leadfoot4

My C-5's front fascia is showing some signs of age, a few scuffs and stone chips, and I'm considering the purchase of a rear fascia that has an integral spoiler, as being marketed by a supporting vendor to this site. This project will require some paint work.

I've painted several cars in the past, but those were done in the "old days", using either acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer. I was reading one of the editorial pages on the most recent 'Hemmings Muscle Machines' magazine, and the author of the article was lamenting on how the new paints, with their different "active ingredients", are eliminating the ability of the DIYer to paint in his/her garage, from a safety perspective.

I understand his concerns, but I'm not going to paint the entire car, just the two fascias. Is this something that can be done at home, safely, or should I send the parts out to a competent body shop, to have the work done. On a side note, I'm also a little concerned about the costs of all the materials that I might have to buy, besides the basecoat, that a shop might already have a quantity on hand, for normal operations.

What do you all think?

DUB

I always suggest that ALL precautions and any safety concerns are taken if a person is going to paint something at there house.

What a person chooses to do with that information is up to them. So I will not tell you that it is acceptable due to I have no clue on your set-up and IF you are taking the needed precautions to protect yourself and your surroundings.

Now have many people done what you want to do. I am sure that they have. But not knowing how you may react to the chemicals when you are exposed to them is something entirely different. THAT is where the problem can come into play. So me telling you that it is okay is something I can not do....because I do not know if you only have one lung or prone to fainting/dizzy spells or are sensitive to some of the chemicals used in paint.

SO...it is up to you on how well you want to protect yourself...because with you painting "just the bumpers"...does not mean much at all when it comes to exposure to chemicals that your body may not like.

As for how safe it will be to do at your home...I have no clue and it is also up to you to figure out if you can paint in an environment that will not cause problems.

I often times get paid to go so someones house to look at something that someone is doing at their house and when I walk into the are they are painting in...there is an OPEN FLAME on a hot water heater...or a salamander kerosene heater running and I walk out.

The cost materials are what they are. Hopefully IF you send them to a body shop...I HOPE that they actually spend the time to PROPERLY PREP the bumpers so all applied products will adhere. So many 'production shops' do not prep them correctly and in time...the paint can pop off due ot they did not prep the factory primer correctly if it was applied on the bumpers when you got them. IF the bumper is raw/un-primed urethane...then the process is entirely different due to how 'touchy' urethane can be IF not handled correctly and using the CORRECT products to prep it. NO SOLVENT BASED products should be used on RAW/UN-PRIMED urethane during its initial prep. The correct products are water based. Solvent based products can cause the urethane to swell.

It is like how it is written on automotive paint products. Or something to the effect of this. "These products are designed to be used and applied by properly trained personnel using specific equipment under controlled conditions".

DUB

leadfoot4

Thanks for the input, "DUB". I understand your concerns. I have no open flames anywhere near my garage, with average, but unfiltered ventilation.

With respect to personal safety equipment, I previously worked in the precision optics industry, primarily in the vacuum coating of finished lenses. On a regular basis, we had to clean out the residue from our chambers, which would then become hazardous dust, as we sanded the insides of the chambers. I still have a couple of the NIOSH approved dust masks from those days. If not adequate for the current chemicals in paints, I could most likely purchase the appropriate cartridges for the mask.

Overall, I was just trying to get an idea of how big a job this would morph into. Applying acrylics was a little simpler.



BTW, how's the Lingenfelter car project coming?

DUB

Depending on the color of the car...and IF you take the time to shoot a test panel to verify that the color that is mixed for you is close enough to make you happy (because it can be so far off it will need to be tinted)....and obtaining the CORRECT cartridges for the chemicals in the paint you use....and all the other variables....this CAN turn into a major job....and then again....it may not.

Shooting in an environment that does not allow you to knwo that the air is filtered....you can be asking for NUMEROUS problems. Not saying that you will have problems...but there is no way to guarantee that a mosquito does not fly into your clearcoat.

I know that is not a definitive answer...but when doing what you are wanting to do...it is hard to be able to be 100% certain that all will go as planned.

The Lingenfelter car is still in process and I have been compiling a lot of photos of it along with other jobs I am working on. It has been rather slow going due to the very cold temps and it has gotten literally to a snails pace. This time of year I really hate because things take so much longer to get done in regards to body work. Turning on heat lamps and my infra-red heater so I can get panels to temp and then warm up the VPA and resins and all that. It gets to be quite taxing and I am ready for spring time when it is at least 60 degrees...then I can get really into project full steam. Heck..I would be happy with 50 degrees for sometime...but ...that is just not how this winter has a been here.

DUB

leadfoot4

Yeah, I guess it was far easier to shoot acrylic lacquer, because if the &^%#!! mosquito landed in the topcoat, you could just wet sand it out, and blow another coat on, in short order. Maybe I'll just farm out the job.....

I know what you mean, about the weather. Yes, I live in the snow belt, and have been here most of my life, and sort of expect the associated cold. BUT, it was 9 freaking degrees here, yesterday, and that was the raw air temperature. Add in the effect of the wind, and the temp was in effect, about -10*. I'm getting too old for this crap!!

Dave Tracy

My $.02. I read with concern your previous use of approved dust masks. This new stuff is nasty and a dust mask will not protect you from the chemical vapors. You will need at least organic vapor mask or a supplied air source. Please be careful.

DUB

And this si why KNWOING wht is inthte paint...will let YOU knwo what type of canister to purchase to stop teh chemcials from geting to you.

Also...any exposed skin is susceptible to absorbing in the chemicals/vapors.

SO just because you have the correct paint respirator on with the correct canisters in it...BUT...when oyu go and paint the parts you are wearing shorts and 'flip-flops' and NO shirt. Do not think that you are helping yourself by wearing the respirator....because you are not. All that exposed skin is NOT GOOD!

This is the FOURTH STICKY in the paint and body section.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ocyanates.html

DUB