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Well after messing around for quite a while trying to fit the L88 hood it became apparent that( for me at least) I needed to separate the hood frame from the skin and realign everything. I didn't want to have to slot the hinges and or be at the limit of my adjustment window right out of the gate. So here we go.
After separating the frame I ground away all the old adhesive and cleaned up the edges. I then aligned the frame in the car to as close to the center of the hing holes as I could and latched it in place. I had to use a piece of angle to prop up the nose area so it wouldn't droop down too far and then not make contact with the skin.
Now I placed the skin on the frame and centered it in the window and evening out all the gaps. I will still need to perfect the gaps a bit after but, its a lot better now than before.
I decided to use super glue and glue pieces of paint stir sticks around the outside edges of the skin as guides to align the height of the skit to the hood surround. This worked really well and is easy to just pop them off and sand off the residue. Better than filling holes and the like.
After all the fitting and aligning it was time to bond the skin in place. I first spread the compound into the bonding areas using a good bit of pressure using a putty knife. Then I applied a nice heavy bead of adhesive around the frame to fill the inevitable gaps.
So now I went and enlisted some help from my Wife to place the skin on the frame. I then aligned everything again and placed anything I could find with so weight around the edges to hold things down and in place.
Over all I am happy with things now and am at a place where I can perfect the gaps on the hood and move on.
Thanks for the complement. I really get a lot out of researching how to do this stuff myself so, I felt it would be paying it forward to show my process. I am not a pro and all of this is my first time so please take that into consideration before you try to repeat any of this on your project but, hopefully it gives you another perspective.
Last edited by Willforce71; 11-08-2018 at 03:21 PM.
Just finished spraying 2 coats of Epoxy Primer. May be all I get done for the rest of the winter unless I decide to spring for a better heater. I think the next step will be Slick Sand or several more coats of Epoxy, blocking between each? There are a few spots I need to fill a bit more that I missed but overall it's looking good. Few razor Blade gouges in the deck that I missed too.
Not knowing the properties of the epoxy you used. When I epoxy prime a car like yours I then will allow it to flash and then put on the polyester primer so I do not have to sand the epoxy to obtain adhesion. It is done chemically instead of mechanically.
As for the small glitches and gouges. You may be surprised on what you can do with the polyester primer in regards to filling these minor imperfections in.
Thanks for the heads up DUB. I am using SPI Epoxy Primer and they say to wait at least 48 hours before spraying Polyester. I try to get it sprayed before the 7 day window they give expires.
Thanks for the heads up DUB. I am using SPI Epoxy Primer and they say to wait at least 48 hours before spraying Polyester. I try to get it sprayed before the 7 day window they give expires.
Ummm...7 day window for what? Surely you can't leave it that long and prime over it without sanding?
Yep, SPI says between 48 hours and 7 days no sanding required. I will knock the shine off though.
I know it has everything to do with the chemistry of the product and the 'open window' that they have designed into this primer.
So chemical adhesion is still quite possible..... BUT...I am 'old school' and I would do like you plan on and at least get some type of scuff on the finish to dull it out.
I know 'porchdog' here on the forum is a MASTER of SPI products and I would PM him due to he has used it for a LONG TIME an may know many of the 'in's and out's' about it.
FOR WHAT THIS MAY BE WORTH:
Many times a person may read in the product information bulletin about a product they are spraying or applying on a car and it may have an 'unlimited window'. Meaning you can spray it and come back a month later and apply something on it like clear without any scuffing..
BUT...one thing to ALWAYS keep in mind. And this comes from me working on RAW urethane bumpers. Is the longer a panel is prepped and left OPEN or a product is allowed to set on a panel and left 'OPEN'...the more microscopic surface contaminants and moisture can get onto and into it and effect adhesion at that surface. SO...just keep that in mind and also consider the product you are worried about if you have any concerns about it at all.
the spi epoxy window is 7 days at 70 degrees . 3-4 days is safe but like dub i still scuff it good after that. by scuffing it with red scotchbrite you open it up and the tail solvent help with adhesion.
the spi epoxy window is 7 days at 70 degrees . 3-4 days is safe but like dub i still scuff it good after that. by scuffing it with red scotchbrite you open it up and the tail solvent help with adhesion.
Thanks Guys for the recommendations. I plan to hit it with Scotchbrite as you described before I hit it with the Slicksand. I should be shooting everything by Friday which would be the 6th day and my garage is being heated to a fairly stable 68-72 degrees.
Just watch out for the fibers from the red Scotch-brite pads. They do a great job but make sure you really blow off the car and do what you can so those darn fibers do not get into you primer.
You work way faster than me though, Ha! I finished up body work with VPA and getting the last of the paint off with razor blades and 80 grit. Also bought the SPI epoxy primer and their 2K regular build, waiting for good weather, unusually early cold in Louisiana lately. I thought the SPI technical manual and their The Perfect Paint Job was a great writeup. I made a note too for the red scotchbrite scuff, Thanks Porchdog!
Much thanks to Dub, Porchdog and the rest for the very informative info on this site!
Well I was able to get the Slicksand shot this afternoon. Took a gallon and half to do two good coats. I am happy with the way things turned out. I'll post some pictures tomorrow when I get time.
Oh and for anyone out there who is looking for a good affordable gun for shooting Polyester primer or Gelcoat go get a Iwata Gunsa 3.0. It worked great.
11-04-2018, 06:38 PM
L88 Hood Alingment
