NOT SANDABLE) AND THEN THE PPG BASE COAT. THERE ARE MANY PRODUCTS BUT THIS IS WHAT FIT MY POCKET BOOK. I HAVE BEEN ADVISED TO STICK WITH THE SAME COMPANY (PPG). IHAVE NEVER PAINTED A CAR BEFORE BUT TRYING TO LEARN AS MUCH AS I CAN FROM DUB.

RVZIO












I also advise a test panel for testing the products. Especially if you have not painted before. You see what happens in the one picture with the runs. They are easy to get away from you. Thank you Dub for all you have done to teach me over the phone.

DUB

I agree with Roger. You can use PPG K36 primer if you want to.

On SMC panels... I use an epoxy primer first and then apply a polyester primer. But the polyester primer requires a paint gun with a rather large fluid tip due to the primer is so thick and full of fillers. And there are several reason why I use a polyester primer...one of them is that in three coats...I can get a lot of primer build. ..and I like how it cures...which is much like resin... so it is stout. If I get my body work really good....I only need to prime it once. If I know I have not got teh body work quite right....I will primer, block and prime again. So it depends.

So...depending on your paint equipment and if you want to invest into this project...it is up to you.

DUB

Norm07

[QUOTE=DUB;1596423844]I agree with Roger. You can use PPG K36 primer if you want to.

On SMC panels... I use an epoxy primer first and then apply a polyester primer. But the polyester primer requires a paint gun with a rather large fluid tip due to the primer is so thick and full of fillers. And there are several reason why I use a polyester primer...one of them is that in three coats...I can get a lot of primer build. ..and I like how it cures...which is much like resin... so it is stout. If I get my body work really good....I only need to prime it once. If I know I have not got teh body work quite right....I will primer, block and prime again. So it depends.

So...depending on your paint equipment and if you want to invest into this project...it is up to you.

DUB

DUB......again...thanks for your input...
So the epoxy primer is a regular 2K primer...2 coats?

Then to confirm, the polyester for the blocking? It's my understanding that you can build the polyester a fair bit as it does not shrink?

Do you shoot the door jambs and the insides of the door with the polyester?

When you say you get the bodywork really good and only prime one I would assume this is only one coat of the polyester?

I have been looking at purchasing a HVLP gun specifically for primer, do you think a 1.8mm tip would work or would you have to go larger for the polyester? Any gun preferences? I have been researching the Devilbiss GFG670 for my base coat clear coat. Guys seem to like it and I can live with the price ($320).

I am still deciding on a brand of paint...the supplier I have been getting product so far carries Transtar...I have also looked at the Sherwin Williams 7000 system.

As far as budget goes...I don't have a bucket of cash but I think spending some money on the paint and the associated equipment will pay off in the long run.

Thanks again...Steve

Norm07

Rvzio.....thanks for this picture....I have nightmares about producing runs like this....



I too have not done a car before but have sprayed smaller items and plenty of cabinetry. I noticed you have a Transtar brand item...did you look at using Transtar for your job? Just curious...as I mentioned to Dub my supplier is pushing Transtar.

Did you have to use the sealer? I would assume this is after blocking?

Thanks again for your help....Steve

SB64

Hi Steve, I had a busted front fender that was a good candidate for me to use as a test panel. I did not do any body work to it so I just laid 1 coat of primer, then sealer, base coat, clear. After the runs I sanded everything off and did it again. I wanted to learn how to dial in the guns also. I ordered the DeVillbess GFI gun and it worked great. Listed for $528. on sale for $308.
RVZIO

Norm07

Rvzio...Do you have an exact model # for that gun?? Did a check and there is this one for $308....

DeVilbiss GTI620G GTI Millennium HVLP Spray Gun + 3 different tips.

looks like you gotta be real careful as the model numbers are close but the prices vary alot.

Steve

SB64

Yea Steve it is the DeVillbess GTI 620. On Ebay from JB Tools. Also has the 900cc cup which will allow you to do the whole car before filling again. Just something I wanted. Here is a picture.

RVZIO

Norm07

Rvzio

Sounds good.......For your info...

Amazon Canada $549 (Canadian dollars)

JB Tools $289, (about $360 Canadian dollars)

Thanks for the info
Steve

DUB

Steve,
I know my paint gun that I have that shoots gelcoat and the polyester primer has a much larger tip. I believe it is a 2.2 mm or a 2.4 mm

I will not write with 100% certainty that the 1.8mm would not work...but ...that is when you have to test it.

I have shot Transtar and it is good stuff. I have also shot the SW that you mentioned and I really did not like it and that is how the basecoat color did not cure and flash off like what I have been accustomed to. And this is mainly regarding any 'de-nibbing' that may be needed BEFORE the clearcoat is applied. DID it stick and preform...YES IT DID...because that paint was used on Nitro Funny car I painted in a camouflage effect and it never delamianted.

DUB

Dave Tracy

I used PPG for my project including DPLF epoxy primer and also DPLV epoxy primer. The DPLF is not sandable and the DPLV can be sanded. I preferred working with the DPLV and it has some leveling properties. My finish coats were single stage DCC urethane in white. My $.02.

SB64

Thank Dave for that info. I might check out the DPLV for the car. I did use the DPLF on the test piece which as you said is not sandable. Going with 2 stage black. Everything just about ready to shoot!
Thank you
RVZIO

Norm07

I know my paint gun that I have that shoots gelcoat and the polyester primer has a much larger tip. I believe it is a 2.2 mm or a 2.4 mm

I know I will use a separate primer gun, I have looked at a Polyester specific gun with a 2.5 mm tip that according to reviews will also do the thinner epoxy.

I will not write with 100% certainty that the 1.8mm would not work...but ...that is when you have to test it.

I have shot Transtar and it is good stuff. I have also shot the SW that you mentioned and I really did not like it and that is how the basecoat color did not cure and flash off like what I have been accustomed to. And this is mainly regarding any 'de-nibbing' that may be needed BEFORE the clearcoat is applied. DID it stick and preform...YES IT DID...because that paint was used on Nitro Funny car I painted in a camouflage effect and it never delamianted.

DUB[/QUOTE]

The Transtar supplier I have been dealing with s a great resource not only for supplies but for advice and referrals to other Transtar users in the area willing to offer advice to the "painting newbie" . The help is invaluable. I'm glad to hear you say you like the Transtar product.

I will be using a two stage Ontario Orange metallic and I am going to now do some test shoots (advice of supplier) to determine a undercoat colour, white gray or black. Would you have a preference???

Thanks Steve

DUB

For what it is worth:

I would use what you have and not worry about getting the epoxy that is 'sandable'. The reason is...if you shoot the epoxy and get few nibs...you can let it flash and then shoot your basecoat. If you get a coat of your black basecoat on it...you are compliant in getting the basecoat on it in the 'window' of time it is wanting. And if you have nib or two you want to scuff out before you go further in the paint job...you can do that without worrying to much. But as always...shoot a test panel and see what I am saying is true. Because even though they say it is not meant to be sanded...I agree....but it all depends on HOW you sand it. It is all about technique.


You will really want to shoot test panel with that gun with a 2.5mm tip because shooting thin epoxy out of it can be done but you will really need to get the gun adjusted correctly.


I do not have any preference in what color undercoat to use in this scenario. I shoot 'spray out cards' that I get from NEXA that are black and white checkered cards. When I shoot my basecoat color and I can totally hide the black and white checkers. I know that that number of coats will give me full color saturation. So it would not matter if it was white, grey or black under it. And this is because I am shooting an entire car.

When I do repairs on current facotry pant jobs. THAT is a completely different scenario because I have to match to what the factory shot...and the color of the undercoat DOES make a HUGE difference because a lot of the new current paints are so translucent in there color...the undercoat DOES effect how the color looks because you can actually see through it.

DUB

Norm07

Thanks Dub....Good info...I have lots to think about...